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Posts posted by Ray T
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That's right, O and it was a Dutton
Brian, if your was a "Dutton" was it one of these?
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A third vote for Craftmaster Canuba - brilliant IMHO
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Not have the corridor all down one side, this would help distribute the weight more evenly.
Despite my attempts at re-ballasting CF still lists slightly to port.
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Not easy but another idea: drill out the handle part and slip a strip of steel dowel down it.
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One suggestion I have been told of is the orange plastic temporary fencing.
http://premierbarrie...eavy-p-432.html
Two layers allow the water tank to move when filling and emptying. Also it will not soak up any splashed water.
However, others may know better!
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the Rochdale - ughh through Manchester -wild locks them
We have not done the whole Rochdale, Sowerby Bridge to Summit and Back and a later cruise the Rochdale 9 as part of The Cheshire Ring.
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I was going to suggest 56lb weights but they are selling at silly prices on eBay.
Scrap sheet steel from a boat yard?
Need treating and or painting though.
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Rowing up Wick river when I was a lad.
From there I went dinghy sailing then the natural progression to sailing on the Broads, then searching for something more adventerous, offshore sailing.
When I married, my first late misses didn't like water despite coming from Plymouth!
I did however manage to get her on a narrowboat holiday in 1992 and she loved it.
The current Mrs T tried offshore sailing, wasn't too keen but took to narrowboating after a baptism of fire for her first trip, The Rochdale Canal.
As they say the rest is history
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Thanks one and all.
I will follow Blackrose's suggestion and to do a belt & braces job, fit diverter battons as well on the uxter plate and lag the central heating piles - can't harm can it?
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Good, I am glad I am not so much out of touch!
When I typed the original piece I had a "senior" moment and couldn't remember what the uxter plate was called!!!
Yes the water is supposed to drain away through the channels beneath the doors.
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But where is the water coming from?
It sounds like you're saying the welds are leaking? Or are you saying it's coming from above?
The point is to stop the ingress of water - not simply divert it once it's in the boat.
The gully at the stern where the engine hatch sits is not very deep and either rain water and / or water coming up the rudder tube, if I have to rev the engine hard in reverse, runs into the engine compartment. Most of this runs into the bilge but some runs along the top of the swim uxter plate and sits where I have arrowed.
Also the boat sits bow high in the water so rain water can sit in the gullies without running away, then overflow into the engine compartment.
Without major and expensive welding work, as Albion said, I cannot cure the disease but I can address the symptom.
I regularly clean the gullies and the overflows.
Another way of addressing the problem would be to put a couple of drain tubes from the gully into the bilge.
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i used silicon sealant and layed down a thick bead it stopped mine for a bit found most of mine was condensation are they heating pipes just above
That's something I'd not thought about, thank you.
Have a greenie.
The pipes in the picture are the Eberspacher heating pipes, so that's a strong possibility, won't hurt to lag them.
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Thanks for the ideas, keep 'em coming.
I have some "Gorilla Glue" I may give that a try.
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I'm not really sure what you mean. If water is coming in between the swim and the hull, your boat is sinking!
Richard
The water runs along the inside of the top of the swim uxter plate.
My thoughts were to put a barrier across the swim uxter plate to divert the water into the bilge.
Some may be coming in via the vent but I cannot close this off as the batteries are just behind it and the vent allows air flow to help cool the engine bay and dissipate any battery charging gasses.
Thank you for the chemical metal suggestion.
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Whilst replacing a rotten panel in the engine room I have discovered the damage was caused by water seeping along the join between the top of the swim uxter plate and the side of the hull.
The water gets in via the engine hatch on the counter. Most of it drains into the bilge but a little follows the route described.
Obviously drilling holes to fit an angled bracket along the line of the shadow in the picture is out of the question!!!!
The next option is to have a lip welded to divert the water into the bildge.
An interim solution would be to araldite some "L" alloy angled strip across the swim uxter plate.
Any further solutions please?
And yes I am going to replace the crap insulation with Celotex.
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Thank you for the info, I put tele' on blinked and nearly missed the article.
Just paid lip service to the restoration efforts - sad but better something than nothing.
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The forum from "the dark side" has an interesting article regarding the voting for CaRT representives.
It includes all standing and their election manifesto's.
http://www.narrowboatworld.com/index.php/leatest/4081-voting-for-cart-opens-today
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I am not a "legal eagle" but when we bought our boat, from a broker, he happily produced the MCA "bill of sale" which included the names and addresses the two previous owners. The information pack also included the contract when the boat was built for the first owners.
I would suggest you insist the broker make all paperwork available for inspection whilst you are at the "haggling stage."
Unfortunately narrow boats do not have a "log book" of ownership.
The only proof I have that I own the boat is the receipt from the broker which clearly states that I paid the agreed price for the boat in question.
Since buying the boat we have changed her name but have kept all correspondence to BW regarding this matter and we have photographic evidence of the repaint and name change.
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You can honestly see why some people are put off contributing to this forum and many have left or faded away. Paul provides a perfectly sensible, and in my opinion, honest attempt to explain the rationale and is immediately attacked about the whys and wherefores of his site; the minutiae of his terms and conditions are picked over in a tone that can be described as aggressive. There may be errors and omissions on his site but wouldn't it be better to calmly point out those differences so that he can choose to sort them (or not if he doesn't want to) rather than send in the Spanish Inquisition.........after all, 'No-one expects the Spanish Inquisition'
Roger
Have a greenie
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Banbury Market 5 mins from the cut, every Thursday & Saturday 9:00 'till 4:30
http://www.banburymarket.co.uk/
Don't bother with Coventry Market, due to the Council's meddling it's a shadow of its former self.
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First Time? How many times did you get knocked off your motorbike Ray? Did you make a practice of it?
Unfortunately David I did.
The second (did it big style) and last time I was knocked off by a Renault of some sort.
I lost 5 teeth, lower jaw broken and had to have 3 plastic surgery operations to get my nose in some sort of semblance of order.
Needless to say never been on a motor bike since!!!!
And yes he did come out with the classic line "Sorry mate I didn't see you".
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The first time I got knocked of my motorcycle was by a Riley RM.
How to get your aluminium windlass out of the cut
in Boat Equipment
Posted · Edited by Ray T
It be here:-
http://scraggend.com/carbon-fibre-windlass/
http://scraggend.com...indlass-update/