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rayburn/aga/multifuel cooker!

captain rosie

By captain rosie
in Boat Equipment

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Guest TerryL

Guest TerryL

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Posted
I'm building my boat round one! Should solve the door not wide enough problem. :lol:

 

Has anybody checked out the price of a Heritage recently? Last time I looked they were outrageously expensive for the two oven version .......

 

Sorry for the blatant advertising but I can supply refurbished Stanley Super Star oil fired diesel/kero PJ two oven range cookers for central heating and hot water for less than half price of new and some others. PM for details/requirements if interested.

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Strads Proficient

Strads

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Posted

Just to add further comment to counter some comments made ( but can understand some basis to them )

 

Aga's (oil and gas fired versions) do do central heating - my parents have both models with @ 20 years use of both fuel types and

other than a wind baffle for the latest one (kitchens on the first floor of and catches the wind) no issues other than a service..40 years trouble free..

 

They have considered them reasonable to run as cost wise the have heated the house and provided hot water etc at similar cost to thos running a stanrdard central heating boiler)

 

Would suggest extended in depth research - start by reviewing the manufactuers web sites and those of several providers of used / upgraded stoves etc..

 

 

each system / installation is different and unless the situation adjusted for then success will vary.

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Berty Contributor

Berty

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Posted (edited)
We've had a Rayburn in our boat for 17? years. Solid fuel but we do burn wood on it as well. We haven't found it expensive, prob 1cwt a week, and it heats the boat including 2 radiators and the water. We have a normal height chimney and a gas stove for summer. One problem is getting it onto the boat. Ours came on before we fitted it out through extra wide side doors. Like all solid fuel stoves it is dusty.

Please ask if you want any more info.

Sue

 

We're refitting our boat (I've just pulled up the last of the ballast and removed the rust on the base plate!) so once it's inside there are no partitions or anything getting in the way.

 

Getting it inside in the first place is going to be tricky... I think it will fit through the side hatch, or the back doors with the top hatch open, but only just. And due to the weight of it, manoeuvring it is going to be a challenge. Thinking about it, it might be worth taking the boat to a boat yard with a crane, and get the rayburn delivered there instead.

 

This is going to be a real head scratcher!

 

 

Oh, just thought of something.

 

Can I ask about your installation? Is it sat on a plinth of some sort? How much space is there around it (sides and back), and what is it next to?

 

I'm hoping to be able to install mine flush with the kitchen work top, but I'm concerned about setting things on fire!

 

Cheers,

Berty

Edited by Berty
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Guest TerryL

Guest TerryL

Posted
Posted
Just to add further comment to counter some comments made ( but can understand some basis to them )

 

Aga's (oil and gas fired versions) do do central heating - my parents have both models with @ 20 years use of both fuel types and

other than a wind baffle for the latest one (kitchens on the first floor of and catches the wind) no issues other than a service..40 years trouble free..

 

They have considered them reasonable to run as cost wise the have heated the house and provided hot water etc at similar cost to thos running a stanrdard central heating boiler)

 

Would suggest extended in depth research - start by reviewing the manufactuers web sites and those of several providers of used / upgraded stoves etc..

 

 

each system / installation is different and unless the situation adjusted for then success will vary.

 

Sorry but Aga cookers have never done central heating on their own, you used to have a separate boiler which can be made by Aga.

 

Stanley, Esse, Rayburn etc. have central heating models which are designed differently to Aga. I have been in the range cooker business for 20 years so I should know this. Older Aga cookers are expensive to run and not very efficient unless you need the heat they produce 24 hours a day.

 

Range cookers including the new Aga with pressure jet oil burners are much better for boats as they are easy to control on and off like a boiler and can run on diesel or kerosene.

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turnbuttonboy Contributor

turnbuttonboy

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We run an oil fueled Rayburn through the winter - we have a gas stove for summer use. The joy of our set up is that fuel is gravity fed from a header tank with no electricity needed to run it. This means that we can leave the boat for up to a fortnight with all the electrics isolated and not worry about Jack Frost. Of course we invalidated the warranty by not installing a 4.5 metre flue but it runs perfectly on just over 2 metres. The downside is that they are designed to run continuously - if you want a bit of heat in the evenings in the spring and autumn then it is worth backing it up with something better suited to occasional running - that is unless you enjoy dismantling and cleaning the coke out of the burner every few days. This coking will be much worse if you burn diesel rather than kerosene. For the record we get all our hot water, cooking and heat for approximately 1200 litres of fuel per winter.

 

Would not want to go without it. Giles.

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sueb Veteran II

sueb

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We're refitting our boat (I've just pulled up the last of the ballast and removed the rust on the base plate!) so once it's inside there are no partitions or anything getting in the way.

 

Getting it inside in the first place is going to be tricky... I think it will fit through the side hatch, or the back doors with the top hatch open, but only just. And due to the weight of it, manoeuvring it is going to be a challenge. Thinking about it, it might be worth taking the boat to a boat yard with a crane, and get the rayburn delivered there instead.

 

This is going to be a real head scratcher!

 

 

Oh, just thought of something.

 

Can I ask about your installation? Is it sat on a plinth of some sort? How much space is there around it (sides and back), and what is it next to?

 

I'm hoping to be able to install mine flush with the kitchen work top, but I'm concerned about setting things on fire!

 

Cheers,

Berty

The rayburn is sat on paving slabs on top of the stirling board floor. The space may vary depending what I have hit recently :lol:

A couple of inches gap. We have the rayburn moved about a foot from the side to get the ballasting right. This makes a nice dry cupboard to keep spare bedding. The boards are lined with an asbestos substitute board. I think you will need an air gap between the rayburn and the work surface.

Sue

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Guest TerryL

Guest TerryL

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Posted
We're refitting our boat (I've just pulled up the last of the ballast and removed the rust on the base plate!) so once it's inside there are no partitions or anything getting in the way.

 

Getting it inside in the first place is going to be tricky... I think it will fit through the side hatch, or the back doors with the top hatch open, but only just. And due to the weight of it, manoeuvring it is going to be a challenge. Thinking about it, it might be worth taking the boat to a boat yard with a crane, and get the rayburn delivered there instead.

 

This is going to be a real head scratcher!

 

 

Oh, just thought of something.

 

Can I ask about your installation? Is it sat on a plinth of some sort? How much space is there around it (sides and back), and what is it next to?

 

I'm hoping to be able to install mine flush with the kitchen work top, but I'm concerned about setting things on fire!

 

Cheers,

Berty

 

The easiest way to get it in as it weighs around 300kg + would be by crane, once inside you can use steel pipe as rollers. A solid fuel Rayburn does need a heatproof plinth and it can be used to bring it up to worktop height. The less boiler it has the more air space is required but a minimum 1" is probably best or as the instructions recommend as solid fuel can run away if neglected and produce very high temperatures, the flue must be able to withstand over 1000oC and should be double insulated at least through the roof. Attention should be given to the heat radiated from any single skin flue and hot parts.

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