pirate paul

Hi, there is a Roberts 45 on ebay, Sharpness canal.... any one know the name or email address of the yard she is in? Tar & stuff.

I could have bought a 90w polycrystaline panel for £95.99 yesterday. There some more from the same company (Chinese). This time of year no one is bidding on them.

I have done this and had no probs with over heating even though I had no fan. I did not run it for too long mind you. I had probs with condensation in the exhaust running back into the engine, the exhaust outlet was higher than the geni.

Hi, I drilled a hole in the ali casing, and poked and hooked the cr*p out, then stuck a bolt in the hole with chemical metal. .... Worked ok.

If it is the same as the one on my spare boat, I had the same prob, not only that but the channel through which the water flows became blocked due to corroded alluminium, I had to drill a hole to clear the blockage. It is a screw thread.... I made a new one from copper pipe and stuck it in with liquid/plastic metal or what ever you call the stuff, the stuff for fixing car radiators.

Not sure if I have replied twice to this..... Well, just have to take your word for it. It did not solder because I did not get it hot enough, still it will do for now. The bush arrangement seems the way forward. Back to the K3 tomorrow.

Not the foggiest idea of what you are talking about, its air somewhere but where o where is the air.

You can get replacement switches, the do twang easy, I advise you do not take the switch apart. I am sure the prob is air. There is an air lock, when the tap is turned off the pump stays on for a few moments, pressure builds up in the pipes, the air is compressed, when you open the tap the air can only decompress when some water has been removed from the circuit, the switch can not trigger until the diaphram is decompressed. This explains why it happens.

I have had probs with phone chargers on modified sine wave inverters,they fry easy, battery chargers with battery voltage sensors are problematic on generators, even fairly simple ones with led indicators, they switch themselves off when they think the battery is charged, the unstable generator voltage triggers the cut out. A 12 or 24v engine driven battery charger and a good inverter is a good option for this sort of equipment.

There is air in your pipes, the air is elastic, the delay is caused by the time taken for the air to expand, in my opinion, I do not have an accu tank but I go have the same pump.

I was under the asumption that this was an electric shower, DO NOT FIT 240V ELECTRIC SHOWERS WITH OUT QUALIFIED ADVICE, EXTREAM DANGER OF DEATH.

I have used a Dell desk top on a geni and a modified sine wave inverter. I would not advise it though. The PSU is robust I dont know what the PSU output is like, the inverter flattened the batts pretty quick.

Idont understand the accu stuff bat low no time, air in pipes.

Extreme danger consult a QUALIFIED electritian

I had one of these, it was old when I got it I used it for 10 yrs and passed it on, very reliable, simple, easy to get parts, great company.... just ring them and ask. These combined turgine/digi regulated units dont last, and when they go wrong boy do they do a good job of it.

Looks like mine any way, mine is operated by a diaphram (naff at spelling tried several combinations) which triggers a switch, the reduction in pressure, when the tap is opened, causes a movement of the diaphram, which triggers the switch. Your prob could be back pressure, the hight of the tap, different thicknesses of pipe, the elasticity of the pipe, something along those lines.

K3, If you do use easy start and it does not start use spray oil straight away. Well the thermostart gets hot, I will use thicker wires next time. Working tomorrow morn, busy next week, gona be a couple of weeks before I have time .... See ya then.

I have got one of these works no prob, may be the prob is the hight of water in the pipe,ie how high is the tap from the pipe.

Well er hope you dont mind me using this thread, seems to be lots interested... so ere goes. Hind sight is a wonderful thing.... Holes cut, thermostart is screwed into a solder collar, although the solder did not bond with the brass, it did bond with its self leaving a ring of solder round the inside of the hole.... Hope it is ok when I push the button tomorrow. Poss the reason for the 2 stroke oil (almost back to the thread) is the oil is settled when the engine is not running, it takes a few revolutions for the oil in the sump to circulate.

Switch mode. save the ozone.

Yes but you can switch it off when the battery is charged.

Thanks people, one or two points.... K3, I can decompress individual cylinders, no connecting rod across the top. Someone said the diesel from the thermostart does not light, its just a hot diesel steam, hmmm is this poo. May be if I light it with a match... cabooooooom. hmmmmmm. I am on voda pay as you go, I cannot do you tube links because they cost a fortune. The hole gets drilled tomorrow, any last requests.

Kinda scratchin a bit, may be I have not got my head around it..... the bigger relay would use less power ? I will have to have a think about it I must admit. Perhaps there is a modern device more efficient than the relay. Efficiency is not as important when the engine is running, as it is at 3am in January. Your post is difficult to read, one sentence at a time please.

What is a CTE ? Get your self a pair of rubber wellies, some thick rubber gloves, a chain (metal) link vest and make sure its well bonded to a Qualified electricians earth thing.