Rendelf Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 (edited) Hello peeps, A little add for any future readers... Though my evapo-cooler is still in its production stage (ran out of expanding foam!) I have recently acquired a small A++ chest freezer (£30) It's a standard-ish height, but half the width. This means it makes a perfect worktop when closed. I've added a thermostatic capillary switch from BimbleSolar (£5). The unit is rated at 160W, which is about double what a new unit uses. So far so good. In theory, it can pull up to 13-15A at max. However, it has an adjustable input (from min-max), which I presume means it isn't using its full rating (as it's set to min). once the temperature has been reduced to around 5 degrees, it seems to cycle around 5 minutes out of every 60. The insulation is excellent, and I can set the thermostat to 10 degrees to just keep veggies cool, if needs be. So far, haven't noticed the batteries complaining at all! Currently it's running on a 2000W inverter. I have a 200W inverter. I'm wondering if I should: a. Put the inverter by the freezer, and let it pull 12V about 15 meters through 15mm2 cables, or b. Put the inverter by the batteries, and use a 12V relay to operate it, through about 15 meters of 5mm2 cable Will I loose more energy by operating the relay constantly, or by using perhaps 10A@12V over 15M of 15mm2 cable? Edit: Just realised that all I need is a relay that is always open, and only uses power while the thermostat is operating it. Edited July 29, 2016 by Rendelf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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