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lister jp3 cooling circuit


jimbob01

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if those more experienced than me wouldnt mind a read and maybe any comments.....?

ok.. ive got most of the bits in place to complete the cooling circuit...i think!

out from the top of the engine...to the thermostat housing@74 deg as advised from b 'eck....

then T to header tank and on to skin tank top inlet....from bottom of tank on to the jabsco...then from the jabsco to the g box oil cooler and around and back in the side of engine. also from the thermo housing a loop going to the pressure side of the jabsco...i have noticed some calcium deposits inside the cooling pipes and thought i should ad some sort of strainer in line also?...

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Sounds right except the narrower bore thermostat bypass loop should tee into the pump inlet (return from skin tank via g/box cooler) not pressure side.

 

Can I assume you are not fitting a calorifier heating coil into the bypass circuit?

 

On my installation the engine top rail hot water outlet is through the thermostat to the top of a vented header tank with a feed from the bottom of same to the skin tank inlet. This provides self bleeding since the tank is at the highest level.

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if those more experienced than me wouldnt mind a read and maybe any comments.....?

ok.. ive got most of the bits in place to complete the cooling circuit...i think!

out from the top of the engine...to the thermostat housing@74 deg as advised from b 'eck....

then T to header tank and on to skin tank top inlet....from bottom of tank on to the jabsco...then from the jabsco to the g box oil cooler and around and back in the side of engine. also from the thermo housing a loop going to the pressure side of the jabsco...i have noticed some calcium deposits inside the cooling pipes and thought i should ad some sort of strainer in line also?...

 

I have a strainer. When the impeller starts to crack up, the strainer should catch the bits before they block the thermostat. I installed it after bits of impeller blocked the spinning tell-tale (another nice thing to have).

 

And don't forget some nice brass float valves to bleed any air. And a nice brass-mounted thermometer. Brass looks good against nice shiny Mid Brunswick Green. :lol:

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ok that seems obvious now thanks by'eck

 

Your welcome. BTW having the header tank fed from near the top (just above normal coolant level) allows you to peer in and see the coolant flow, when thermostat opens at least, as below.

 

IMG_3719.jpg

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Your welcome. BTW having the header tank fed from near the top (just above normal coolant level) allows you to peer in and see the coolant flow, when thermostat opens at least, as below.

Doesn't that effectively aerate the coolant, increasing dissolved oxygen and corrosion?

 

MP.

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