Dorman

danced around the place with my new best friend Cuprinol 5star Next time promise to

I have 2 listers l am rebuilding with the proposal to place one in a tug shell some time in the future which will be built around it. I have an offer on a remote 1.2 blackstone type gearbox--this is my quandary. The shell l would like we feel needs to have limited draught due to our experiences with the current deep draught boat. What would the min prop be reasonably on a 1.2 gbox with this lister 1200rpm max? My thoughts would be to go 1.1 with shallow draught boat--or am l wrong? Can the gearbox internals be changed as this is a good offer. Cheers Simon

Passed you a few weeks ago with your "best friend" on the front deck. Nobody visible--havent plucked up the courage to speak to forum members yet when seen out and about--except Victoria at Banbury but stayed icognito

Ive tried a few options on our engine. The original was very loud and when l looked in it it was a 1/1/2" Midland Chandler unit with a considerable amount of the baffles removed. I changed it to a 2" straight through silencer from IMS in Cossington Leicestershire a FP 050-£70 cash. This is their least silenced unit and a bit quiet for me but a nice roar when reving (4.5 litre Dorman 3 cylinder.)Put Put on tick over bit weak. Didnt you use to be able to get a silencer with flanged end to "tune" the noise by removing baffles to your preference-or did l dream it?? Simon PS Just picked up 2 CE2 listers, one twin flywheels so looking at your blog for ideas

Thats very useful and makes complete sense-thanks

Could our boat need rebalasting? After groundings and such like sometimes in the deepest? parts of the Oxford canal we filled up the bow water tank to the max and moved all the heavy stuff we could to the front well of the boat. This did help with stern now about 2" under water when stationary but now the gas locker is flooded. The engine is about 2/3rds of the way down the boat from the front and is obviously heavy Dorman 3AL with 6 batteries along one side including a 3 KW inverter and loads of steel on the other to balance and some under the kitchen cupboards at the front as l couldnt get enough in the engine room floor. I think now a rethink is required to help with the subsequent dead handling. The centre rope which was fairly close to the pivot point now seems very hard to pull in and due to moving all the stern balast she kicks out alarmingly even on tick over in reverse at very low speed when trying to moor at locks. (Always a slight problem) My first impression is to move the domestic battery bank to the other side and try and remove as much steel on that side to bring up the whole boat as much as possible--probably quite a bit of the 200kgs or so lve put in. Check the boat level, fill the water tank and then rebalast the stern to allow the prop to push against something but higher to stop grounding-say about 1" below the water line--the draft is 30" or so with a 24" prop. Anybody had a similiar problem--l know the canals are low this year but she peforms lovely on the Avon. On some corners of the Oxford she refused to turn with red faces allround. We are moored on the Thames for a month and plenty of time to mess about. For best handling does the weight have to be well distributed throughout the boat?? Cheers Simon

Welcome indeed--from somebody who restored an Ormelite GRP in the garden over 5 years while the kids where toddlers--our first boat with an inboard engine-any advise on osmosis treatment-im yr man

I always direct it at the wall--hence why lm questioning its suitabilty

Ive finally losing patience with my tunnel light! It uses a projecter bulb ----24v 150w OEM Projector or Disco Bulb A1/216 FCS G6.35or bulb There is a big fat cable to the light from the fuse board which nevers get warm but when ever we turn on the light l have to fiddle with the bulb (using tissue paper) to get it work and the pronges seem to discolour and need cleaning up ever so often. It sometimes seem to lose contact with its ceramic holder in tunnels causing the kids to laugh but me panic as l rush down the boat. Ive now stripped it all down and found a rather frazzled live feed connector from the fat cable to the thin one that feeds the bulb which could be the wire overheating? Its 24volt bulb but is it really suitable for use eg AC24-DC24 boat electrics? The light fitting suits the boat and is well bolted down on a purpose made pole so lm now thinking of changing the bulb and bulb holder to a Searolf unit as below;- Hi Simon, We don't have a direct replacement bayonet bulb with that brilliance, but we do have this bulb http://searolf.com/page35.html. The Cool White version is equivalent in light output to an 80 watt bulb, but only draws 3.5 watts approximately of power. If it will fit your tunnel light we have adaptors and bulb holders here http://searolf.com/page19.html For your interior cabin lighting we have many options http://searolf.com/page6.html , B22 Bus Bulbs, LED Bulbs, Light Bars, and the G4, MR11 and MR16 halogen replacements are all available to suit 24volt systems. Regards, Angie SEAROLF LED Ltd www.searolf.com Tel. 05602 243142 Does anyone think the bulb will be good enough or should l cutback the old connections which could have caused my problems and put a new projector bulb in the existing set up and hope for the best??? What about another sort of set up which can take vibrations etc??? I get scarred in damp dark places and got to do the Netherton in 2 weeks Thanks you all. Simon

Clicky New schematic following advice 1

How did you do that?

How odd it opens for me. Can l insert a word document with schematic into this text? Try this? http://www3.snapfish.co.uk/snapfishuk/slid...AME=snapfishuk/

Anyone following my recent posts know l had a few problems with charging and batteries. The Alternator is being rewound and rebuilt as found wanting on output and very tired. After taking out all batteries and checking conns, leads etc one battery has a poor condition positive post with a faulty connection to the battery itself--never knew that could happen!!!! Very hard to check in situ so worth having them checked out. This particular post recieved alternator and land line charge so no wonder the system was failing and the inverter lasted a few minutes Anyway many thanks to everbody for their input and hopefully all will be well now. While checking everything out l now have a diagram of the system and wondered if anyone could recommend improvements or see faults in the current set up (puts on hat and climbs into shelter). Visit My Website I am upgrading alternator and VSR leads. Can battery leads be too thick for mains charging from one bank to another via connections if only on one bank?? PS Anyone going to Braunston this weekend? Simon Edit for smelling

[After 10 years on a more modern boat I felt the need for a change and I fell in love with the thought of the old engine, since buying the new boat i've realised there are many advantages to a trad design for me, the one advantage i can't explain, is that calming feeling of sitting in the back cabin looking out the back doors, a very chilled place to sit. Perhaps I have cave men in my ancestry Paul Yipee somone else

Thanks will call them on Tuesday to sound tham out Just a thought but can you damage an alternator by a landline charger (35 amps) when charging batteries. The connection on my boat is fixed via the isolators )otherwise it could not get to both banks) and only switches on starter motor or boat services??

Thanks for that David, Called today and seem on the ball--even can get then rewound--great help cheers See how the repair goes, thanks for the offer got another similiar but needs serious mods to be crank driven.

When we had our last pump out on Maximus (now potti on Amazon) we always used the free pump-out below Evesham past Sankey Marine before the ferry. About 15 mins from the Town Park. It normally worked but no rubbish collection which is at the end of the moorings at Evesham. By the way there is a water point at Evesham--difficult to see--Happy Boating

Have discovered the alternator needs looking at. Can anybody recommend workshop in West Mids--this is the unit Alternator - 24 Volt x 90Amp - FV1068364 / PRC5253 24 Volt x 90Amp FV1068364 / PRC5253 Internet Stock No 7899 Price £725.00 ( £851.88 Inc 17.5 % VAT ) QTY in Stock : 1 Nato Stock No 2920997338608 DMC 7BD List All Oem Part No. FV1068364 / PRC5253 Stock Type MOD Surplus

Thanks for that l am going to the boat tomorrow to check out the exact model no etc Thanks Paul Will check all the stuff l had from Tony and you tomorrow to see how the alternator has been set up-will report back. simon

Can anybody recommend an electrical engineer that could test the FFR alternator and repair in West Mids??

Thats how we tend to use it to--penalty of vintage engines l'm afraid take a while to heat up and thermostat 70oC Thats the one