monkeyhanger

Does anyone know where I can get spare parts, please? I have a 3-way Sibir fridge, wnich I bought second hand from "Theakston Technology" at Uxbridge about ten years ago. It still works well, but the rubber seal around the door is damaged, and I'd like to replace the seal if possible. Any info about Sibir or Graham? Theakston would be useful.

I didn't get the email you sent, but it may be somewhere on the site I haven't checked yet, as I'm still trying to get to grips with this computering malarky. The info in the link was excellent, just what I needed! Thanks very much, again. Jack

Hi Tim,got the heads off today, quite easily in fact.I eventually found my box spanner that I'd used on the push rod tube nuts, and although I couldn't shift them with it, after giving the spanner a bit of a clean up,I could read a feint 32mm stamped on it.After another search, I found a 32mm socket which was too small. A 35mm socket, although too big, did the trick. After a bit of head scratching and discussion with a mate, we reckon that the size socket I need may be 1 inch and 5 -16ths AF. What this is in Whitworth, I don't know. Also, I now remember that when I bought the engine, in pieces, a lot of the nuts and bolts showed signs of being worked on with a hammer and chisel, especially these particular ones, and I had to clean them up on a linisher, so they may be a touch undersize. Anyway, mission accomplished. Also---I phoned Belzona, and a man is coming to look at my silencer, and will possibly do the repair job for me! Thanks for all the advice and help. Much appreciated. Jack

What's the chances of finding a sound silencer for sale? I've not seen any, but there again, I haven't really been looking. Hens teeth comes to mind! Maybe someone out there is using one as a door stop or something similar, you never know!

Hi Tim, thanks for that reminder-I feel a right berk forgetting those tubes! A question as you obviously know these engines--do you happen to know the size of the nuts which hold the push rod tubes, please? I've lost the box spanner I used on them, so I will have to buy a deep socket. The size may be in my manual,but it's on the boat

Yes----oops!

Hi Everyone, A couple of months back I requested info on the best way of heating a calorifier using a vintage engine, specifically a JP2. That is now sorted and working well, so I'd like to say thanks to those who replied and helped. And so to the next problem, or two actually. Number one- when I built my engine 20 years ago, I found that the cast iron, water cooled silencer which sits on the engine block had cracks in the water jacket and leaked. Welding only partly soved the problem, so I had a go with JB Weld epoxy filler. This did the trick, and I've had no problem for a long time. However, the iron has rusted over the years, and foced some of the JB Weld away from the crack, and it now leaks slightly again. I am tempted to clean it up , and have another go with JB Weld, because 20 years is pretty good I reckon, unless someone can recommend a more modern, and perhaps better, alternative. I have to say that the only access to the cracks is from the outside. Problen Number two-- I can't get the cylinder heads off! I've tried levering, tapping with a lump hammer and they won't move. In the book it says"use the engine compression to shift them", but its a hand start engine, and the starting mechanism is fastened to the top of the silencer, which is on my kitchen floor at the moment ( see problem one, above). I tried feeding some clothes line through the injector hole to sit on top of the piston, and then turn the engine using the flywheel, to try to lift the heads, but the combustion chambers in the heads are small, and won't allow the clothes line in. Does anyone have any bright ideas?

Ihad my 70 foot boat blacked in June of this year at Granthams Bridge, Hillmorton.They used International Intertuf and the cost was round £450. At that price I figured it wasn't worth doing it myself

I'd be very interested to see some pictures. Thanks very much

Does anyone have any experience of using a vintage engine to provide domestic hot water? I have a Lister JP2 in my narrowboat. It is skin-tank cooled, and it runs at about 60 degrees C. It occured to me that I may be able to use some of this heat to warm up my calorifier, and cut down on fuel bills. When I was building the boat I considered this idea, but was told by several people not to waste my time," cos JP's don't run hot enough" I still think it may be possible. Any ideas gratefully accepted.