plainsman
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Posts posted by plainsman
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I've got a slow running National engine and fancy adding a rev counter. Ones seen so far offer an indication of thous of revs, I need one for hundreds. I know RN do one but that is stamped 'RN' which I don't want - a bit fussy I know.
Any help appreciated
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Hi-looking to buy one of the above and was hoping to avoid buying a 12v one(seem a tad expensive). Anybody got some recomendations looking at about a 19" or slightly bigger screen size. Would appreciate any help-many thanks. And is worthing spending a bit more on a Kerstan satellite dish rather than less inexpensive ones?
Just got a 19" Hitachi combi with built in Freeview. Has a transformer 'brick' to drop from 240v. I use mine on 12v with an Amperor regulator. Telly cost £200 from Argos, stunning pic quality
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There is some stuff on the market used as floor plates.(Seen on off road Land Rovers etc) Shiny steel colour and made of some sort of alloy, it has diagonal hatchings on the surface. Sorry for vague description but would appreciate anyone letting me know what it's called and where one might get it. Thanks in anticipation.
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Apart from the fact that a blocking diode on non-battery sensed alternators is not good for battery charging I think this should be fine. However if its actually an electronic device marketed as a "zero voltdrop split charge diode" then I can not be so sure. It should do no harm to try it.
Should have said, I have an Adverc alt controller fitted I believe makes the alternator battery sensed. Does this alter your view in any way?
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I need to fit an hours meter but my vintage engine layout does not allow for the 'normal' fitting ie via the 'ignition' switch. I thought of taking the feed from the alternator 'in' terminal on blocking diode. That way engine stops, alternator stops so meter stops recording. Is this a goer or have I come up with a problem? Advice appreciated
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i have some 6" brass 0 -100psi going cheap.
Thanks but I was looking for 4"
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I am looking for oil pressure and engine temp gauges in brass. Can anyone tell me of a supplier in UK?
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Just been speaking to one of my CCer friends who is overwintering on the Chesterfield. Whilst blocked in by thick ice and deep snow her mate, moored behind her, was ticketted by BW for overstaying. When challenged, the jobsworth stated that regulations were regulations and weather didn't alter anything.
Her boat, that had been there just as long, wasn't ticketted. Where do they find these officious little morons?
Tone
At the other end of the spectrum, there is a boat on the L&L near Burscough, no name, no number no licence and has been there for 4 years. It was ticketted two years ago but it remains in place. One wishes BW were a bit more even handed, after all regulations are regulations aren't they ??
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It does matter, actually.
Most people (not all, I admit) would like more, and the vast majority of us, if offered a doubling of our salary with no strings, would say "yes please".
That has to beg the question "is that amount obscene only because it is more than you get"
As a suplementary question, what is the upper limit of what is not obscene for any job?
Need to keep some perspective on this. Footballers, so called TV celebs and the film types all demand and get eye watering high pay. There doesn't seem to be much resentment at these people being paid such high wages/fees. Despite this feeling of acceptance we all pay for these excessive wages through TV licence, fees to Sky, cinema tickets, football tickets and end product costs where the celebs et al advertise or are associated with individual products.
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I am looking to buy some of the 12v dc round pin plugs and sockets. Any suggestions where from? Thanks
Thanks everyone, plenty of options for me
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I am looking to buy some of the 12v dc round pin plugs and sockets. Any suggestions where from? Thanks
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After a long summer cruising I notice my mooring ropes have algae (or other green stuff) growing in the (natural) fibres. I thought about a hot wash in my automatic but then thought doing so would remove some of the natural oils in the fibres to the detriment of the strength. Any suggestions how to clean ropes or how to replace the oils lost through washing?
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q
If you only want reading lamps then these may be ok. But if you want to light an area, then forget it.
I have converted most of the interior light on Lily Maud to LEDs. I am really pleased with the power saving, really pleased with the service from Bedazzled from whom I bought them (he is a boater) and quite pleased with the resulting light. I have a little work to do on one of the fittings type to reduce glare, but otherwise, go for LEDs if power worries you.
Bedazzled also sell a 'warm white', very easy on the eye with no reduction in illumination.
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jabsco, £109, very quiet, tho i recently found a german one that is 12 volt £25.99!!! and has a working temp of 120, 20 more than the jabsco
Thanks for the info, german one for £29?? A one off or do you have the source?
If its a completely new system your fitting design it to operate by gravity then you won't need a pump.
New system into old boat. Will need to dismantle a lot of the fitted furniture to make it a proper gravity system, hence need for pump. Thanks for reply and thanks to everyone else responding - much appreciated
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Intend fitting a new system but am struggling over choice of circulation pump. I only have 12v on board so power via an inverter not an option. Which make of pump can members recommend?
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Quick question - does anyone know where I can buy a handcuff key from? I'm currently up at Tarleton, crossed the Ribble Link yesterday. Been up on the Lancaster for the past two years and forgot I needed one to get through the (bl**dy) swing bridges on the Rufford arm and lord only knows where my old one is.
Last time I was up here and needed a key for my pump out I had to go all the way to Adlington to buy one. Any chandleries opened up since I've been away?
Thanks muchly!
Have tried Mayors Yard. You passed it as you came through the lock from the river Douglas
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Hello,
I am considering investing in a shared ownership scheme and would be interested to read of anyones experiences (good and bad) of these. If you are, or have been a member of a scheme can you recommend a good one.
Are there things that weren't bought to your attention at the time, or that you have since discovered that I should be aware of? One area that I am particularly keen to hear about at the annual maintenance costs, In general what should I expect to pay? and by how much have these increased over the last few years.
One scheme that I am looking at is www.carefreecruising.com I would be interested to hear of anyones experiences with this company.
Thank you in advance,
Nick
I did this before my own boat but I chose a private sydicate (see some in Waterwaysworld mag). Apart from making sure the boat is right for you check out the arrangements for allocating weeks. Don't be sucked in with comments such as ' we all sort it out by mutal arrangement....'. Also make sure there is a Disputes Resolution Procedure. The good private syndicates will have one of these and a watertight week allocation arrangement. Good luck
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As we are considering heading up the Shroppie in the next few weeks I dug out our copy of Nicholsons book 4 ( Four Counties & the Welsh Canals) new & as yet unread, Chester is on pages 108 & 109 but when I turned to page 113 which should be Ellesmere Port we have the Grand Union -Main Line ! ( Solihull) & pages 114 & 115 are of Birmingham, not a lot of use in Ellesmere Port! So for some reason we have pages 113,114,115 & 116 from book 3 instead of book 4,
I have emailed them asking them to forward the correct pages , anyone else had this or is it just a one off?
Yes this happened to me with the Birmingham pages (a newly purchased item). I wrote to them and got a very apologetic reply together with a replacement guide.
Good service
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Hi everyone, changed the oil on my PRM 150 gearbox but when I check the oil level I find it very difficult to tell if there is oil on the dip stick. Is it just me?
Terry
I painted the dipstick with white quality gloss. This has made reading easier. No evidence of the paint coming away after four years
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I bought a cheap car from the auctions, a 1999 Fiesta diesel van with 100k on the clock so not attractive to the boys racers. I have used this for the last four years and left it in remote spots eg where fishermen park, and in towns. I leave the empty glove box open and nothing in the van In town or villages I choose a residential area and tell the local police (most aren't interested). As long as you park legal and are not in a position to annoy the residents it works OK for me. Also have left it at pubs with landlord's permission, usually costs a fiver or so for a week. Some marinas will also let you park especially if you are buying fuel etc. Alternatively I use the bus (bus pass holder). I find routes and timetables on 'traveline.co.uk'. This covers all of UK, enter departute point and destination, the site gives you a number of suggestions by bus and/or train. If using the train I try to book in advance via 'the trainline.com'. I don't have on board internet so I use libraries, internet cafe or plan ahead from home.
Home this helps.
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Your 25amp charger is ok but it will take time to fully charge your 330a/h battery bank.
Is the charger connected to your start battery too or just your domestics?
As Innisfree says, you could run a bigger charger or just double up on chargers if your generator will allow? If your Honda EU10i can only 44 amps of charger output then perhaps a 15 or 20 amp charger of the same brand/spec?
I have a Sterling 30amp charger which wasn't really charging my 405a/h domestic bank quickly enough so I installed a second 40amp charger to the same battery bank giving me 70amps output in total. However, I have a bigger generator than you which allows me to do this.
Incidentally, are your bateries wet lead/acid or sealed maintenance-free? If they're wet then you'd be better off with a charger that could put out 14.8v. If they're sealed then 14.4v is fine.
Charger connected to domestics only.
Open wet lead/acid batteries.
Thanks for the advice
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A bigger Honda will only reduce bulk charging time if you use a bigger charger, your 330 ah batts will safely take about 80 amps bulk charge which a Honda EU20i will handle easily. If you discharge to 50% SoC a bulk charge at 25 amps would then take about 4hrs and at 80 amps about 1.5hrs. Absorption and float would take a further 8 hours or more to reach 100% SoC, a bit longer with 25 amps. Still too long I hear you say but what you could do is a daily bulk charge to 80% SoC and every few days or so or when voltage starts to suffer do an extended absorption/float charge to 100% SoC to reduce sulfation, this could be done in conjunction with a long cruise perhaps. Though this method will reduce your battery life (expect batts to last only 2 years) it will minimise fuel usage. Bit of a balancing act between battery and fuel expenditure. Personally, after a full 100% charge, rather than wait for batts to drop to 50% I would do a short 1hr charge each day until SoC drops to 60% and then do another full charge, this way batts stay nearer 100% SoC which is much better for them.
Incidentally you could just fit a bigger charger and still use your Honda EU10i which will handle about 44 amps. (2.25 hrs bulk charge)
Thanks very much for the clear explanation, very helpful and much appreciated
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I assume you meant 'bulk to absorption'. Bulk charge finishes and absorption begins when batts reach approx 80% SoC, this will be in the region of 13v or more. Reaching 80% SoC can take quite a while depending on how discharged your batts are. If, say, you start at 30% SoC, then reaching 80% SoC with 25amps into 330ah of batts will take over 6 hours. 4 hours charging at 25 amps to reach absorption will equate to starting from approx 50% SoC.
My mistake, should have read bulk to absorption.
Your explanation sorts it out in my mind thanks. It does seem to take less time on landline so I'm still not sure about the Honda 1.0i. I assume from your comments the genny can handle the demands but takes a long time. Would a bigger genny (Honda 2.0i) reduce the charging time? I consider running a genny for 6 hrs a bit antisocial
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Does that mean initial charge gradually increases over 4hrs until it reaches 25a & 12.6v, then carries on with bulk charge? If so I can't see why 25a charge shouldn't begin straight away. It can take a few hours on absorption to get to float and many more to fully charge batts.
I understand it starts at 25A until terminal voltage reaches 12.6 but if it doesn't achieve this within 4 hrs it switches to fault mode and stops charging.
I thought over 4 hours running the genny it should have shifted from absorption to bulk. When on landline and the batteries at a similar state of part charge it takes about two hours
Battery Monitors
in Boat Equipment
Posted
I fancy fitting a battery monitor but which one? My current set up is 3 x 220amphr wet domestics (these are 5 years old a suspect need replacing soon), 1 x 90ahr engine battery, 1 x 110ahr bow thruster battery, 1 x 90 amp Reece Neville alternator, Adverc alternator controller Victron Phoenix MultiPlus Compact 12v/1600W/70A - 16A with a Phoenix Multi Control Panel 16A.
So do I go for the Adverc monitor to match with the controller, the Victron to go with the Phonex Multi Control panel or someother battery monitor that would be compatible?
Advice appreciated