David Mack
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Posts posted by David Mack
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Who said we break any rules.
We help when it is safe to do so and wont cause damage or danger to our own vessel.
No rules broken.
If you had cleats rated at 2.5 tonnes strain would you tow a beached steel boat weighing much more with them?
My experience of grounding in a narrow boat is that it is not static bollard pull that gets you free, its the snatch when the rope goes taught and the momentum of the pulling boat is applied to the stuck boat. So whilst I would hope a reasonably heavy, but not necessarily powerful boat would help us get free, I would know that the likes of Naughty Cal, however willing, would probably not succeed. And so I might expect to receive their sympathy but also see them pass on by.
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Offers to transfer balances (AKA Junk mail) and increase my current lending by extending and increasing my current loan.
But all those "you have been pre-approved..." and "personal quotations" and the like might evaporate if you actually fill in the form saying you live on a boat!
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Thats a pretty unmaintanable detail. There's no way you could properly prepare and paint that steel, even if the rust and pitting hadn't got a hold.
As others have said, take an angle grinder to the edges of the tunnels, and grind down flush with the roof. I woudl be inclined to do the same with the tubes outside and inside so you just have circular holes which you can then fit conventional vents over.
You could leave the internal tube as a sleeeve through the cabin lining/insulation, but I suspect a steel sleeve would be prone to condensation, and a separate plastic tube or a brass liner not in intimate contact with the shell would be better.
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"Now further reduced"
Apollo Duck Linky for butty Lyra
I think R W Davies have already treated the boat very unsympathetically, and now, like several other buttys, it remains at risk of not ending up a butty.
(Of particular interest to me, as my late brother owned it for a short while).
What have they done unsympathetically (apart from the threat of motorising it)?
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I have seen some Black prince narrow boats where the gunnel steps down 4-6 inches in the lounge to accommodate larger windows.
And a right hazard it is too, when you're walking along the gunwales!
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Got one of them...somewhere! Charity shop books are alot cheaper than kindle books though! I guess another alternative would be to join a library though.
Or use the charity shop as the library - pay a little when you take a book out, then donate it back again when you've read it.
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Two converted ones here which I think we decided were Wey and Aye.
A Geordie pair?
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The last time I was on the Nene, I was 15 - long before elfinsafety was invented (by some bored jobsworth). Blimey, since then they have really gone to town with desicrating every nice rural lock with stupid ridiculous signage. At least two per lock. And BIG.
Nene locks by nick.norman, on Flickr
Come the revolution, it will be an executable offence to put up stupid arse covering signs such as these. Where a hazard might not be expected I can grudgingly accept the need, such as those signs in supermarkets saying "wet floor" that are in reality a trip hazard (need another sign saying "caution, trip hazard ahead!"). But if you are outside and it is raining, anyone who needs a sign telling them that smooth surfaces may be wet and slippery, need to become a follower of Darwin.
But apart from all the rubbish on the bottom 2/3rds of the sign, why do we need to be welcomed to Weston Favell Lock? Wouldn't the name alone have sufficed?
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In the 1970's Harborough Marine (in Market Harborough) built a great many boats with identical steel hulls (apart from the length) and tops made from GRP sections.
As did others including Teddesley Boat Centre and Shropshire Union Cruisers.
There's an article about a Shroppie grp topped boat in the latest Waterways World.
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http://www.birdbrand.co.uk/acatalog/Traditional_Creosote.html. But for professional users only, and none available for the rest of the year.Where did you get the creosote from (I love that smell btw).
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The important sentence for the likes of us is *the survey is carried out for the sole use of the above named client and his insurers.*
I wasn't querying that bit. That means thatnobody else can rely on the survey in law, even if they have seen it or got hold of a copy. But that doesn't mean any of the content is legally privileged.
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I've just received my survey report and in the pre-amble is this:
DATA PROTECTION
The information contained in this report is the intellectual property of S.R. Marine Surveys Ltd. This document contains confidential information that is legally privileged and is intended for the use of the addressee only. All information contained herein is covered by the EU Data Protection Directive (95/46/EC). the survey is carried out for the sole use of the above named client and his insurers.
That seems to say it all.
Cheers,
T.
But does it actually contain confidential information that is legally privileged? Or is the surveyor just trying to protect his commercial position?
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Anyone tempted to skimp on the safety features of their boat should be made to watch that video. despite the intense heat generated, it's chilling. I hope that there was no one on board.
Anyone tempted to skimp on the safety features of their boat should be made to read this:
http://maib.gov.uk/publications/investigation_reports/2007/lindy_lou.cfm
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Hi Richard, he asked me about any low bridges in the area and said that you can remove the terminal quickly with the use of a standard allen key. If you can find that number that would be great!
Remove it with an allen key? How do you do that when you've just realised that the bridge is too low for the chimney and you need to remove it NOW?
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A dektite flashing is just the job if you want a stove installed in a shed. But completely wrong for a boat. With a dektite, the flue will pass straight through and you won't be able to fit a removable chimney, which is essential if your boat is actually to move anywhere.
That your installer hasn't understood this point seems to me to be good enough reason to go elsewhere.
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A44.75 13X1145Li 1175 LP
The key numbers here are 1145 (Length) x 13 (width) in millimetres.
A bit of googling on 13x1145 suggests this or this.
There appear to be several ways of measuring length - internal (Li) external (La) or something in-between (Lp). I think this article (or this one) explains, but it is not quite clear if this relates to automotive/marine engine parts.
So in addition to working out which length measurement you need (1145 Li = internal), you also need the profile/shape. Mine is a SPZ 10 x 1000 La for example, which is easy to source.
The A indicates an A section v belt which is 0.5 inch / 13mm wide.
The belt you want has an internal length (Li) of 1145 mm and a pitch length (Lp) of 1175mm. The Kramp belt in Simon's second link looks a bit short (Li = 1145-63 = 1082mm). I would suggest this which has an internal length of 1145mm.
I think the 44.75 in the reference is the nominal length in inches, but since 44.75 inches = 1137mm there seems to be some rounding going on between the imperial and metric dimensions.
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Hi richard,
It's hard to measure super accurately.. But it's very close to being 2 inches & 3 inches... Given her age, I figure it makes sense to give you the diameters in inches...
Hope that helps?!
Or do I need I get a proper measuring device involved, that will clasp the propshaft and give a super accurate reading? I just used a tape measure...
Mx
Or for a more accurate measurement clean off the areas to be measured, then wrap a strip of paper right round and mark off the circumference. Flatten out the paper and measure. Divide by pi to get the diameter.
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Apparently FMC boats didn't need portholes, as when it was light the crew were supposed to be outside working, and when it was dark they should be inside asleep!
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The lamps used in GUCCCo boats were Lucas units "off the shelf". They were a round bakerlite surround with a shell pattern glass (frosted), The lamps mention in relation to Tycho etc are old but are seat lights from railway stock.
Albert Jagger of Walsall used to list the modern equivalent of them but no longer has them in the present catalogue.
Do you have a picture of one?
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Asap Supplies sell a suitable L-Port valve, which you can use to select between the two hot water sources.
Do not use a T-port valve, which can connect both sources to the taps.
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In the absence of knowing what the correct thread is, can you attach a new grease nipple or off-the-shelf greaser to a similar diameter tube, and then connect to the grease point on the boat using flexible hose and jubilee clips? A bit of a bodge, but it would enable Marcus to grease it regularly until you can find the right fitting.
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We have a trad stern and longish tiller which, although it won't catch on lock walls (tends to self-centre) means that to step off the boat from the driving step, the tiller needs to be one way or the other. On one of these locks I just pushed past the tiller to step off but mistimed it slightly so that I momentarily started to get caught between the wall of the lock steps and the end of the tiller that I was just passing. I felt slight pressure from both sides but cleared the tiller just in time! Had I been slower or later I think I might have been impaled by the tiller because although it is of course rounded and wooden, it is chunky and 20 tonnes of boat doing just 1mph creates a lot of force.
Surely in this situation you push the tiller across to the opposite side from that you are getting off, so you can step out from the hatches, and you are then on the back deck alongside the tiller, and so not at risk of being speared by the end.
I've had the boat drift backwards and the rudder catch in the mitre of the bottom gates.
Your stern fender should project back beyond the back of the rudder (and the swan neck), so that if anything gets caught in the gates its the fender, which will be pretty obvious.
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And in the context of a butty it is worth noting that Basis Boat's Summary of Cover says:
"No cover is provided if you are towing any person, boat or toy on water"
So your moored up butty might be OK, but I suspect if it is being towed it would not be covered. The towing boat certainly won't be covered if it also has a Basic Boat policy.
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Here's the relevant section from the survey.
A Hull sides: Originally fabricated from nominal 5mm steel plate to an adequate standard. The sides have been overplated with nominal 4mm & 5mm steel plate to a poor standard, as multiple sections have been used, and the butt welds have been poorly applied. Ultrasonic measurements were taken with a Tritex 5500 triple echo meter with a 13mm probe. The side plates had a covering of marine growth and were not pressure washed prior to inspection. Approximately thirty sample areas were selected at random and prepared for inspection. From the sample areas selected, ultrasonic measurements show the plate thickness to be between 2mm and 5mm, which are not within acceptable limits. Light pitting corrosion is present and the maximum pit depth measured was approx. 0.8mm. The hull blacking is in a serviceable condition. Rec 1: Overplate the sides with 5mm steel
No this is the sides up to the waterline the base plate is fine 5.8mm mostly
Given that survey report, the only sensible solution for this boat is to remove all the existing overplating and then to overplate it again (doing the job properly this time). That way you get rid of all the bodgery, and potentially have a boat as good as any other that has been overplated.
Depending on what the boat has in terms of insulation and fitout, you may or may not have to also do quite a lot of ripping out and refitting internally.
This will all cost, and unless you get the boat at a good enough price, and are prepared to put up with the hassle and delay while the work is done, then its probably better to walk away.
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And even when you can edit your own post you can't edit where someone else has already quoted it.