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Showing results for tags 'stern'.
Found 6 results
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Good afternoon all, How long can I run the boat with no stern greaser available?? Conventional stern tube and packing. Stern tube leakage, - about a pint a day. Existing greaser pipe has split and no grease is getting to the gland. Is there any rev limits I should observe? Time limits - how long can it go without lubrication? I ask this as I have been told the greaser system is not essential equipment and it is OK to run the boat "for a while". Thank you Dave R
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Hello My husband and I are looking to live on a narrowboat full time with our dog. We have quite a list of requirements and I have planned the "Perfect" boat layout....the main problem is, that it doesn't exist in the real world The perfect layout is: Trad stern to galley, through to salon with wood-burner, door to walk-through bathroom, door to study area with large wardrobe for dressing area, through to bedroom with cupboards and cross bed looking out to the bow. I am thinking no longer than 58ft. I wanted to find out (from those with experience) how tricky / expensive it is to change the layout of a boat...or if it would be better to buy a sail away and start from scratch..? Thank you
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Hello, Im new to boating and new to this forum so, hello, and sorry for any cross posting. I have just bought a 5 year old cruiser shell (insulated with windows) which I plan to fit out myself (with help along the way), but have had the engine and all the stern gear put in profesionaly. There seems to be a couple of things not quite right with this and would greatly appreciate some advise. .. Firstly ...the engine (vetus 42) sounds great in idle! But when i put it into gear an almighty rattling starts, to the extent that my neighbour across the yard can feel it vibrating his boat. I have checked the engine mounts and they appear solid. The other thing, that i think could be the cause of this, is the clearance between the tip of the prop and the skeg below. I have measured it and there is only a 4mm gap!!! I imagine this wont make too much of a difference to the actual propolsion of the boat but seems like it could be a nightmare for things getting trapped down there. It looks like they only measured from the inside when they cut the stern hole and didnt check from the outside? The boat was the first boat Darke Steel ever made so, although the build quality seems very sturdy I think the measurements might have been a little unusual, particularly for the stern and im not sure the fitters checked this thoroughly. I will be speaking to the fitters soon but want to be a bit more clued up before i do. The scenario of taking everything out, patching it up and putting it in a few inches higher, is running through my head and it doesnt sound too appealing. Any thoughts on how I should appraoch this would be very appreciated.
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Hi, I have a stern gland shown below which is assembled using rings rather than the more usual nuts and bolts. There are two rings (moved with a C-spanner). In the attached picture the top ring is nearer to the propeller. I need to know which ring do I adjust when too much water is coming in, and how do I dismantle it to re-pack it? Normally I would just try it and see, but I am aware that a mistake here could end up with a sunken boat! Any advice on this would be gratefully received.
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Some pictures of my bike rack as requested in Junior's CC thread. It's made of aluminium angle and wood. The bike was on offer at Halfrauds a while ago at £99 unassembled, or £119 if they put it together for me. It took me 20 minutes to do the job...
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Dear all, I have a beta marine 38, with a PRM delta gearbox (no input shaft spline wear) driven by an R & D 'extra dampening' drive plate. Coupled via a double-cardan/constant velocity joint (from a london taxi propshaft), through a plumber's block to the stern bearing. When engaged in gear, at tick-over (wound down to 550rpm), there is a distinct 'clonk-clonk-clonk' coming from the region of the gearbox. At higher engine speeds, this noise seems to go away, although that could just be the engine drowning it out. The shaft/cv join moves freely (with the force expected to drive a prop in water) by hand in both directions. The engine is angled down slightly on its mounts (adjustable screw-nut ones) so that the double-cardan input is slightly off-set. My question is - should I worry about this? I have no nylon coupling between the gearbox and the prop/cv-join input shaft, so is this likely to just be 'clonky plumbers block'? Should I raise the tick-over? It was wound down when the engine control lever insisted on increasing the rpm prior to engaging gear - there is now a correct control lever. I think the rated tickover is 750rpm. I will increase it. Many thanks, Patrick Vale (cross-posted to http://www.waterwaysworld.com/questions.cgi) Which seems to have replaced the title - should read 'Drive train clonking in gear'.
