Stehughesie

Thanks everyone. Amazing advice. I'm going with the shureflo tails out of the pump, 12mm food safe hose, 3/4 to 1/2 inch hose tail screwed onto male water tank thread with ptfe and tightened up with jubilee clips. At other end I'm going with shureflo tail, 12mm food safe hose then JG soeedfit 1/2 to 15mm connector. This leads to accumulator and then into main boat. Thank you everyone who has helped, much appreciated

Thanks mate, appreciate the help. Yeah, pump is shureflow and it has 2 parts that screw on to either side of the pump. I assume they are the 1/2" NPT? These have flanges on for a hose pipe to slide on. So attach these parts, get 12mm food safe hose and jubilee clip on. Bit I'm stuck on is the 1/2 hose rail to 3/4 bsp female adaptor at tank? Not sure what these are... Sorry to be a nuisance

Thanks mate, appreciate the help. Yeah, pump is shureflow and it has 2 parts that screw on to either side of the pump. I assume they are the 1/2" NPT? These have flanges on for a hose pipe to slide on. So attach these parts, get 12mm food safe hose and jubilee clip on. Bit I'm stuck on is the 1/2 hose rail to 3/4 bsp female adaptor at tank? Not sure what these are... Sorry to be a nuisance

Hi. Hoping for some advice as struggling.... I want to connect new water pump to water tank. The tank has a 3/4" male thread and the new pump has 1/2" male plastic thread. I've thought of using a flexi hose but concerned the rubber washer will get damaged against the brass 3/4" tank. Been to plumbers a load of times, tried different fittings, lost sleep, any advice gratefully received. Picture shows old pump (although new pump is identical) and male 3/4" Gatwick valve that new pump will attach to. Thanks Ste

Drip gets worse after few hours travelling and when engine turned off. Greasing seems to then stop drip until boat moves again. Drip is concerning, say once a second, so fair amount needed pumping out after few hours. Pretty sure the c type wrench will tighten the gland and solve the problem. Thanks for everyone's help

Thank you so much Bee, Springy, Ditchcrawler and TracyDarth. Fantastic advice

Is it a case of holding the larger lock ring tight then turning the nut clockwise to tighten then? Seems logical as this would reduce gap between the two and hopefully compress the graphite rope improving the seal? Thanks for the advice

You are a star, thank you. I'll buy a spanner and tighten it up, hopefully should do the trick. Can I ask what is conventional graphite stuffing (assume it's like a putty) and if you can continue tightening until end of thread. I've read about tightening just enough so as shaft turns without too much friction. I'm new to boating and it is amazing that you have helped me so quickly and eased my mind.

Hi. Just blacked boat for first time at dry dock. When returning noticed constant drip from stern gland (1 drip every second) which needed pumping out via bilge pump. This drip was despite greasing stern regularly throughout 8 hour journey on return from dry dock. Appeared drip got worse once moored up and engine turned off. Read lots about tightening stern gland and repacking but noticed our boat doesn't have typical bolts that can be tightened. Any ideas on how I can tighten this type of gland very much appreciated. Kindest regards Ste