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It is quite a serious suggestion this, keeping a plywood or GRP roof watertight is very difficult, doing it this way it could be allowed to float in such a way that the considerable expansion could be negated.

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Which is why it was used on buildings before 'orrible felt and stuff. Expensive though as you say.

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It is quite a serious suggestion this, keeping a plywood or GRP roof watertight is very difficult, doing it this way it could be allowed to float in such a way that the considerable expansion could be negated.

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I was thinking about a standing seam arrangement negating the need for a lot of soldering. I think in the long run I would save money on upkeep. If painted who would know unless I install a cupola disguised as a very tall pidgeon box. Maybe the weather vane would give it away. :(

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As an aside to this, anyone who has ever flown over the larger cotton mills in my part of the world may be surprised to see that most are 'flooded' with a foot or so of water, I have even overheard comments to the effect that the owners should look after their drains.

 

In fact the roofs were covered in asphalt or tar and the roof was designed to be flooded to stabilise the temperature.

 

A wet narrowboat roof, may even get a decent rice crop.

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Would it not be easer just to put a layer of f/glass over the top it will fit the contours better and be cheaper.?

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I think I may be confusing you with my misuse of "GRP". My top is plywood with a fibreglass and resin topping. Its still quite sound with a good gloss paint on it. This does require much attention to keep in good condition. As I said I was toying with the idea of copper as a complete no upkeep top. Well maybe some quality sealant around any roof penetrations. Not to many contours on my boat just a nice gentle curve.

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...you could solder the joints and make it 100% waterproof

I cant see that working. Surely it would need joints that allowed it to expand and contract, otherwise it would just rip and or buckle in hot/cold weather!

 

 

Dainel

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I cant see that working. Surely it would need joints that allowed it to expand and contract, otherwise it would just rip and or buckle in hot/cold weather!

Dainel

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I don't know I have seen many copper roofs on buildings and they don't buckle summer or winter and they have soldered seams. However the thought of soldering over fibreglass might be risky. A standing seam design would allow for some expansion and contraction.

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I don't know I have seen many copper roofs on buildings and they don't buckle summer or winter and they have soldered seams. However the thought of soldering over fibreglass might be risky. A standing seam design would allow for some expansion and contraction.

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I built a ply and epoxy sheathed sailing dingy using west systems epoxy.

 

A roof made like this would be very low maintainence if the performance of the hull is to go by.

 

Ive been thinking of using this method on a steel narrow boat hull to make the cabin.

 

Plus there is the added benifit that you can do any upkeep yourself, as with steel its a bit more specialised.

Edited by phsycicdreamer
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Phisy.

 

The point of steel cabins, or steel anything else, there is no upkeep. If you have the option for using steel you should always do that. The reason that there are now thousands of all steel narrowboats on the system is that they work. Please don't try to innovate it has been tried before.

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I built a ply and epoxy sheathed sailing dingy using west systems epoxy.

- A roof made like this would be very low maintainence if the performance of the hull is to go by.

Have yoo seen the roof section i made out of epoxy sheathed ply (also west ssytems infact)

- Its only 5'5"*6' bit it was still good to make, although a lot of effort, and rather expensive.

 

GRP cabins in more than possable, its been done before. However, i would still go for steal, with a goot twopack epoxy paint job.

 

 

Daniel

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Thanks for the link Daniel.

 

I think we are at crossed paths here matey.

 

Im talking about ply contruction which is then rolled or brushed with liquid epoxy to protect it from the elements.

This would then be primed then painted.

Fair enough steel would be very strong but for the cabin i dont think it would be a requirement as its not getting knocked about like the bottom and sides ect.

If you consider the reduced cost of just buying the steel hull them making your own cabin cutting holes for windows would be easy to with a jigsaw with a jig for cutting neat circles.

A lot of work i know but a considerable saving plus the added benifit of being able to play with the shape and look of the cabin for a slightly more unique look if one was so inclined.

Does anyone think IM way off here with this approach of buying just the basic hull to build on?

I dont think there would be a strength issue as this would all be in the hull if traditional freight barges are to go by.

Cheers.

Cheers.

Edited by phsycicdreamer
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Thanks for the link Daniel.

 

I think we are at crossed paths here matey.

 

Im talking about ply contruction which is then rolled or brushed with liquid epoxy to protect it from the elements.

This would then be primed then painted.

Fair enough steel would be very strong but for the cabin i dont think it would be a requirement as its not getting knocked about like the bottom and sides ect.

If you consider the reduced cost of just buying the steel hull them making your own cabin cutting holes for windows would be easy to with a jigsaw with a jig for cutting neat circles.

A lot of work i know but a considerable saving plus the added benifit of being able to play with the shape and look of the cabin for a slightly more unique look if one was so inclined.

Does anyone think IM way off here with this approach of buying just the basic hull to build on?

I dont think there would be a strength issue as this would all be in the hull if traditional freight barges are to go by.

 

 

Cheers.

Cheers.

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yeah, tried to tell you before, I think you are way off line .......

 

 

 

well you did ask.

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John Orentas i hear what you are saying.

 

I strongly beleive in innovation.

 

I also beleive that there is nothing wrong with being positive while trying to find a cheaper perfectly practical altenative to steel for a cabin.

 

The maths certainly proves its a good alternative also.

 

If you look at building design and how it has evolved or any other design innovation it is always met with raised eyebrows and for me this is part of the excitement of having a boat.

 

I find the prospect of just buying an off the shelf lump of steel rather boring and something that just suits the Canal boat building industries way of doing things.

 

Look at wooden boat building as a subject by itself and innovation is most welcome and enjoyed.

 

Like i said do the maths?

 

If all i want to do is get on the water to try the lifestyle for a couple of years rather than getting into a long winded investment plan then i think initially reducing cost is sensible then upgrading when i see fit.

 

If i have an old hull repaired ect then that initial cost will be recovered.

 

Thanks.

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Hi Physi.

 

I have been a designer for most of my life so I believe in innovation too. The question is where does innovation end and re-inventing the wheel begin. Believe me the last thing I would ever want to do is discouraging anyone from experimenting with our present very boring designs, a few years ago there many fascinating innovative boats on the water.

 

To paraphrase someone "If I can see further than other men, it is because I sit upon the shoulders of giants". There are lots and lots of opportunities to innovate with narrowboats as you will find when you start fitting all the mechanical and electrical systems.

 

But at this stage you must ask yourself can 200 boat builders and 2000 buyers all be wrong.

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Thanks for the link Daniel.

 

I think we are at crossed paths here matey.

 

Im talking about ply contruction which is then rolled or brushed with liquid epoxy to protect it from the elements.

This would then be primed then painted.

Fair enough steel would be very strong but for the cabin i dont think it would be a requirement as its not getting knocked about like the bottom and sides ect.

If you consider the reduced cost of just buying the steel hull them making your own cabin cutting holes for windows would be easy to with a jigsaw with a jig for cutting neat circles.

A lot of work i know but a considerable saving plus the added benifit of being able to play with the shape and look of the cabin for a slightly more unique look if one was so inclined.

Does anyone think IM way off here with this approach of buying just the basic hull to build on?

I dont think there would be a strength issue as this would all be in the hull if traditional freight barges are to go by.

Cheers.

Cheers.

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From a manufacturers point of view I don't see a problem with supplying a hull without cabin after all it's just the same as the work boats we build.

We like to experiment and help the customers to get out of the boat what they need, quite a few of our popular designs were arrived at in just this way.

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From a manufacturers point of view I don't see a problem with supplying a hull without cabin after all it's just the same as the work boats we build.

We like to experiment and help the customers to get out of the boat what they need, quite a few of our popular designs were arrived at in just this way.

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Thanks for that.

 

Even if i did go for a shell with a cabin Liverpool Boats are rubbed off the list.

Their communication skills are dire hence why companies like Lees Narrowboats charge extra because they are worth it from what ive seen and heard so far in comparison to LB pathetic efforts.

Soppose i beter carm it carm it a a.

 

Get in touch please Gary with some prices and customer service :rolleyes:

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Phsycicdreamer, i understand that you where not planning to use any glass cloth in your sheathing, but other than that it the same. And i may well paint over what i have done so far, depending apon what the finsh looks like in a few years.

 

Chris, what the point in that post?

- It doesnt really add anything does it.

 

While we where at tarleton we where moored next to a NB with a GRP cabin (which was good, becuase we couldnt get into the egde, and it made a good walkway!)

- The cabin still looked in relativley good nick. Considering the state of the rest of the boat.

-Here are a few photos on my site. (as you can see from the last photo, untill they came to move it to do the bank it was sunk)

 

http://www.spurstow.com/emilyanne/gallerys...ages/image5.htm

http://www.spurstow.com/emilyanne/gallerys...ages/image6.htm

http://www.spurstow.com/emilyanne/gallerys...ges/image19.htm

http://www.spurstow.com/emilyanne/gallerys...ges/image57.htm

 

I think your plan/design is more than possable, but tbh, i think its unlikely to work out cheaper or last longer/look better than a 4mm steal one with a good paint job.

 

 

Daniel

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Dhutch you are certainly right in what you say about the cabin and steel.

 

Unfortunately money dictates my choices to a certain extent.

 

I could afford a cabin less hull that may be an old rusty work boat or something then work on it or get work done as i go along but sadly a new shell is looking out of the question.

 

I just want to get on the water and try the lifestyle IM sure some of you understand.

 

Those pictures of the other boat look acceptable to me with a clean up.

 

Any idea's where i could get an old hull?

 

What kind of work would need doing on it as standard?

 

Thanks for the advice.

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