W+T

Thats one problem, if you can see it as a problem as once it is sealed in then it should be fine...or not? as with using polystyrene. I am sure its not fire retardent but will see. I ahve looked at the spray foam and like the idea of it, but i hear a lot of difficultys in over spray and cutting back mess, this thought will avoid all that as if you do the cladding at say 12" first from the bottom obviously then pour the first an so on , like they shutter concrete. It hainly a thought for uneven huls where ther are rubbing strakes to get around instaed of cutting strips to fill them to fill all gaps, and as said it could be easyer than spraying. And its just an idea, it may never work, but worth a thought. Can you find the cost of the SR foam, i cant find on there.

Ok it dont sound easy to do, it s not a new thing so somebody on here has proably seen it beofre but i have never heard of it being tryed as using to insulate a boat, it is used as bouyancy pockets in boats in construction. It is the same stuff, well similar to the expanding foam in cans, you mix two liquids and the you have it but it starts to expand fairly soon so you need to be quick. It expands to 10 times in volume also. Has anyone heard of a similar stuff?

I remember from a few years ago about REP foam sheets used in mold making plus lots of other things, it also comes in liquid form so it can be poured into cavitys, this could be good for cruiser boats which habe more dificult places to get to with sheet insulation. I know theres spary foam but this could be cheaper, if i get the info on this stuff is there anyone interested for me to pass it on, i should have it through in a few days. One put of mite be that it has similar fire resistance as polystyrene. wayne

I have a box full of Sikaflex 221, should do a good job, anyone udes that before for fixing kingspan boards? Wayne

I understand now, thnaks fella./ Now been looking through this site and come to a finla decision...so i say, lets see if i am correct now Glue kingspan of 25mm to the hull all over and every square mm tight to the battens that will grped into place for fitting 3mm ply to and covering the ply with a carpet type material to prevent any condensation, this will done from under the gunnels to the floor which is grp bonded into place, all cupboards and closed spaces will have ventilation top and bottom. Go on, i am slow but i get there in the end.....i think

This my plastic (GRP Cruiser) which i am refitting Should give an idea of the hull shape. The floor is of plywood with grp bonded edges 2" above the bilge and 6" above keel. Dont want to be a pain but if i was to fit the kingspan direct to the hull like i was with the bubble stuff, what is the difference when the bubble is fitted the same way with no air pockets and all joins as with the kingspan, filled but with foil tape. Is it that it is foil faced? just curious. If i was going to stick the insulation to the hull then there would be no condensation to run....yes? I think i can get away with bending the 1" kingspan and if need be use two layers, i have seen score board type foam sheets , or even do my own, but then there will loads of tiny air pockets on the hull side, mmm not good.

I agree matey, just seen the cost of the kits and for mine it will cost around £250 for a 1" layer, i know its the best from what most say but thats a bit much to me, so next is as you say and use kingspan, i have found loads for sale and at very good price. So what thickness? best way to fit? onto battons with a 1" air gap and plastic sheet over battens then kinspan and cladding? One point of concern still is in my boat the floor is boneded in place so the condensation will run down and settle on the floor not the bolge, is this how cruisers are normaly built, i have had 2 small cruisers in the past and these had bonded floors also, but didnt have them long enough to see about the effects of condensation. Is £12 a sheet of kingspan reasonable, loads on ebay.

Ok then i will keep the bubble wrap for my parcels Spary fome then....let me see where i can get the DIY kits from, will have a google and see what you folk can recomend for a good job. I beleive its tricky to do as you need to get a even layer, i have done a bit of car body work and complete cars, this could come in handy. thanks for the help. wayne

If this is anygood, found a tech site for it http://www.thermal-economics.co.uk/pdfs/Br...s%20iss%202.pdf It shows the two types mine is the 1L1 type.

Thanks all for the replys, much appreciated. Maaybe i should of mentioned that it wil be fitted to a GRP boat, sorry, does that make any difference though in what the affect will be? Shame if its no good as got loads spare, i have found these details on what i have ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Alreflex 1L1 `This new, second generation product provides a major improvement in terms of thermal resistance over previous foil/bubble products, and is available with a Class ‘O’ fire rating High Performance Insulation Systems Meets new Approved Document L requirements for 2002. Economic solution to achieve U-values as low as 0.25 W/m2K Meets NHBC Technical Requirements Alreflex 1L1 & 2L2 are the only BBA certified Foil/Bubble Pack Cavity Insulation and Rain Barrier products Unique Class ‘O’ fire performance grade CFC and HCFC free This is also suitable for target U-value calculations for New Approved Document L 2002. Eliminates water penetration across cavity Forms integral insulating DPC at reveals Easy installation` ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I cant find anything about how long it lasts though, well this product. Cant see it failing in the short term though as it is used in house cavitys/lofts etc. Can foil and the bubble material, i guess a type of plastic fail? I found that it is as affective as 2" rockwool, well thats what they say! BUt i have enough to have 2 layers so double the effect? So then if this stuff is no good then what can you suggest for a GRP boat, and best way to fit it. It will have a stove on board so condensation will be less than with LPG. How thick would i need the kingspan? I know a lot of questions but i need to understand all this so once again thanks and all help welcome. Thanks wayne

Tell me if i am going to do this wrong and if it wont work please. I am on plaaning to glue a layer of the foil backed bubble insulation direct to the hull between battens (which side should i glue?) which are fixed inplace, i will be doing from the gunnals to the bonded floor which is below water level, then as i have plenty another layer on top (either foil to foil or which ever you suggest) , overall 20mm thick, on top of that caldding it with PVC sheets ( no air pocket as the cladding will be touching the insulation) in the cabin but ply inside the cupboards etc. The PVC cladding is also a slighlty insulant so also reduces condesation, so on my reconing it will reduce more condensation. How does that sound then? Any advice welcome, please. wayne .

Thank you for that reply, although it has answered another question i was thinking about. . I did not say in my first post but is is mainly a question to boats that are to be moored and not being moved.

Hi Folks, was just wondering if you could tell me how much of a pain in the rear it is when the cut freezes over, does it worry you about what damage it is doing to your paint work around the hull, moreso on GRP hulls. Would you ever consider investing in a form of hull protection during the frozen months. What would you say is worth spending on such an item if it was not a big deal to store on board or take home to store. Just an idea i have and needing a little reasearch Thanks Wayne