nb Innisfree
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Posts posted by nb Innisfree
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Innisfree's alternator (24v 10a) would give full output at approx 1400 engine rpm when cold but once it got hot it would need about 1800rpm, a good case for extra cooling.
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10 minutes ago, magnetman said:
Maybe they could limit the marketing to relatively short people.
If the cap fits etc...
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Don't forget you can't have a shallower draft without less interior headroom, modern canal boats are usually approx 7' from exterıor surface of bottom plate to top of roof to ensure bridge and canal bed clearance, (when going under bridge) I doubt there is enough space for conventional concrete ballast.
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10 hours ago, hoopdriver said:
Thank you. Pardon my ignorance- what kind of extra cooling do you mean and how would one add it?
Some sort of fan cooling, bringing cool outside air, would take a bit of inventiveness to achieve.
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It could be the alternator playing up as it reaches a certain temp, changing the it for a new one, or one that works OK would be my next step, expensive maybe but it will eliminate a poss prob, if it doesn't work you have a spare.
Also I would look at introducing some extra cooling for the alternator.
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Last gale blew a roof tile off, replaced it couple of weeks ago and roofer noticed a few of our ridge tiles were loose, he bedded them back on last week, looking at the wind today we've prob had a close shave! + I've moved the car away from the house.
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4 hours ago, Peugeot 106 said:
So it looks like the engine is best not run over winter if it can only be lightly loaded which is the case with me and I only have a 45 Amp alternator unless I go on a trip which I do add odd times. The batteries aren’t a problem as I leave them on trickle charge all winter but I can’t easily load the engine. I do visit the boat at least once a month or after any big storms to check it over. Would it be a good idea to turn it over with the stop pulled out to circulate the oil or will that accelerate engine wear as well? What is best practise?
I would give a few turns on the starter with stop out until oil pressure gauge registers. won't do any harm and will circulate oil.
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In the old days of petrok/diesel cars I used to notice in cold weather that it took about an hour for the heater to reach max output and the engine sort of 'peaked', I assumed it was because the engine & g'box had reached its max temp indicated by oil temp if a gauge was available, same with the boat, very gentle at first and gradually increase load to ensure it warms up quickly.
With Innisfree I had the facility to preheat the engine which in very cold weathers could still take 15 mins or so at normal canal cruising speed to reach that point, without preheating it could take well over 2 hrs, so my advice would be to load the engine as soon as it is warm.
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But then reduced draft would mean reduced air draft as o/a boat height allows clearance between canal bed and bridge arch.
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12 minutes ago, nb Innisfree said:
5'7" before ballast etc, so useless for me at 6'
I always fancied a nb in marine aluminium.
My mistake, 6' 6" height would be good
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5'7" before ballast etc, so useless for me at 6'
I always fancied a nb in marine aluminium.
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2 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:
Agreed. I have always eaten proper food, my parents absolutely always bought proper milk and butter and never any form of spread rubbish. I have plenty of fry ups for brekky, my cholesterol is bang on. A varied diet as you say combining meat, dairy and fruit and veg is what any sensible diet consists of. Even smelly fish if you must 🤪
Back in the day I used to quaff 3 pints of full cream milk per day, proper milk with cream on top, then I got worried and switched to semi skimmed then fully skimmed and 'healthy' veg spread, about 15 yrs later I looked at veg spread ingredients vs butter, I thought to myself what the hell was I thinking? So I quickly went back to butter (Lurpak) and whole milk though I'm not sure about homogenised.
Cheddar cheese 😋
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We're all gonna die!... 😱
...one day
Life is a sexually transmitted terminal condition.
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5 hours ago, Tonka said:
I have done a medical study over many years and concluded that the only people with high cholesterol are those that have had their 5 yrs acholesterol measured
25 yrs ago I took a cholesterol test and it was very good, 5 yrs ago reading was the same but it was not good, a week later it had dropped 2 or 3 points and it was good, meanwhile low cholesterol is linked to higher cancer risk 😵💫
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11 minutes ago, blackrose said:
How are your cholesterol levels?
I'm sure one could find other reputable studies saying the opposite.
High cholesterol runs in my family genetically rather than because of bad diet, and in my case reducing or eliminating consumption of the stuff you eat also reduces my cholesterol levels.
That's just my experience but I'm sure I feel equally vindicated as you do.
Mine are OK. Yes there are lots of conflicting reports, it's just the link dubious link between AHA and P&G + the healthy claims about transfats years ago which turned out to be unhealthy and other things, I do think big business influences advice on diet.
I agree on inherited things, mine is high blood pressure, it was perfect until my early 50s when it began to rise so I am now forced to take medication. I understand we are all different, I was just pointing out things that I think most people weren't aware of, no judgement.
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For years now I've abandoned low fat diets, instead I eat butter, hard cheese and eggs, cook with lard, beef dripping.
Reading about this stuff recently I was surprised at the connection with the American Heart Association, considered to be the world's leading authority on heart disease, and Proctor & Gamble.
Make your own minds up but I feel vindicated about my beliefs about saturated fat which were generally dismissed as rubbish 40 years ago.
https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2012/01/09/144918710/the-forgotten-fascinating-saga-of-crisco
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Thank god we don't have a narrowboat anymore, with all the talk about MiC and various corrosion issues canal boating sounds too risky now 😱
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Too much trolling on CWDF.
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Vertical axis are better in turbulent wind but not as efficient as conventional horizontal axis.
Basically you can't win.
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Metalwork class 1960, I picked up a piece of black hot metal "aargh", I started to blub as Mr Marshal dressed the burn, a look of grim disgust from Mr Marshall "what's the matter, you big girls blouse?" embarrassment was enough for me to man up 🤣
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8 minutes ago, bizzard said:
Gelignite or thermic lance.
So that's where all your money came from 🤔
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If cooling medium is used it must be used early to prevent heat build up in the first place, if not and workpiece does overheat don't try to cool it down as that will have the effect of 'quenching' and therefore hardening carbon steel, instead let it cool slowly before resuming.
ETA: It's not the heat that hardens it's the rapid cooling that does it.
If it does harden heating workpiece to cherry red and letting it cool slowly should resoften carbon steel.
Quote:
"To maximize a steel's softness, heat it slowly to its transformation range (about 100°F above the steel's critical temp) and soak for the appropriate time. The steel's crystalline structure will begin to form austenite. Generally speaking, proper soak times are 1 hour / every inch of maximum thickness of the piece.
Once the steel has soaked at the correct time / temperature, it is time for cooling. The key to success with annealing is to cool as slowly as possible (specifically, no more than 70° / hr) from the austenizing temperature to about 100°F below the steel's transformation range."
Easier said than done!
It must be said that the steel used with Innisfree's hull had a lower carbon content, grade 45H instead of the more usual 45A.
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FWIW when fitting out Innisfree I finished up with about 14 holes in the hull for skin fittings, about 2" if memory serves me right, bi-metal hole saw in 6mm steel, tried slow speed with plenty of lube but got bored (bored ha ha) after the first two so experimented with a long side handle higher speed no lube and loads of pressure, it worked a treat, very tiring but quick, same holesaw and it's as sharp now as it was then (2004) drilling through quickly before heat could build up helped.
At first I made up a special threaded rod and spring with a nut to apply the pressure evenly but by the time I'd set it up I could drill straight through manually.
I would drill a pilot hole first then slowly and carefully start with the hole saw, once it was biting evenly I attacked with full speed and pressure, knack was to carefully keep drill at 90 deg to metal.
I'm not suggesting anyone tries my method but for me it worked very well and saved a lot of time., took me less than a minute to bang it through before I was knackered!
ETA: Only downside was it made my mains JCB 550 watt drill smoke! It survived but gave up.the ghost after a few months, heavier duty one would have been better.
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Seems to me the doodlebug detector coil needs replacing, either that or upgrade to a mysteron system.
HDPE canal boat
in General Boating
Posted
Stainless steel protection