Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'tacho'.
We've had our n/boat for just over a year and I've never had a lot of confidence in the original Barrus Shire 10 year old instrument panel which had a suspect ignition switch (lose, floopy key slot) and a tacho that never moved. So I replaced it with the latest version which I rather naively thought would be a straight swap - Same size, same block connecter etc. There was however some wiring mods needed one of which was due to now having individual battery/alternator lights for both the starter battery and the leisure batteries. I explained this to Barrus as they originally told me it would simple swap and they, all credit to them, sent a guy out to the marina within 48 hours to modify the block connector etc to get things connected. However he identified that the starter battery wasn't charging due to a faulty alternator which was the reason for the tacho problem and the battery/alternator light staying on. So it was frustrating that having fitted the newly refurbished alternator, both the above problems still continued. However following a suggestion from another marina colleague, I disconnected the LED bulb and holder from the back of the panel and reconnected to a traditional 12 volt/2w bulb and holder. On starting up....hey presto the light went out and the tacho needle sprung into life!. So....whilst some might say - well that's the problem sorted....I am puzzled by such things? Comments welcome but please bear in mind those of you who posses a far greater understanding of electrical matters that my knowledge is limited and I am merely keen to know whether by simply changing the bulb from an LED really has solved the problem and why the starter battery alternator would work with the LED? Thanks in advance
Hi All, I have a ford 1.8xld with Bosch alternator, also the boat has a smith industries tacho, which has never been connected. I have searched and found links from other sites, as I understand it the Tacho is wired to ground and to the 'W' terminal of the alternator. See pics. As you can see from the alternator picture, the 'W' terminal appears to be missing, I am assuming that I will have to connect my own terminal her, probably by soldering. Is this correct ? The second picture is from the back of the Tacho. Assuming this is the wiring diagram, single ind is a single alternator setup, dual ind, for a dual alternator setup. So if I am reading correctly, 'W' connector from alternator, to pin 1 of Tacho, pin 2 of Tacho to Ground. And now if I wanted to connect the second Alternator, then the same for pins 3 and 4 ? If any one can just confirm or deny, been a while ( 18 years ) since working on this type of equipment.
Hello, I've been having a bit of trouble with charging recently. My batteries are quite low, and the alternator doesn't seem to be charging them enough. The alternator kicks out 13v max (even when charging for a few hours). I don't have a generator or battery charger to whizz them up to full so relying on the alternator. I've ordered a clamp-on ammeter to see what sort of power the alternator is kicking out (and see if something is shorting and draining power), and have inquired with a tacho seller to check if his tacho will work with my alternator, to check the RPM. I was wondering if someone could clear up the connections on the back of my alternator. The connections are on page 33... http://www.prestolite.com/literature/alts/PP1184_Buyer_Guide_alt.pdf I currently have 2 spade connectors coming from the two ++ "European Output Connections", and one from the excitation terminal. What are the AUX and B+ connectors for? Also, I don't have a connector for the battery temperature sensing terminal - should I have one? PS. Does anyone know if this tacho should just simply work by connecting to the W connector? Still waiting on a reply from the seller... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tachometer-Rev-Counter-0-6000-RPM-Alternator-Driven-Type-With-W-Terminal-/371043881967?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5663f053ef Thanks a lot, mibix