Onewheeler

Don't forget that H2S deadens the sense of smell so it may reach fatal concentration without being noticed.

I like that idea! There aren't any holes in the base of my pump so no change, and I think there are some suitable bits of steel in the garage...

Older Daf engines are reliable and spares fairly readily available. They may well smoke a lot. We have been asked if there is a new pope when we have started ours. It's also noisy and drinks a lot of diesel (Daf 175, 1959 vintage).

Any tips for keeping a Rule submersible bilge pump in place in the stern bilge? A magnet in the filter? The 19 mm hose is inflexible enough that keeping the pump on the base plate is difficult.

My inclination would be to use an intermediate pulley if it can be mounted somewhere suitable.

We've got these: https://bedazzledledlighting.co.uk/product/cab8-brass/ mounted as recessed pairs every 2 m or so, each pair switched. Plenty of light, we seldom have more than half of them on.

Exactly! I've recently replaced my 1 kW IT (the soft-start circuitry had been on the to-do pile for several years!) with a GI so that interruptions to the shore power don't risk the MCB tripping, the charger ceasing to charge and the fridge flattening the batteries. (Also to take advantage of the new, 16A power supplies that the marina has installed). The OP's IT looks like it is just a transformer.

Is there any sort of soft start circuitry in that transformer? Without it you might well find yourself tripping the shore MCB when the power is connected.

I've got one of the ebay ones. Works well but as others have said you usually need to go down one size in the dies. It's very annoying to make what looks a good crimp which can be pulled apart with a tug.

A clunky solution would be a cheap phone in a waterproof enclosure on a stick outside, with a USB lead back to your laptop to charge and tether it.

Whatever power immersion you buy, remember that it should be a marine type. If I remember correctly (I'm sure someone will correct me otherwise, I made a mental note at the time as I was thinking of fitting an external immersion), domestic immersions have a secondary over-temperature thermostat which will trip at something like 70 C and need manually resetting. A marine immersion has a secondary thermostat which trips at a higher temperature to cope with engine heating (will it auto-reset?)

Never heard of any requirement in the UK for inland boating, but I had a pleasant day out from tooley's boatyard in Banbury doing the ICC for the mainland.

There's a huge difference in the aspect ratio between a pipe and a bucket too.

A good point. Most shower controllers of recent years have NRVs to comply with domestic water regs. You can't empty the feed pipes by blowing down them, but you can alternate between fully hot and fully cold settings and suck on each side.

And drain the shower controller, waste pump and fresh water pump.

Not a problem, although I'd rather not have it frotting directly against the collar. So long as there is a space (filled with sealant) it should be OK.

Don't forget to take the spanner off before trying to start the engine. This is the voice of experience 😳

The only stupid question is the one that doesn't get asked... I suppose you have turned the fuel supply back on? I know of someone who didn't, he got a surprising distance before the engine stopped!

Why not ring the supplier and ask them?!

The generator might object to an inductive load on connection. Equally, it might not!

Having only just seen this thread, my advice would be cc'ing in the places you are interested in with a widebeam will be difficult. If you are set on a wide boat, find a marina. Many (most?) are tolerant to people who 'spend a lot of time on their boats' so long as you are good neighbours.

Sharpness for the Vale of Berkeley railway, but you'll have to help lay some track. Lydney Harbour for the Dean Forest railway.

Make sure you can get the old collar off before buying a new one, or you may find you have a new collar and a broken stove.

My enameled flue lasted about 5 years before I put my finger through it. Now using stainless which will outlast me. It wasn't even much more expensive.

It's most likely due to it being an automotive model. We have one, it starts unaided down to battery voltages of about 12.4 V but needs the engine to run for a minute or two to get it going for lower terminal voltages. It's difficult or impossible to convert the automotive version to a marine version according to a Webasto servicing centre.