Smaller Calorifier?

[BD3Bill]

Hi Pete

Firstly many thanks again for hooking me up with this system.

 

I have fitted a manual on/off switch at the engine panel and I switch off the pump when we have been cruising for a couple of hours and give it a boost when we are nearing our stopover.

 

I shall just leave it all alone as it is then.

 

It is a very big engine that BD3 and takes a while to heat up. Running a good bit cleaner though since I changed the stat !

 

I have tried adjusting the TMV up to the 50/60 degree level already , & shall stick to that now you have confirmed.

 

Yes I like to keep things simple too. I don't think it's needed, just checking.

 

Cheers Bill

[Laurie Booth]

I have a 12ltr califier and it takes 20 mins running the engine to get very hot. This is enough for two people to have showers.

Edited August 25, 2013 by Laurie.Booth

[BD3Bill]

Well it was a while ago that I started this thread was't it?

 

So to update…..

 

A couple of weeks ago I was doing the periodic service checks and topped up the engine coolant header tank, clumsily, filled it to the brim.

Well thought I, no worries, when engine warms up it will bubble out into the catch bucket…… which it did. ( No messy bilges here thanks!)

 

However the other effect, it appears, is that the calorifier warms up quicker! And gets to a higher temperature too.

 

On closer examination I found there is a small ¼" pipe from the header to the thermostat housing. Now this pipe enters the header above ¾ of the way up it.

I had been maintaining the header level below this & importantly filling the tank seems to have improved circulation before running temp is reached.

 

Strangely though once the calorifier is up to 78 C ( higher than before, 65 C at the most ) and the thermostat opens the keel tank is so efficient that the calorifier temp then starts to drop back !

 

So after 2 hours cruising I switch off the circulating pump for the heat exchanger, simples!

 

Such a simple thing after all :0)

 

The next project is a solar water heater so that when we arrive at the boat there is a full tank of hot, I will let you all know how this goes I'm sure, but a full bathroom refit is needed first…...

 

Boats eh? Can't live with em, can't live without em !!!!

[Guest]

Glad it's working well!

 

 

The TMV should come into it's own in very cold weather, allowing the engine to heat more quickly until the temp reaches the TMV setpoint, after which any further heat is siphoned off as it were to heat the calorifier.

 

Since much engine wear occurs when starting from cold, minimising the warm-up time should help reduce engine wear.

 

Now the main thermostat is sorted, maybe try adjusting the TMV set point upwards to 50-60°c to help with faster engine warmup. You can verify this by feeling the pipe going into the top of the calorifer, it should stay cold until the pipe from the engine is nearly hand hot (you can hardly keep your hand on it) beyond which the calorifier pipe soon reaches the same temp and the calorifer heats from top down.

 

BTW if cruising in a hard water area it may be good to fit a thermostat low down on the calorifier to switch off the pump when the calorifier is heated to 60-65C This is because above this temp, limescale can form in the heat exchanger and reduce it's performance. It would also help protect the TMV if it's not rated for water above this temp.

 

Would expect that the plate heat exchanger can transfer heat much better than a calorifier coil. Also adding a coil in this way would slow the engine warmup from cold, which isn't so good.

 

Might be better if the calorifier coil can be switched out, someone mentioned there's a solenoid heater valve for Fords that can be had quite cheaply:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Fiesta-KA-Puma-NEW-HEATER-CONTROL-VALVE-/180948961093

 

Once the engine has warmed up it could give the choice of boosting the calorifier from say 65°C to 82°C without causing limescale problems and so on.

 

Not sure how the valve works but with 4 pipes it looks like it simply bypasses the heater output when not energised, which would be ideal. Hopefully the valves and pipes are big enough not to reduce flow thought the plate exchanger too much.

 

Overall though I'd prefer to 'keep-it-simple' and only consider adding a calorifer coil and valve if it's really needed.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Lots of cars have the valve not very reliable in our experience leaks and failure through lack of use being the main problem

 

Peter