henhullpilgrim

Thanks for this... I'll see if I can find a copy of the book.

Not sure Tonka. Thought Norton Canes Boats are the builder at Glascote. Did Reliance precede them perhaps?

Hi. Does anyone know anything about, or have any experience of this hull builder (Reliance Engineering)? Thanks in advance for any info. Brent

Thanks for that guys. Puts my mind at rest. I'll see how it beds in when I return to the water. Cheers.

I've just replaced the packing in my stern gland and am wondering if it's possible to 'overpack' it. Having replaced the previous three rings of packing with three new rings, the propellor shaft turns by hand (she's out of the water) but only if I turn it using the prop to get some leverage. I can't turn it by twisting the shaft alone in the engine compartment (although grease on the shaft doesn't help). I've never had the need to spin the prop around before (unless removing stuff through the weed-hatch) and so have little experience of knowing how readily a prop should 'spin'. The guy next to me can spin his prop around very readily (almost like a spinning plate) although he admits that he's never re-packed the gland in a number of years. Seems almost as though there's zero resistance in his set up. Is this normal for there to be some resistance initially and that will things settle down once the engine gets going and the packing 'beds-in'? I believe that I've used the correct size (8mm) packing. It went into the packing space (and looked very much like the old stuff for size) but did need some persuasion from the packing plate for each ring. Perhaps I needed the 6.7mm packing - does that small diference really matter? The rings were cut carefully too (at 45 degree angles) and I don't believe they're too long and certainly don't overlap. Perhaps I've over tightened the packing plate? Who knows. Any thoughts out there? Brent

Thanks again gazza for your help. I still can't figure out why the fuel pump won't kick in though. I have power to the main unit and the circulation pump starts readily. Just no life in the fuel pump which actually looks pretty new. From your notes above, I'm not sure that the disconnected pins would affect the fuel pump's performance so what's left to go wrong? Faulty cables to the fuel pump? Faulty fuel pump? Faulty internal circuitry on the main unit? Any one had similar issues?

Brother-in-law's 'used' Webasto now fitted and in situ. Suspect it may have been a truck/car unit rather than the marine version. However, brother-in-law got it for a song so worth the gamble versus the cost of a new, marine unit. Switch it on and the unit kicks off (after some work on the main power supply cable) - water pump begins and everything appears promising except that the fuel pump does not start... no fuel and no combustion. So, let's check the cabling loom to see if it's a wiring problem. 1. The main timer unit has only three cables (red, brown and black) and not the four shown in the wiring diagram. Where has the other black gone? No sign of it. Does anyone know what the two blacks are for and then we might know if the missing one is crucial for the fuel pump/combustion bit. 2. Let's check the fuel pump cables... both there (blue and brown)... okay, so 3. Let's go back to the six-pin data plug on the main unit. Strip back the sheath and discover: 3a). Pin No. 1 takes a black cable for the timer unit. Present and correct. 3b). Pin No. 2 takes a yellow cable that is not connected to anything. Worrying & puzzling. 3c). Pin No. 3 takes a black cable that is not connected to anything. Worrying & puzzling. Is this the missing timer unit black? If so, why is it not connected? 3d). Pin No. 4 takes a green/white cable that is connected to the relay unit. Present and correct. 3e). Pin No. 5 takes a lilac cable that is not connected to anything. Worrying & puzzling. 3f). Pin No. 6 takes a blue cable that is connected to the fuel pump. Present and correct. Any observations or suggestions? I warned y'all it was just a tad nerdy! Regards Brent

Thanks for the manuals... very helpful. Connector is on its way as we speak.

Thanks. I've sent him an email. Hopefully, this will prove positive.

I'm helping my brother-in-law to fit his Webasto (purchased second hand). It's seems fine but the wiring loom has seen better days. In particular, the connectors (two of them) which are used to connect the loom to the main unit could do to be replaced. One of them suplies the 12v power and the other is used for the glow plug, water pump etc. Does anyone know where they can be purchased easily? Thanks in advance.

Funnily enough, I did the very same thing myself when fitting on my own boat four years ago. At the time I was told (rightly or wrongly) that all joints had to be compression! Having viewed the Webasto servicing guide on this site, I now realise that I'll face problems taking the unit apart (just as you must have). As a matter of interest, how did you remove the olive on the unit's fuel intake? Regards Brent

The boat is four years old. Interestingly, the engine fuel feed pipe is on the starboard side (not the port side)... diectly below the filler cap. This caused a problem earlier this month when the engine stopped just 15 minutes after filling up. We suspect the force of new fuel entering the tank had disturbed something that was quickly sucked into the draw-off pipe. We disconected the pipe at the filter and blew air back up the pipe and into the tank. This cleared the blockage. The drain plug on this boat is on the port side.

I'm helping a friend to fit a Webasto on his Liverpool Boat. Just wondered if anyone had any tips, especially regarding the fuel pipe. The boat's tank does not come witha spare standpipe (as did my Price Fallows shell) to take the supply from and so we plan to tap into the diesel tank, using the Webasto fuel pipe as supplied. This will mean entering the tank's vertical bulkhead, in the engine bay, just under the rear deck. Any tips or cautionary notes appreciated. Any good/bad experiences appreciated. Also, the kit does not come with any sort of fuel filter/water trap. We plan to leave about 4" of clearance from the bottom of the tank to the tip of the draw off but it just seems wierd to not put some sort of device in the line to prevent contamination reaching the in-line fuel pump. Any thoughts or ideas? Many thanks in advance Brent

Thanks Roger... I suspect that this boat may well have been wired by the same work experience youngster as your boat. I have resisted talking down the build quality so far, just in case there were compelling technical reasons for the way the boat had been wired. However, I'm beginning to gravitate towards the conclusion that poor build quality is the only rational explanation. Arghhhh! But thanks... Brent Hi Mike When the fridge is disconnected, the ignition key invokes the usual 'alarm' when turned to the first position. When the key is turned to the 'glow plug' position, the glow plug light does not illuminate and upon turning the key to the starting position, the alarm goes off and the engine fails to turn over. However, there is a clicking noise which appears to be coming from what looks like a relay that feeds the glow plugs. Reconnect the fridge and everything works perfectly. Very puzzling. Regards Brent

Thanks for your help anyway Rick. Thanks for you help Chris. The fuse in question is 15 amps. However, the cable is quite separate from the main supply cable to the starter motor. It's simply 'added' to the starter motor side of the start battery isolation switch and is routed into the main boat via the engine room bulkhead. We assume it goes to the switch panel but cannot be sure without removing internal wall panels. Puzzling.

We removed the fuse on the cable to nowhere and tried everything powered by 12 volts and they all still worked. That included all the nav lights (which feature on the main switch panel) and the horn. I certainly believe that the wires may have been the wrong way around since delivery but everything aboard has worked. It's just that the fridge appears to be draining the starter battery (that it shouldn't be connected to in the first place) and disconnecting it leaves us mysteriously with no engine start. This is even though the main connection to the starter motor remains in tact. I always tend to gravitate towards common sense and logic to solve things (dangerous strategy somertimes I know) but this setup doesn't make sense and appears to defy logic.

Thanks for you thoughts. I agree that the fridge appears to be connected to the starter battery... but why then, does disconnecting it immobilise the engine? I just don't understand that. Perhaps this is a Shoreline/Isuzu hybrid To the best of my knowledge, the coloured wires have never been disconnected from the fuse box. My brother-in-law would not touch them and I don't remember anyone else 'playing about' with the boat electrics since he purchased it. I'm confident that they remain as fiited by Liverpool Boats. Still puzzled. Thanks for your thoughts. The boat was partly fitted out by Liverpool on purchase. This included all electrics and plumbing. The only jobs left for self-fitting were cabinet work. I just don't understand why anyone would wire a fridge to the starter battery or why disconnecting it immobilises the engine. Thanks for that info. I honestly can't remember seeing the white (thermal fuse) button. If it is there then that would solve one mystery i.e. the missing bilge fuse. For now, we've connected the bilge pump to the domestic batteries and will add an 'always-on' busbar and fuse in due course. I'm still convinced that the fridge is the drain on the starter battery but disconnecting it means we can't start the engine.

Hi My first posting after many months of gleaning much valuable info... Just wondered if any owners of a Liverpool Boat might be able to help with this mystery. Happy to take suggestions from anyone else too as I'm completely stumped with this one. My brother-in-law has a 58' semi-trad Liverpool Boat. He's owned it for two years or so. His starter battery keeps letting him down which is disturbing as he's already replaced it once due to failure of the original. Thank heavens for jump leads. He asked me if I had any thoughts on why the battery is not recharging and so we spent this weekend investigating. I'm confident (after testing) that the alternator (twin alternator Isuzu engine) is operating perfectly well and putting charge back into the starter battery. What worries me is the following: 1. The bilge pump was contected directly to the starter battery via its stern on/off switch. No sign of a fuse or an 'always-on bar'. I know that this is not the best setup but surely this wouldn't be likely to cause the flattening of the starter battery would it? He has a rear canopy and the pump rarely kicks in as his bilges are reasonably dry. Any way, I suggested he rewires the pump to his domestics until we can setup an 'always-on' bar. 2. Coming off his starter battery isolation switch is a red cable (in addition to the cable leading to his starter motor) that leads to a small fuse box with a 15 amp blade fuse. This fuse box is attached to his wooden battery box. The cable becomes brown at the other side of the fuse box (why the colour switch?) and is routed into the main cabling network, bound (we assume) for the main switch panel that is located mid-ships. It's difficult to be certain without removing internal panels as the cabling enters the boat through a bulkhead between the engine compartment and the bedroom. When the fuse is removed, the fridge stops working. More puzzling, the engine will not fire up either, even though the starter motor cable is still connected. Replace the fuse and both the fridge and engine work again. The fridge is also controlled from the main switch panel and I can't think why you have a 15 amp fuse cable off the starter battery as well as a 15 amp panel switch too! 3. Even more intriguing, is the fact that coming directly off the domestic isolator switch is a brown cable that is routed to the same fuse box as above. It carries a 5amp fuse. The cabling leaves this fuse as red cable (why the colour switch) and also joins the main cabling network, passing through the bulkhead and presumeably heading for the switch panel. Remove the fuse and everything on the 12 volt system continues to work. The cable to nowhere? Why would you change the cable colours at a fuse box? Is this a secret method of cabling known only to electricians? Why would you have a fuse box in the engine bay (when you've got a switch panel mid-ships) and why would you connect the fridge to the starter battery, using it? Why would disconnecting the fridge imobilise the engine? Have any of you Liverpool Boat folks got the same setup and if so, can you explain? Many thanks in advance.