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Showing results for tags 'steel'.
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Hi there. I currently live on a 46ft narrow, built in 1989. I share this with my partner. I would like to get another boat, around 60ft long, for use as a home, and turn the 46ft into a shop. Theoretically I could have access to £28,000 in the coming year, and would then be able to spend money as the months go on, as I save from work (£500 here and there for various jobs). The boat would not have to be a live aboard straight away, this can be developed over time. I have been researching space-saving fit out ideas, mainly from community groups dedicated to fitting out vans, which seem to have some very good solutions, much more contemporary than boat fit outs. I'm happy to pay carpenters to make specific wooden furniture with functionality - e.g. tables which fold to the ceiling, seating areas with storage underneath. This would be what I envisage the "£500 here and there" to be for. My personal opinion is that second hand boats are often over priced, and that a new boat could have the potential to be fitted out as a blank canvas. But perhaps I am being naive about the amount of work involved. What do you think? Would you buy new, or second hand? New - best builders? What to avoid? What to look out for? Secondhand - price guideline? What to avoid? Where to look?
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Hello, I have a 20mm hole in the roof of my NB. Its 6mm thick steel. Used to be where the TV antenna was. I have no used for the hole, but seems too big to use P38, and I dont have access to a welder (although I could if that was the only way). Would be interested in any advise or thoughts Many Thanks Stuart
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Hi all, I'm hoping to repaint my steel narrowboat this September. She's 56ft and after a painfully slow 2 year internal refit it's almost time to give the outside some TLC. So my plan was this: ROOF: The roof is a right state, i was going to take this back to bare steel with a rotary scabbler. I was going to remove as much rust as i could with a wire wheel on an angle grinder or maybe a needle gun. I was then going to treat the whole roof with Fertan then sugar soap and wash. I was then going to treat with 2 coats of Red Oxide. SIDES: Sand back with a random orbit sander. Remove rust patched with angle grinder and again treat with Fertan, then wash and coat with 2 coats of Red Oxide. Once I've done this i was going to apply 2 coats of undercoat then 2 coats of top coat gloss. (I was thinking International Toplac) Sorry if this is going over old ground but and tips would be much appreciated or just a general nod if this plan doesn't sound too stupid. This bit might though...i'm hoping to get all the prep done asap then do all the painting in the fist 2 weeks of September. Thanks a lot!
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I have been looking at different river & canal boats that are for sale & I came across a barge that was listed as having an iron hull. Does anyone have any advice or knowledge they can share with me about the benefits or drawbacks of an iron hull compared with steel? Thank you, Vanessa
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Hi, I have just looked at a 36ft Springer (perhaps early 80's) narrowboat for sale, priced at 10,000, as a project boat. No survey yet - owners have had her for 3 years, in those years they have replated on both front and stern after a survey, and blacked and annoded once (now due for renewal) The project: 1. Pre-purchase: Survey + It is due blacking, annodes and engine service (potentially the costs of this, and any replating needed, could be deducted from 10,000 boat cost) 2. Interior Hull: Need to create access in the floor to the interior hull as it there is currently no hatch etc. - Whilst doing the floor, thought would be a good idea to swap (apparently lumps of metal) ballast for engineering blocks, and, do work on the interior steel hull if needed (wire cup brush, rust treat with Vactan, and overcoat with something - bilge paint OR red oxide???) - Then insulate, plywood boards, and wooden board flooring. 3. Panelling: Taking down wall and ceiling boards which have been B&Q bodged in, to be able to redo with nicer wood, but most importantly, electrics and plumbing. 4. Wiring: There is wiring for 12v and 240v, however 240v is not plugged in at the moment, and the owners are running off solar (owners don't trust the wiring) SO would need completely re-wiring the solar (as it is currently just strung around the boat), utility battery for ceiling lights, 12v sockets and 240v sockets, and waterpump for shower/water. 5. Plumbing: There is also plumbing, but they currently don't use as they removed the old watertank, and currently run off a jerry can of water for the sink, and a cassette toilet. The plumbing also currently runs under the floor, so all old plumbing needs to be ripped out, and replumbed in the wall cavities - would like to plumb in sink, shower and potentially septic tank toilet, and then need to get a new watertank. 6. Other Misc: There is a working gas oven and hob, which seems to be fine and functional, so maybe gas is ok? Also a good, working coal/wood burner. Although engine needs a service, she ran well, when they took us for a 1 hr cruise, i think it is a Lister aircooled engine. So, if the survey all went well, does this sound like too much - In all honesty this would be my first narrowboat, but I am on a budget, hence only being able to afford budget boats. Time is not an issue, although being able to live in it by spring would be great. Main questions; - does the tactic to restore the inner hull sound like an ok approach, if it needed doing? What is the realistic expectation for the steel interior hull of a 80's Springer? - is wiring/plumbing possible to do myself, or is it needed to have a professional for BSC and insurnnce? In which case, how much could i expect for full plumbing/wiring? - what work could i expect to do myself, and what should i look for quotes for? Any advice will be HUGELY appreciated in terms of costs expected, or time taken, or regulations to adhere to when doing up a boat. This boat, technically is liveable, as they have been fine for 3 years, but needing this work, what price for it would be realistic? Thank you!
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Hi we recently had to have some work on the base of our hull as well as blacking. Our boat has been in the water for 48hrs and the blacking is appearing faded at the base of the hull? For instance where plating has been added is appearing silver through the water. It is along the side of the bank we have been moored but I would have thought if enough blacking was placed it would appear blac for longer than 2 days? Is this normal/ too soon? Can anyone give advice? We paid someone to complete the blacking also.
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What would you recommend to take off the paint on the side walkways along the narrowboat? Eg. Where you walk along that has the sandy paint for grip. Fast stripping metal disks seem to work well on the angle grinder for in the corners. Taking back to metal.