plainsman
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Posts posted by plainsman
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I recall a couple of years (?) Ago the then BW published a map that defined PLACE(s) around the system. Designed to 'help' boaters. Have looked on CRT site but no trace. Does anyone else recall same? Is it still valid?
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The OP said he was travelling Northbound which to me means he was at the Southern portal and still on the T&M. (as per our boat in the pic.)
ed. - however thinking about it though he must have meant travelling Southbound as there isn't room for traffic on the towpath at the Southern portal.
Traffic does use the towpath at the south end. This is for access to the house alongside the stop lock.
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Tell us more. Is this a form of paint? Does it need to be applied by a professional? If so, by whom? Is it expensive?
Powder coating baked on or if preferred they use a spray coating. This is not your usual laquer, it's heavy duty stuff. Cost is not bad although cannot remember how much. Prep is important and had mine buffed by a metal finisher. Coating firm is ereg coatings.com based in Burnley. 01282 838378 ask for Dean, a helpful bloke. The firm works to a high spec as their main business is miliary/MOD work
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Barkeeper's Friend made into a paste easily removes old tarnish with little effort, followed by Brasso.
Dave
Had my brasswork, pots and mushrooms clear powder coated inside and out. Great, I have a shiny boat but no polishing. Incidentally now 3 years on and still shiny
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the dip stick on my national dm3 sites in a raised casting on the block .And is loose like yours, its never been a problem.
Seems mine is missing the raised casting but if yours is loose with no prob I'll stop worrying! Thanks for response
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The dipstick on my National sits a bit loose. Should there be tube in the casing to guide and hold the stick? If yes does it just slide through the casing into the sump? Does anyone have one or where from?
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As most narrowboats trim down by the stern and that drain tap tends to be at the front then it must always leave some water in the tank. Also you may well find that it is raised from the bottom of the tank by the thickness of the pipe/fitting wall that would leave even more water behind.
Older cruiser built when good practice was important tended to have a little sump in the tank with the drain right in the bottom so as much water as possible could be drained.
Anything that removes water is better than nothing but I would advocate draining as much a you can by the drain and then either syphoning as much more as you can or use an emulsifying additive.
The effectiveness of the drain is all down to design.
My drain is right at the bottom of the tank with a gate valve followed by a square head plug so the outlet can be controlled. It does produce water and debris on occasion but I note your suggestion of 'back up' with a syphone. Thanks for tip
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I have a drain tap on my tank would, opening this allow water and stuff to be removed from the tank as opposed to sucking it out, or is not as simple as I think?
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Indeed. And the repeated dilation and flattening will always result in wear and leaks. And it's almost impossible to buy replacement hose without the reel at an excessive price. Even if it is blue!
Had mine 8 years plus and no probs. Agreed you have to unwind the whole length but it's done in minutes. All down to personal choice
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I use a food grade (blue colour) flat hose on a reel. Food grade avoids contamination and the 'disinfectant' taste normally associated with the yellow/green garden hose types. I know others may say food grade is not necessary but I go with the science on this. The flat hose allows you to squeeze out the water after use and makes for easier stowage
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Before I had mine rebuilt the engineer told me DM2s (the originals not modern DM2 'tribute' engines) are 'self basting'!!!!!!
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The museum in Nantwich (near bus station) is worth a visit. Only small but interestering
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Does anyone ever check licences? I walked through Parbold on the towpath of the L&L yesterday. There were 11 boats moored there; 2 showing valid licences, 7 showing expired licences (oldest 10/13) and 2 showing no licence at all.
Apart from the above, several boats have been moored on the 24 hour moorings all winter!
Have heard from a reliable source that CRT on the L&L in this area are short of staff and generally do not patrol. They tend to only act in response to a complaint about a specific boat or location. So it's up to you!
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There is it costs in the region of £1,000
Holy cr*p that's an eye watering price. I'll 'struggle' on with the original
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Is there a new version available? I heard sometime back a revised version was to be launched
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Hi,
Depends on who rebuilt the engine and what condition is was in prior to rebuild and how much gasket sealant was used in the rebuild.
Many of the 2LWs brought back from service in South Africa where in very poor condition - I have one and it does have a couple of small oil leaks, but at the end of a day's run it's easy to clean them off. I think re-building standards have improved or levels of gasket sealant usage has increased
It also depends on how much oil you put in the engine - don't over fill them. I had a 1.5 BMC in a boat, it would run all season happily with no oil leakage if the oil level was maintained at half full on the dip-stick, any oil added above this level would be thrown out until it reached it's own 'happy' level
If it starts and has good oil pressure is a fair comment, but check the level regularly.
If you want to see vintage engines leaking oil visit a fairground and have a look under the generator engines (usually big Gardners) and see the patch they leave.
Back in the late 60's my Dad ran a Vauxhall Victor - that leaked a monumental amount of engine oil, he was asked to park it out side the underground office car park as it was a possible fire risk.We cured it by installing a secondhand engine.
KK. So will you be bringing your drip tray along as a plate for the Christmas Lunch?..........
L.
Thanks for your response and from everyone else. Think this has answered my question. I like the tale of your dads vauxhall
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I recall in the 50's and 60's motor bikes (usually British built) did drip a bit when stationary after a run and I am wondering if old boat engines of similar and older vintage are prone to leaking. I've heard a few anecdotes such as 'if it starts and has oil pressure what else do you want' Or 'if you need to take the engine out to fix it it's not worth the bother, chances are it won't be possible to cure all leaks'. Also I've seen a few engine rooms with a very oil wet bilge and some factory steam engines with oil spill mats in strategic places.
Views from you guys with vintage engines would be appreciated
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My GP is also electronic but I stick with the paper prescription. Does not inconvenience anybody and suits my needs, going electronic is not compulsory. Another advantage of paper is in the case the pharmacy doesn't have stock of a particular med you can try another pharmacy rather than wait a day or half day for drugs to be restocked
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You can get the adapter from Russell Newbery, tel 01327700023 or 07812039110 it comes with a 1/8" threaded hole in the top to take a pressure gauge but they will blank this off for you if required, they also supply the screw on filter, its not cheap at £67.50 but its a lot less messy at oil change times. Also it comes with all nuts bolts and gaskets for fitting.
OK great, thanks for the info
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I have just bought and fitted the oil filter adapter that takes the spin on oil filter, I filled up with morris golden film sae 30. probably my imagination but it sounded better than ever. I always keep mine topped up to the full mark on the dip stick.
Any info/source for the oil filter adapter referred to?
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Picked this up from the web. Knackered my cruising plans for this winter!
Notice is hereby given that due to the installation of safety gates into the Bridgewater Canal at Worsley the Canal will be closed to all navigation during the course of the works.
From: Monday 02nd November 2015 at 08.00am
To: Monday 29th February 2016 at 12.00 noon.
Location of closure: Approximately 400m West of the M60 motorway bridge and 1300m East of Bridgewater Marina.
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MORE: Valvoline HD30 is API-CF so wouldn't suit some applications: http://www.valvolineeurope.com/english/products/engine_oils/valvoline_hd_engine_oil/cid(7581)/hd_30
Likewise this one is also API-CF: http://www.fuchslubricants.com/titan-universal-hd-sae-30
Richard
Thanks for all the digging around. I'm not a tekky but it is correct that if both oils are API-CF the HD handle is irrelevant?
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I have been using Morris Classic SAE 30 but have heard Morris/Rock oil HD30 is also used. Have also heard that HD oils can cause engine to smoke Any truth in this and what is the difference between the two oils?
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Believe the definitive list will be out in Sept according to CRT website, anyone recall when this usually happens? Have contacted CRT who say "soon"
What are the Cruising guidelines for a boater WITH a home mooring?
in New to Boating?
Posted
Thanks for response. My reason for asking is I recently had an email from CRT telling me my boat had been in same 'general location' for over 14 days. Have since tried to get clarification from CRT of what is same general location but no luck. I admit although boat was being moved the distances were only a couple of miles. As CRT seem to be making an issue re overstays, justified in some cases, it would avoid a lot of conflict if a definition was made. OK had my moan, sorry to unload it on you.
Cheers
PS I am not live aboard and I have a genuine marina home mooring