Rendelf

Hello peeps, A little add for any future readers... Though my evapo-cooler is still in its production stage (ran out of expanding foam!) I have recently acquired a small A++ chest freezer (£30) It's a standard-ish height, but half the width. This means it makes a perfect worktop when closed. I've added a thermostatic capillary switch from BimbleSolar (£5). The unit is rated at 160W, which is about double what a new unit uses. So far so good. In theory, it can pull up to 13-15A at max. However, it has an adjustable input (from min-max), which I presume means it isn't using its full rating (as it's set to min). once the temperature has been reduced to around 5 degrees, it seems to cycle around 5 minutes out of every 60. The insulation is excellent, and I can set the thermostat to 10 degrees to just keep veggies cool, if needs be. So far, haven't noticed the batteries complaining at all! Currently it's running on a 2000W inverter. I have a 200W inverter. I'm wondering if I should: a. Put the inverter by the freezer, and let it pull 12V about 15 meters through 15mm2 cables, or b. Put the inverter by the batteries, and use a 12V relay to operate it, through about 15 meters of 5mm2 cable Will I loose more energy by operating the relay constantly, or by using perhaps 10A@12V over 15M of 15mm2 cable? Edit: Just realised that all I need is a relay that is always open, and only uses power while the thermostat is operating it.

Green things all round. Now that we're over the initial hurdles, I'm focussing (and learning) on safety. There is no apparent N-E point on the inverter, but I'll take a look at the manufacturer's guidelines.

Having seen the diagram, I'd stand by what I said....adding a small inverter is easy enough. The other thread coincided with what I was doing...admittedly, I hadn't given too much thought to the RCD yet. All I was unclear on was if the RCD required a separate bond to the hull, or, if the inverter was arranged to be able to use the 12V connection to the hull. Reading previous threads, there does seem to be some uncertainty on this. Ultimately, it isn't difficult to do - which was what I was saying. Perhaps I should remain quiet. I don't claim to be a genius - so asked for specific advice. Having considered it, I suppose I wouldn't want a fault load to be directed through the inverter/batteries to the hull, nor am I certain it could be. Glad I asked though!

That's really helpful, thanks.

I have a spare mag-mount if the OP wants it.

Worse than white bread?

Better than white bread...

Get a 12V LED monitor. Chromecast to that?

Why not just use the interweb to stream 'radio'?

I can never understand why peeps want a rechargeable vac, to recharge from boat batts? We've completely refurbed our boat in the last 18 months. It's been a building site. 750W Hoover Spritz...I think it was £40. I've used it to pull up wet rust, ash, scews, slag, crumbs,metal shavings, earth, copper, more rust...it's covered in bitumen and paint. Abused it. Still works just fine. Is bagless. Empty after about thirty continuous minutes. Probably only slightly bigger than a £200 Dyson.

Hi all, Have finally gotten around to servicing engine 'ole, repainting bilge, rewiring. We don't have shoreline. I want to protect the single 240 circuit with a separate RCD. Currently, it just has a 150A fuse on the 12V side. I'm unsure what to do with the earth. Do I run it straight into the inverter, and subsequently to the hull via the 12V negative? TIA

If I ever own a bar, I've always maintained that I'll have one way mirrors on the toilet doors and the opposite wall,so that punters can look at the bar while on the throne.

Just re-read your post. Sorry for rambling. Portable inverters as you describe will produce 240, as previously stated, cables feeding the 12v socket probably not up to purpose. EG: 150Watts at 240V will draw 150/240 0.6 Amps. But, the cable you're plugging your inverter into is 12V.... So, 150/12 is 12 Amps....you could risk melting the cableson the 12V system if they aren't thick enough.

I suppose the first thing to do is look at your cruising pattern, and work out what you absolutely must be able to operate when not on shore power and how often. How many days will yoube away from shore power withouy running engine, etc. Then work out how much juice your indispensable kit requires, and go from there. Power ratings in Watts are written on appliances.

Anything involving heat/cold uses lots of juice, and as above, you'll need suitable storage for things like cookers. Is the TV definitely 240, or does it have an adaptor? (Check back of TV for required input voltage) Consider a 12V LED monitor to replace if it is 240V. For now, you could put the cooler near the batteries, and run a (fused) cable if existing wiring is a problem Inverters are cheap and easy enough. Could be integrated with existing 240v system via a fusebox

That's clearly a wooden facade with the trees on the far side visible through holes...

They're probably made in China like all the others?

We have 'one way mirror' films on our windows. You get privacy with a nice view, with the added advantage that the film filters most of the UV from the sunlight, which reduces fading. They are about £20 - £30 for a boat's worth.

Thanks for doing so. I thought it was an interesting thread, and it certainly changed my mind somewhat. Food for thought.

It was olive stones... For fun!

Has it ever been any other way?

How about cycle tunnels? You could get a nice bank when cornering. Also, if connected to the cycling debate, riders could be propelled by all the hot air!