Leak in fresh water system

[TheWilk]

Hello, first of all, sorry my first post is an appeal for help but I'm desperate!

 

I have a Shurflo water pump which has been working fine - does that thing where it buzzes from time to time but nothing major. Anyway, the other day I'd left it switched on while I was cruising for a couple of hours, and when I turned the engine off I realised it was running constantly. Obviously I've kept it switched off except when I need it, but after only a day the bilge in the cabin area was full to overflowing.

 

I've checked all the pipes which are all above floor level and nothing seems to be leaking. I'm presuming there's a leak somewhere because it's running as if a tap was open, but I can't find anything and don't know where to start looking. I can't get into the calorifier but it seems dry around that area - I've just had a new waterpump fitted to the engine and I wasn't exactly overcome with confidence in the guys who did it.... couldn't be connected could it? Any advice greatly appreciated!

[Guest]

Hello, first of all, sorry my first post is an appeal for help but I'm desperate!

 

I have a Shurflo water pump which has been working fine - does that thing where it buzzes from time to time but nothing major. Anyway, the other day I'd left it switched on while I was cruising for a couple of hours, and when I turned the engine off I realised it was running constantly. Obviously I've kept it switched off except when I need it, but after only a day the bilge in the cabin area was full to overflowing.

 

I've checked all the pipes which are all above floor level and nothing seems to be leaking. I'm presuming there's a leak somewhere because it's running as if a tap was open, but I can't find anything and don't know where to start looking. I can't get into the calorifier but it seems dry around that area - I've just had a new waterpump fitted to the engine and I wasn't exactly overcome with confidence in the guys who did it.... couldn't be connected could it? Any advice greatly appreciated!

Doubt if it is the engine. If the pump is running constantly, and the bilges are full, then there is a leak in the system somewhere. Both my NB's have done this at some point. One was frost damage,the other a dodgy "speedfit" fitting. It is surprising how quickly a small leak can empty the tank into the bilges. mine was leaking under the kitchen sink tap. It should be starightforward to follow the pipework from the pump to the furthest point. I suspect if the pump is not cutting out at all , that you are looking at a major leak. Is there a draindown valve anywhere? This could have got knocked open of developed a leak.

[Guest TerryL]

Hello, first of all, sorry my first post is an appeal for help but I'm desperate!

 

I have a Shurflo water pump which has been working fine - does that thing where it buzzes from time to time but nothing major. Anyway, the other day I'd left it switched on while I was cruising for a couple of hours, and when I turned the engine off I realised it was running constantly. Obviously I've kept it switched off except when I need it, but after only a day the bilge in the cabin area was full to overflowing.

 

I've checked all the pipes which are all above floor level and nothing seems to be leaking. I'm presuming there's a leak somewhere because it's running as if a tap was open, but I can't find anything and don't know where to start looking. I can't get into the calorifier but it seems dry around that area - I've just had a new waterpump fitted to the engine and I wasn't exactly overcome with confidence in the guys who did it.... couldn't be connected could it? Any advice greatly appreciated!

 

 

You've probably got a pipe come off somewhere on the pressure side of the pump. Pump the bilge out first then with water in the tank switch the pump back on and look and listen for the leak. It's unlikely to be connected with the engine but they could have disturbed something nearby.

[TheWilk]

Wow, thanks for the quick replies!

 

What I can't understand (because I'm a complete novice) is how the water is getting to the bilge when all the pipework is above floor level. My calorifier is in a cabinet in the cabin and I can't get into it without dismantling it... so this is the only place I haven't checked yet. If it is the calorifier, could that have anything to do with my engine overheating massively (or the thermostat jumping to 120 anyway) while the waterpump was being tinkered with the other day?

[Guest TerryL]

Wow, thanks for the quick replies!

 

What I can't understand (because I'm a complete novice) is how the water is getting to the bilge when all the pipework is above floor level. My calorifier is in a cabinet in the cabin and I can't get into it without dismantling it... so this is the only place I haven't checked yet. If it is the calorifier, could that have anything to do with my engine overheating massively (or the thermostat jumping to 120 anyway) while the waterpump was being tinkered with the other day?

 

The calorifier should have a pressure relief valve which can stick open or be held open if the pump pressure is too high for the valve setting, this can happen when hot if there is no expansion vessel, the outlet is probably in the bilge. If your calorifier is heated from the engine the only thing to link them is the heating coil inside which can fail and cause problems with the engine and or hot water system.

Edited September 21, 2008 by TerryL

[Guest]

Just remembered a friend of mine was crossing the Ribble link, and giving the engine more revs than usual. It overheated which led to the bursting of the calorifier, depite there being the correct pressure relief valves. Wonder if this is what has happened here?

[TheWilk]

Just remembered a friend of mine was crossing the Ribble link, and giving the engine more revs than usual. It overheated which led to the bursting of the calorifier, depite there being the correct pressure relief valves. Wonder if this is what has happened here?

 

Well... the story goes like this...

 

I'd been moored up for a good few weeks opposite a waterpoint - only cruising every couple of weeks to fill up with water and turn around. On the last of these occasions in the space of 100 metres my water was nearly at boiling point and I realised that my tank was nearly empty... so I filled it up with the engine hatch open and saw a little drip coming out of the waterpump.

 

The engineers came out and said the pump was completely knackered. Before they got round to fixing it though, I took my boat to a nearby marina for diesel and it was OK - 2 hours cruising never going over 60 degrees... although I kept topping up the tank with a bucket.

 

Engineers (eventually!) came out to replace the water pump. I was due to go out on the Ribble Link THAT DAY and they told me they'd fixed the pump well enough to get me across the Link after which it would need adjusting (?) but then announced that my drive plate was about to die at any moment so I should get someone to tow me across. As they showed up an hour late I'd already missed the crossing for that day anyway... so I got towed the next day. Kept her in gear cos I was told this would help with the steering, didn't go over 60 the whole day.

 

The other day the thermostat was showing 80 but I was worried because it smelt a bit odd like when it overheated and the water tank was pretty hot to the touch.

 

I'm at a loss at what to do - pretty p***d off that I paid £180 for what is apparently a temporary job and now this... which seems ever so slightly related... I suppose I won't know until I get the box around the calorifier off. I think there's still time for me to stop their cheque!

 

Sorry about the essay... that's actually the short version! This week has been very eventful and it's not even over yet

[denboy]

engine over heating after a new pump fitted sounds like an air lock in the pipework somewere.

as to the water leak if all your pipes are showing except the clarifier tank then sods law says its leaking were you cant get to it at the tank

[Guest TerryL]

Well... the story goes like this...

 

I'd been moored up for a good few weeks opposite a waterpoint - only cruising every couple of weeks to fill up with water and turn around. On the last of these occasions in the space of 100 metres my water was nearly at boiling point and I realised that my tank was nearly empty... so I filled it up with the engine hatch open and saw a little drip coming out of the waterpump.

 

The engineers came out and said the pump was completely knackered. Before they got round to fixing it though, I took my boat to a nearby marina for diesel and it was OK - 2 hours cruising never going over 60 degrees... although I kept topping up the tank with a bucket.

 

Engineers (eventually!) came out to replace the water pump. I was due to go out on the Ribble Link THAT DAY and they told me they'd fixed the pump well enough to get me across the Link after which it would need adjusting (?) but then announced that my drive plate was about to die at any moment so I should get someone to tow me across. As they showed up an hour late I'd already missed the crossing for that day anyway... so I got towed the next day. Kept her in gear cos I was told this would help with the steering, didn't go over 60 the whole day.

 

The other day the thermostat was showing 80 but I was worried because it smelt a bit odd like when it overheated and the water tank was pretty hot to the touch.

 

I'm at a loss at what to do - pretty p***d off that I paid £180 for what is apparently a temporary job and now this... which seems ever so slightly related... I suppose I won't know until I get the box around the calorifier off. I think there's still time for me to stop their cheque!

 

Sorry about the essay... that's actually the short version! This week has been very eventful and it's not even over yet

 

Not sure which pump you refer to but it sounds like the engine circulation pump leaking at the seal. These are usually only fixed by replacing the pump completely so I can't see what could have been done temporarily or what could need adjusting apart from the belt unless you have an unusual system or pump. What did they do? The engine should run at 80oC or so and would not be overheating at that. A properly installed good quality calorifier with an expansion vessel and a pressure and temperature relief valve and overheat cutout should not have any problems as a result of an engine overheating.

[TheWilk]

Not sure which pump you refer to but it sounds like the engine circulation pump leaking at the seal. These are usually only fixed by replacing the pump completely so I can't see what could have been done temporarily or what could need adjusting apart from the belt unless you have an unusual system or pump. What did they do? The engine should run at 80oC or so and would not be overheating at that. A properly installed good quality calorifier with an expansion vessel and a pressure and temperature relief valve and overheat cutout should not have any problems as a result of an engine overheating.

 

They replaced the engine water pump but had to go back and get a different pulley for it and said that it wasn't a perfect fit but would do for now... they also changed the fan belt but that's squeaking already. I wasn't paying full attention because I was stressing so much as the clock was ticking away for the high tide on the Ribble Link!

 

When they'd put the new pump on, the thermostat acted a bit crazy for a while - shooting up to over 120oC after only running for a few seconds... it's been showing normal readings since but like I say... when it was showing 80 something didn't seem right...

 

This is the second water pump I've knackered in as many months... I had a Fiesta that had a broken bonnet so i couldn't put water in and the inevitable happened... I always learn the hard way!

[denboy]

They replaced the engine water pump but had to go back and get a different pulley for it and said that it wasn't a perfect fit but would do for now... they also changed the fan belt but that's squeaking already. I wasn't paying full attention because I was stressing so much as the clock was ticking away for the high tide on the Ribble Link!

 

When they'd put the new pump on, the thermostat acted a bit crazy for a while - shooting up to over 120oC after only running for a few seconds... it's been showing normal readings since but like I say... when it was showing 80 something didn't seem right...

 

This is the second water pump I've knackered in as many months... I had a Fiesta that had a broken bonnet so i couldn't put water in and the inevitable happened... I always learn the hard way!

belt squeaking=loose belt=overheating retighten belt

[Guest TerryL]

They replaced the engine water pump but had to go back and get a different pulley for it and said that it wasn't a perfect fit but would do for now... they also changed the fan belt but that's squeaking already. I wasn't paying full attention because I was stressing so much as the clock was ticking away for the high tide on the Ribble Link!

 

When they'd put the new pump on, the thermostat acted a bit crazy for a while - shooting up to over 120oC after only running for a few seconds... it's been showing normal readings since but like I say... when it was showing 80 something didn't seem right...

 

This is the second water pump I've knackered in as many months... I had a Fiesta that had a broken bonnet so i couldn't put water in and the inevitable happened... I always learn the hard way!

 

You need the correct pulley otherwise it will slip and not work properly, I would have thought the old pulley was usable. The initial high temperature was probably caused by air in the system but it should run at 80-85C normally. Anyway you need to check for a leak into the bilge.

[alan_fincher]

If it's the actual water pump mounted on the engine they changed, then you would normally swap your existing pulley from old pump to new.

 

I'm unclear why they would need to supply any new pulley ?

 

This boat is not raw water cooled is it, (i.e. takes water from the canal to cool, and ejects it overboard again).

[TheWilk]

If it's the actual water pump mounted on the engine they changed, then you would normally swap your existing pulley from old pump to new.

 

I'm unclear why they would need to supply any new pulley ?

Ok, I'll try not to get too technical here but the bolt holes in the old pulley didn't match up with the holes in the new pump.

This boat is not raw water cooled is it, (i.e. takes water from the canal to cool, and ejects it overboard again).

No, fresh water.

[sociable_hermit]

From the original description I'd say all this talk of engines is misplaced. If you have water under the floor in the living space and your water pump tries to run continuously then you have either a hot or cold water leak. [The pump will keep working if it senses 'demand' - so if a leak develops it will keep trying to fill the resulting space with water. The pump can't detect the difference between deliberate use and a leak. The leak could be somewhere on the hot water side and the pump will attempt to keep topping the hot tank up for you].

 

If you have more than one inspection hatch, have a look into all of them and try to work out how far up the boat is (or has been) wet.

 

Remember that even a small dribble from a joint can be a spray when the pump is working. You might only be able to see it with the pump on. Obviously you don't want to refill your bilges so I'd suggest finding a willing volunteer to operate the switch / RCD / fuse at appropriate times