Doubleh

My experience is very much in line with this. When we bought our current boat last year we were advised to use anthracite for the rayburn range and duly stocked up with a dozen bags. Quickly found that it is great for cooking on and burns very hot, but is very hard to slumber and just died out overnight. I did discover however when we ran low on excel that I could burn the fire overnight by building a good bed of anthracite and putting a small amount of Excel on top. I think that as the anthracite got close to going out the excel would kick in, and in burning create enough draft to keep the anthracite alight. Worth a try for anyone who is struggling to use it

I seem to recall the rationale for the upside down method is that when coal burns the heat drives off volatile vapour, which then burns as a gas. The wood fire on top heats the coal producing this vapour, which then rises through the burning wood and catches fire. I always start with a single layer of coal on the grate, and nestle a firelighter in the middle then build a jenga stack of kindling on top of the firelighter. Very reliable.

Thanks for the input both and sorry for not responding sooner. Given that there doesn't seem to be anyone obviously to hand without paying travelling time I took a last look at it myself before biting the bullet. I thought the problem couldn't be air locks but over the last week or so I completely drained the system and refilled it using an antifreeze/inhibitor solution so that we can leave it commissioned when away over winter. This certainly did create air locks, and I bled them out from the towel rail. On retrying the eberspacher I found it now works fine, so I guess the problem must have been due to air in the system collecting in the heat exchanger. The smell of diesel has also largely dissipated so I'm hoping it was from spilt fuel being burned off the heater. I put a co alarm with a ppm read out into the bedroom just the other side of the bulkhead from the heater and it's showing no sign of fumes. The heater is now coming on faultlessly to the timer in the morning, and we wake up to a warm bedroom and hot towels. I know these pieces of kit get a bad rap, but right now I'm loving it. I think most of the problems come from using them for something they were never designed for ie 24/7 heating. For a quick burst to take of the chill they can be great.

Apologies if this has already been covered but a search has turned up nothing. Can anyone recommend a competent engineer to look at an eberspacher heater (hydronic d5) in East London area (limehouse)? I used to service the Webasto on our old boat, and have done the obvious on the eberspacher ie changed gaskets, burner screen and o rings, de-coked burner and cleaned fuel filter, but am still struggling to get it to work. When it does start up it runs for approx 40 mins before it starts making a horrible grinding noise and I shut it down. It then needs to be bled through the bleed screw before I can run it smoothly again so seems to be some problem losing coolant. I had thought water could be escaping from heat exchanger but replacing exchanger I rings hasn't helped. The heating circuit is also used by a rayburn with expansion tank and circulation pump so I don't think there should be air trapped in circuit. I'm aware of places you can remove the unit and post it in to them, but there is also a problem with diesel smell in the cabin after running and elevated level of CO showing on the detector (not enough to cause an alarm condition) so I'd like to have someone actually check over the installation and exhaust setup. Any recommendations much appreciated

thanks to all those who commented for your input and concern, and apologies for not replying sooner I realise it is poor form, but have been pretty busy. I agree that the ultimate solution is likely to involve cutting open the tank and cleaning it out, but didnt feel this was something I could tackle on a public mooring on the river, particularly given the large amount of fuel that would need to be drained out, in the region of 4-500 litres. Instead I went for the option of cleaning in situ, and purchased a polishing system from ASAP supplies, based around a Racor 500 filter and an electric pump. This cycles the fuel through the filter, and has removed a substantial amount of crud. It doesn't have sufficient force to blast scum off the floor of the tank, but I have cleaned as much as possible by rigging the intake of the filter to a piece of hose stiffened with a length of strong wire, which I could use to "sweep" the base of the tank picking up a substantial amount of crud. We made the tidal trip without event on sunday and are now in the Brentford area. No sacrifices necessary although I did rig the racor as a pre filter ahead of the lift pump and cav filter for the journey as extra insurance against any bits left. Now we're back on the canals I've reset the engine to its previous set up and have the polisher running constantly for a few days until the filters stay clean. I'm very happy with this setup, and confident that with periodic use it should help prevent any recurrence of this problem in the future which seems like it would always be a risk with such a large tank. ASAP were extremely helpful and efficient in sending the components out and advising the right equipment and how to use it. I debated whether or not to plump for the Racor as it is not cheap, but it is doing a great job. Its water separator does such a good job of settling out larger pieces of sediment that the filter has relatively little work to do. By comparison the CAV would have a small amount of liquid in the water trap and the filter totally blocked by large particles. Also handy is that it has a clear bowl so you can see the sediment levels, and a metal shield under this ensures it is still compliant with BSS. Happy to put up some details of the set up if anyone is interested. Cheers

When we bought our boat in November there was what appeared to be bug in the diesel, as a result of which I dosed it with a heavy dose of marine 16 and adopted a regime of regular precautionary filter changes - initially every couple of days dropping to every week or so of cruising. I thought that this was gradually working the bug out as the filters started to look cleaner, but recently lost all power and was unable to restart the engine. It turned out the problem was the lift pump, a facet solid state type which sits before the primary filter, was completely blocked with black slime deposit. The pump and filter were changed and after bleeding the engine ran ok, but when I changed the filter again a week or so later, I discovered that the pump again had gunk in it which I cleaned out. Looks like I will have to bite the bullet and shell out for a fuel polish or tank clean out, but in the meantime it seems strange to me to site the pump before the filter. Engine is a barrus shire 65. 1. Can anyone recommend either a replacement pump which incorporates a pre filter that I can easily change or service to prevent the pump itself from becoming fouled, or a pre filter I can install in line ahead of the pump for the same purpose? 2. Alternatively it looks as though I could re-route the fuel lines so that the line goes from the tank first through the primary filter, then the lift pump and on to the second filter, thus protecting the pump. The primary and secondary filters are both above the level of the lift pump, and around 3/4 up the height of the tank. Are there any reasons not to do this? Should the lift pump still be able to lift fuel through the primary filter? I'm guessing it would mean that when changing the primary using the lift pump I would need to bleed the secondary filter as otherwise the lift pump would draw air In through the bleed screw of the primary - does this sound right and should it be a concern? 3. Lastly can anyone recommend someone who can do polishing or clean the fuel tank? We're currently in kingston on thames and planning to rejoin the canals at brentford shortly so anywhere in that area would be good. Job may be harder as I'm not aware of any access hatch on the tank, only the filler which does at least drop straight into the tank itself, also the tank is large (something like 400-500 litres - and I've been keeping it full to ensure a good head of fuel. Apologies for the long post, any input to any or all of the questions much appreciated Neil

Sorry to have missed you - we moved on to Abingdon yesterday. Don't miss the curry while you're there!

Just thought I'd follow this up for the benefit of anyone else who may have the same need in the future. We went with goring which was fantastic. Called the lock and spoke to the keeper who couldn't have been more helpful. In addition to the free 24hr moorings below the lock the have a single paid space on the outside of the lock itself at the upstream end. They had no problem with our situation, and reserved the spot for us after the call. They we're able to keep an eye on the boat giving us comfort in light of the yellow boards. The mooring cost I think £8 per day and we took electricity as well for an extra £1.50 so the batteries would get a full equalisation charge. The village was small but very pleasant and the station only 15 mins from reading. The curry shop on the high street is also much to be recommended - especially the alkrashma lamb, a house speciality consisting of a whole lamb shank marinated for 48 hours then slow roasted until falling off the bone and meltingly tender. Mmmm... Thanks all for the great input!

Thanks all for the top suggestions, they've been very helpful and we've got a great solution. Obviously I won't be specific about details where we are leaving the boat but all input has been much appreciated.

We are currently on the thames and will shortly have to leave the boat for two nights to visit family up north. I expect to be in the reading area which is handy for trains. I know most of the moorings on the thames are restricted to 24 hours, but many of the ea ones seem to be a modest charge for the next two nights which would suit us fine. Can anyone recommend a good spot in or close to reading to leave the boat? I am enquiring of marinas but would much prefer a towpath mooring if possible, as it will be a short period. As an alternative is it worth crossing onto the k&a and mooring on there instead (we have a gold licence)? This would get around the 24 hour problem but from reading the guide it sounds like a fairly tricky stretch with traffic lights and hydraulic bridges, and I'm unclear how far we would have to go along until we could find a reasonable mooring. Any suggestions much appreciated Thanks Neil

I've had very good service from Steve Strickland in both east and west London - knows his stuff and a true gent 07905 055950

Mate we'll have to stop meeting like this, people will talk! I've done the trip down thames and into queenborough / Gillingham several times in a seagoing sailing boat. The estuary can be interesting for sure, conditions can be as lively as anything in the channel but there's also plenty of land around to watch out for. Lots to think about - charts, buoys, VHF is useful through the barrier etc. That said I'm sure it is doable, and I wouldn't worry about speed; most sailing boats won't top 6-7kts, you just have to work with the tide. Pop over for a brew and a chat some time

I'm planning a summer cruise for most of May and June and as a result our residential online mooring will be vacant for that period. It is just outside limehouse basin on limehouse Cut, and has secure gated access with electric, water and pump out to the berth. The location is handy for dlr at limehouse, with mile end and canary wharf both 15 minutes walk or a bus ride away. I'm prepared to sublet use of the berth for £1,000 per month while we're away; for the avoidance of doubt I have discussed this with cart and any let would be subject to their approval. I'm not making any profit here, just offsetting some of my mooring costs. Yes I know this isn't cheap and won't be of interest to everyone, no need to contact me to tell me this! But it is less than a months mooring in limehouse or Kats and would be ideal for someone who wants a fixed location as a well connected base in London for a few weeks. If anyone is seriously interested please pm me

I'm planning a summer cruise for most of May and June and as a result our residential online mooring will be vacant for that period. It is just outside limehouse basin on limehouse Cut, and has secure gated access with electric, water and pump out to the berth. The location is handy for dlr at limehouse, with mile end and canary wharf both 15 minutes walk or a bus ride away. I'm prepared to sublet use of the berth for £1,000 per month while we're away; for the avoidance of doubt I have discussed this with cart and any let would be subject to their approval. I'm not making any profit here, just offsetting some of my mooring costs. Yes I know this isn't cheap, no need to contact me to tell me this! If anyone is seriously interested please pm me

Thanks, yes appreciate the input. We're looking into this and plan to ensure everything is above board

Eh up, fancy meeting you here! Yes that was going to be my next plan - think I'll take you up on that and pop round with my tape measure! Cheers

I do understand that, as mentioned I never really look up when going under bridges as height is rarely relevant to me! I know that the road bridge is not the highest but haven't found the height published anywhere. If it comes to it I can get down there at the weekend with a tape measure but I thought someone may have experience of taking a similarly sized boat through here - or via one of the alternative routes as per the other helpful comment about Hertford Union

Sorry, should have said! From the thames via either limehouse basin, or possibly bow creek if that is a better option

I'm talking to a friend about letting them use my mooring on limehouse cut (between commercial road and Burdett road bridges) over the summer while we are away cruising. They have a modern Dutch barge with an air draft of approx 10' with wheelhouse up and 7' down. We have a narrowboat style widebeam so need give much thought to air draft. I see nicholsons gives a clearance of 6'9 from limehouse to how. Does anyone know where the limitations are, and whether it would be possible to get a boat of this height to our location, wheelhouse up or down, either up the cut or along the Hertford Union? Thanks

My wife and I live aboard our 65ft wide beam boat. We have a built in fridge, but want to install a 12 volt freezer for various reasons. The best space available is underneath a cabinet that also houses our inverter (Sterling Combi). Based on the model of freezer (Shoreline 12 Volt) we want to get and the space available we will still have some airflow in the space (as required by the inverter). However we are concerned that the freezer may generate extra heat and harm the inverter. The corners of the two pieces of equipment might be touching but they will both be putting hot air into the same space. We are hoping for a little expert guidance from folks more experienced than us. Can we put our freezer in the same 'compartment' as the inverter or will this be catastrophic to the care of the inverter? Thanks, DoubleH

Our new old widebeam came with a coal fired rayburn which is fantastic and also heats water and rads and I believe some have these on narrowboats but probably not ideal to retrofit! The best marine oven I have used is by Force 10 - these are the thing among world cruising live aboard yotties. My old crusty sailboat came with one fitted and it made the best pizzas, although in was shocked when I found the price - about a grand for a 2 burner model that probably fit a boat like naughty cal. The reason it was so good is similar to the rayburn - where other gas ovens I've used have the flame rise up the back of the over giving hot spots, the force 10 has a heavy steel plate at the bottom and the flame heats that which then radiates evenly. You can now buy thick steel sheets designed for cooking pizzas on, you may be able to use one of these or a suitably solid steel offcut at the bottom of a regular oven to even out the heat.

Ellisiana - thanks for that, will look out for them at the show this year Bod - no I wasn't aware there is a filter in the lift pump, but it makes sense as it seemed strange to have it before the primary. There has been visible crud in the primary each time we've changed it but I have wondered whether there is a partial blockage elsewhere contributing to the problems recurring so frequently. Now we're safely home I'm going to change the secondary too, so will look at the pump as well.

Thanks all for the helpful comments and very kind offers of assistance. We did indeed decide to go with the approach of changing every day, fortunately the filters are the cheap Lucas cartridge type so not too painful on the wallet. The multiple changes provided an opportunity for experimentation, and showed that after we had brimmed the tank the filter would slowly fill under gravity with the bleed screw cracked. It does indeed have the electric lift pump although this doesn't seem to make too much difference to the rate of filling. Anyway we made it off the river at Brentford yesterday morning without incident and are nearly home & dry. Once back I'll get some marine 16 to kill anything in there and keep the tank topped up through the winter. Ellisiana, the separator looks interesting but they don't appear to have any prices on their website, would it be rude to ask what it set you back? Thanks again all

We've just become the proud owners of a new-to-us 65' by 12' narrowboat style widebeam. She may not be much to look at but is a big step up in living space from our 60' narrowboat that had been our home for almost 2 years. I've had plenty of experience of diesel bug so turned up to collect her from reading with a bottle of fuel set and 2 spare primary filters just in case, being particularly aware of the risk as we are taking her onto the thames to brentford so may see problems that hadn't been evident on the canals. Sure enough we have been through 2 filters in 3 days, in each case changing after the engine stalled every time it was put into neutral. The first filter had large black flakes in it, the second had smaller pieces but the pores of the filter were clogged. I found a half bottle of fuel set on board that the previous owner had used, and put this in when we refuelled; based on the amount the tank took I think it must have been close to empty when we got it. The engine is a barrus shire 65 and the instructions are split between barrus and yanmar instruction books, neither of which are very clear on the procedure for bleeding. They mention having an electric fuel pump and being self bleeding, but also say bleeding shouldn't be attempted with less than 3/4 full tank which I take to imply gravity feeding the primary. When I refitted the primary and opened the bleed screw no fuel fed into it under gravity; I confirmed this by opening the drain screw of the water trap whilst the bleed screw was open. I then tried turning the key to 1st position with bleed screw open to operate the lift pump; again no diesel came into the filter. After this I attempted to partially fill the filter bowl from a squeezy bottle via the top screw and think it was probably about half full. I ranked the engine and it started within a couple of seconds and didn't miss a beat. So it looks like I have a procedure that works but its damned diddly filling the filter through the top and I'm sure there's an easier way! So does anyone know: 1. Should the primary fill itself under gravity when I open the bleed screw if the level of fuel is high enough? 2. Does it just not matter whether there is fuel in the primary before I start the engine? Can I just change it and crank away and the engine will bleed all the air out? 3. In the past I've had mixed results with fuel set and better with marine 16, but fuel set is what was used previously and what I could get. As i understand it marine 16 is a biocide which kills the bugs, whilst fuel set disperses the water and bug deposit into the fuel so it can pass the filter. Is there value in adding some marine 16 as well as the fuel set to get the best of both, or will they interact somehow causing problem? Would I be better just doubling up on the dose of fuel set? Appreciate any input, thanks

When I bought my boat, a semi trad narrow boat built in 1988, the engine bilge was a watery, oily mess and the surveyor recommended it was cleaned and painted. The boat is currently in a yard where they have replaced the guttering over the bay, which they say should stop further water ingress. The engine doesn't appear to lose oil so I assume the oil is the result of an old spill. The yard originally quoted for painting the engine bay, but now say that will take too long and instead they will empty and steam clean it, and it should then be fine with no painting necessary. They tell me that lots of boats are built with unpainted engine bays and not to worry. I don't mind about aesthetics but how important is a coat of paint in protecting the metal in the engine bay? Are they right to tell me not to worry about this or just trying to wiggle out of a messy job?