nb Innisfree
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Posts posted by nb Innisfree
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I must keep reminding myself that I am unique, just like everyone else.
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IMO our genetic map is drawn when we are born or conceived, our sexual orientation, along with other things doesn't really change but as we grow older we hopefully become more self aware and slowly discover ourselves. I say hopefully but it seems some probably don't see, or refuse to see, their true human nature be it sexual or otherwise, instead preferring to stick with what they consider to be their identity.
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I spent hours sat on a pretend toilet deciding on optimum size of toilet/shower room.
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My first attempt at designing a nb layout finished up with a cabin 100' long, and that was trying to be realistic!
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6 minutes ago, LadyG said:
So your partition walls are determined by the location of the bearers, so if they are six feet apart your bathroom is either six foot wide or twelve foot wide.
I give up.
For the best I think, you could damage your brain.
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One upon a time I was chatting to a diy fitter who had a "fantastic" idea to cut all his bulkheads in one go, "save time" he said, fortunately for him someone pointed out the variations in a hull, the look on his face was classic.
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Every hull varies in dimensions, even same design by same builder, one day they might be built by robots and computers, millimetre identical, then they could be mass produced. Not before I die though I think.
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3 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Traditionally on cruisers and as I understand yachts all the floor sections could be lifted with the partitions supporting the edges of the floor. Only narrowboats seem to put all the floors down and the build the portions on top. Cruisers and I suspect yachts only stopped doing it the traditional way when they started moulding the hull inner mouldings.
It's done because it's quick and easy.
Too much vertical thinking.
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11 minutes ago, blackrose said:
I met a couple on a boat where every single built in cupboard, wall panel and floor panel could be easily dismantled and removed if required. They were obviously made small and manageable. It was a work of art.
Ideally all boats would be made this way. You wouldn't need inspection hatches if you could easily remove any section of floor that you wanted to.
It could be done economically on a large scale with proper design. But why bother if boats are selling.
4 minutes ago, LadyG said:My saloon is 10ft along one side, twelve feet on the other and maybe 6 ft 6 inches wide, if I ever needed to lift it I'd be in big trouble.
Who said it had to be in one piece?
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4 minutes ago, LadyG said:
I can't imagine why anyone would have individual floors in each room. If, for example I wanted to build the galley floor, with the dining floor adjacent, where would the join be that would allow you to lift the galley floor, and the dining floor. Would it be under the partition wall?
Do you remove all the cabinets first. Surely you don't expect to ever lift the floor, a few inspection hatches may be needed, but if the floors need to be removed, something has gone wrong.
The use of laminate flooring, carpet, vinyl, engineered wood etc are the wearing surfaces, surely they sit on top of the flooring boards in most cases.
I think there are some things on these boats which are tried and tested, once you've lined the walls with ply, you won't want to take it down every few years.
That's my point, no imagination! 🤣
You are thinking of conventional boats built to sell at a profit.
Everything removable, takes thinking outside of the conventional box, it's not rocket science.
Partition wall sits on bearers, floor buts up to it, screwed to a strip of ply between bearers, only downside is only one room can be lifted at once, handy for adjusting ballast for ongoing improvements, similar with wall lining.
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20 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Yes, but yours was new and by the way you write it already had the engine and at least rudimentary electrics installed. It was not an old hull with an engien that needed fitting and wiring.
Bare shell, nothing fitted, I sourced everything and finished up with a bespoke boat.
In some ways it was easier, trying to persuade builders to do things in an unorthodox way would never have worked, there was enough hassle with folk telling me I was doing it all wrong and said it wouldn't work, shaking of heads, for instance some didn't understand why I was going to the trouble of designing the floor and lining to be individually removable in each room, they were genuinely puzzled, it just wasn't done that way. They were wrong so I just ignored them.
Looking at the lack of imagination and basic incompetence I can see why folk have probs with their builders. If you want a job doing properly diy is my motto though health probs prevents me doing it now.
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7 hours ago, MtB said:
And money.
The cost will exceed just buying a complete and working second hand similar boat, I'd predict.
Maybe but in our case we finished up with a boat with loads of extras that would have cost much more new and I couldn't possibly find a boat with all the fitout I wanted.
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3 minutes ago, Slim said:
When my wife died I decided to buy a new 55' hull and fit it out myself from scratch. Everything, including a mutual and bolt engine rebuild. I was still working. It took me well over 5 years to get to a stage w1here it could reasonably be used for day trips and several more before it was completed (almost). Technically I was a competent amateur with a background of off-shore sailing. It's not a quick job and multiply any imagined costs by two, maybe 3.
Endless enthusiasm, determination and patience is required IMO
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Beware of taking advice, well meaning but listen to it and then make up your mind, as an example I asked a few experienced builders and fitters opinions on ballasting but they all disagreed with each other, I decided to do the maths myself, the result seemed a bit odd and everyone said it was wrong, I trusted my maths and went ahead. On the day of the launch a local boat builder stated a rule of thumb with ballasting and much to my relief it agreed with my findings, hour later Innisfree was floating with a nearly prefect trim.
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I knew nothing about boats, We were recently just retired (2002) so I researched for a year, hardly able to sleep for excitement, I then single handed fitted out a new shell from scratch, full time living on site in a caravan age 55. Taking my time to try and avoid costly mistakes it took me almost 2 years to get it on the water, that was all diy with the exception of spray foam. It was an enjoyable but very steep learning curve, fuelled by intense enthusiasm and the support of my amazing wife. The result was 5 happy years as full time ccers.
Stay realistic and don't underestimate the effort needed.
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Romantic innit?
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10 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:
Thank goodness for that
Close shave eh?
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18 minutes ago, MtB said:
Should have needed at least 26.0v to get you to 100% SoC, assuming you have a 24v boat.
Probably, can't recall exactly, 29.2v? (8x 120ah AGM - didn't dare go over 14.6v per batt)
It was 15 yrs ago and boat was sold in 2015.
1 hour ago, Machpoint005 said:You don't use power from batteries, you use energy.
Ooo you technical thing you.
40 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:If that voltage is correct something somewhere is wrong.
Why?
Penny just dropped, I meant boat was fitted with 12v batts wired in series/parallel to give 24v, should have said full charge was reached at 0.2 amps @29.2v
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11 minutes ago, Peugeot 106 said:
Agreed. I’m 72 this year and I nearly dislocated my shoulder. Suggest the elderly and infirm take care and find a fit youth to do the drilling. It’s not skilled but definitely can require some strength especially if it sticks. Action and Reaction are opposite and equal
I slid a long tube over the side handle, along with my home brewed device it turned a very physical effort into little effort. Brains, not brawn.
I'm 76 now and shoulders still ok! 🙂
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Skin fittings: When I fitted out Innisfree (2003 to 2005) I cut something like 12 or 13 holes in 6mm steel, 2 size of bi-metal hole saw, no lubrication and loads of pressure, very rapid, hole saws still sharp and now sitting in my w'shop, though mains drill never quite recovered.
ETA: It took a very strenuous effort so after the first few holes I made up a spring loaded nut & bolt device to apply the pressure while drill did the turning.
18 minutes ago, nb Innisfree said:Skin fittings: When I fitted out Innisfree (2003 to 2005) I cut something like 12 or 13 holes in 6mm steel, 2 size of bi-metal hole saw, no lubrication and loads of pressure, very rapid, hole saws still sharp and now sitting in my w'shop, though mains drill never quite recovered.
ETA: It took a very strenuous effort so after the first few holes I made up a spring loaded nut & bolt device to apply the pressure while drill did the turning.
It took 2 drills actually, first one, 240v 700 odd watts 2 speed 'box soon burnt out, 2nd one was a 240v Dewalt single variable speed, though it smoked a few times it carried on giving good service for a few years before departing to Dewalt heaven, amazing tool RIP.
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6 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:
At 24 volts?
At 24 volts?
This may be a repeat as the last reply just disappeared.
At 24 volts?
Wierd, yes 24v
Just now, nb Innisfree said:Wierd, yes 24v
I blame Alien interference
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45 minutes ago, MtB said:
Quite.
ISTR reading the Trojan battery instructions and they say something to the effect of "Recharge the battery after every discharge". Utterly impractical in the real world as putting back the top 1% of charge your fridge just took out of the batteries, takes hours.
And full recharging is not going to happen before the fridge needs to run again, so that instruction is rarely likely to be met on a boat in regular use, especially not a liveaboard.
Once we were on a hook up and Victron was on charger only, ie no output from batts, it took 72 hrs to go from from 80% to 100% SoC before charge stabilised, approx 0.2 amps @24v.
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1 hour ago, Bee said:
Batteries are horrible things. If only they had a lid so you could open the top and have a look to see if they were full or empty. What most of us don't realise is just how long it takes to charge a couple or three batteries. On Bee we have 2 x 110 AH batteries - or that is what they were 4 years ago, it takes 4 or 5 hours to charge them from the engine and no doubt you could squeeze a bit more in from a decent charger. We look after them and don't flatten them or they will play tricks like saying they are charged when in fact they are scrap. We now have a bit of solar (not much, just one panel of 30 watts????) and I think it is brilliant, it saves batteries from death and although it cannot power the boat it works all the daylight hours. This summer I will add another one.
A few hours to replace power used maybe, but it takes a minimum of 24hrs to fully recharge so in reality if batts are used they will never reach a full charge, at best just a slow deterioration.
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I used to be undecided but now I'm not so sure.
Victron inverter/ batteries/ solar recommendations
in Boat Equipment
Posted · Edited by nb Innisfree
FWIW when fitting out Innisfree I installed Victron 24-300-70 Multiplus, 8x110 ah FLA & 100amp 24v alternator. Worked a treat no issues, 1st set of batteries lasted 2 years, 2nd set (8x120ah AGM) lasted 8years, still OK when boat was sold, this was despite me nearly killing AGMs with too low charge voltage (thought they were older American type)
Well impressed with them.