truckcab79

Thank you. Precisely the point I was making. And unsurprisingly still no sign of the proof of assertions otherwise that was requested at least twice. Just a few not very thinly veiled ‘way out’ posts suggesting to me that I would be banned from the forum for daring to question somebody’s entirely incorrect information. 🙄 This forum needs to calm down and just talk about boats in my humble opinion. Be much more interesting.

To be fair that didn’t really answer your question. Yes it’s going to be safer as it’s slightly thicker. It’ll be harder to bend but still easy and it’ll be less inclined to deform when you bend it, but using the right tools neither will deform. If it does you’re either not using the correct tools or trying to bend too tight a radius and should be using the appropriate fitting instead.

Couldn’t agree more. 🙄 As far as bending is concerned it’s worth the price of a decent bender (no laughing at the back). I’ve never had any luck with bending springs on 15/22mm. Can’t recall what brand I have for that but it makes it so much easier. For little stuff I use a Rothenberger. there are cheaper but even the rothenberger is only about £30. Well worth it for clean bends and once you have one you can dispense with some fittings. Less fittings, less chance of leaks. The Rotheerger will bend any thickness with ease. You can bend small stuff round your knee or a bottle but it’s never as neat and quite difficult on small radii. Worth downloading a pipe-bending guide too. Will tell you how to measure and mark your pipe for bends. Saves an awful lot of wastage as once bent you don’t get a second chance.

Plod plod plod. Floors up. Ballast out and bitumen on. Given the weather have had to resort to sawdust to soak out the last of the moisture before painting (water drains through the floor if you recall). Given the fantastic condition of the old floors I’ve got a bit laissez-faire with technique. So it’s now wire-brush, no Vactan and on with the bitumen. Poured in and spread round nice and thick on the basis that any excess drains into the lowest point anyway where it is most needed. Also started getting some of the old ballast back in just so it’s out of my way though I do need to think about water pipe supply and waste layout before the floor goes down. Also placement and mounting of the water pump and whale gulper. Pipework will mostly be above floor but at some point needs to pass under toilet area into / out of pumps and onto shower. Will all be able to be pulled through in case I ever need to, via the hatch is my reckoning

Maybe re-read the thread. I asked questions and queried clearly incorrect answers. Don’t start them off again. it’s only just calmed down 😂😂😂 Unfortunately with forums everyone claims to be the most informed person on the subject. Fact is it’s all faceless so it may or may not be true. For all I know l they’ve never seen a boat. (And the same goes for me too). 😂. I’d rather not just assume some faceless bod on a forum is gods gift to boats if it’s all the same with you. When I get info that is clearly wrong stated as fact then I’m entitled to question it. Unless you know them all personally then to be honest you’ve only got their word for it that they’re so knowledgable. My own short experience on here is actually that first hand experience of the practical stuff is in short supply. Plenty of opinions, which isn’t the same thing. As with all forums. Ask questions, supply answers where you can and be mindful that you don’t necessarily know everything. Works for most things in fact.

Incidentally while we’re side-tracked anyway if you want to guarantee that a compression fitting leaks when ‘over-tightened’ then slacken it off and re-tighten. Guaranteed leak every time.

I’m not going to dispute what you say because I can’t know but god knows how. On stuff that thin it’ll look like a corkscrew or you’ll strip the threads long before you get to that point. Most compression fittings just need to be nipped up. Anything more isn’t doing anything. Only after you’ve done plenty do you realise quite how little they actually need. Counter-intuitive as you’d assume more is better when tightening stuff.

Over-tighten an olive and see if you can make it leak. Whatever thickness pipe you’ll twist it before you can make the olive leak. It’s not an issue to be honest and certainly wouldn’t make the difference between selecting between 0.7 and 1.0mm pipe. Most people trade or otherwise tighten way beyond where they need to on compression fittings. Dismantled plenty where the pipe is very markedly pinched but it doesn’t affect the integrity other than being an absolute ball-ache for the next person to get off particularly if you wanted to reuse the pipe. I certainly wouldn’t reuse pipe that had been pinched but first install it makes no odds.

Can you show me where the regs say that? 😉

Cheers. Take more than that to put me off though 😂😂😂. 1mm is what I’ve already ordered and am using as stated earlier. 👍

Not at all. I don’t wish ill will on anyone. Life’s too short for that. Some people I don’t understand though.

At the risk of repeating myself I’ll leave this now. You’re clearly not grown up enough to just accept you were wrong and to be honest it’s all becoming a bigger issue than it really needs to be, and distracting even more from from whatever use this thread once was. All the best to you Alan.

Me too up to a point. But it gets all silly when people refuse to accept that they are misinformed. We now all know that there is no BSS minimum wall thickness despite claims to the contrary, but have suggested that best practice is to use 1.0mm as I am doing. We’ll now all distract from our errors with 10 pages of nonsense rather than going ‘fair enough. I was wrong’. 😂😂😂 And yet still not grown up enough to accept you were misinformed. Very odd. we can’t all be right all the time A de E. it’s no big deal to learn something new. I do it all the time. You did. And so did I. No issue with that. We can all learn every day. No shame in it.

Bit rich given that you’ve as yet not provided the requested evidence of your earlier made up facts. 😂

And you wonder why newbies don’t stick around. Another thread that could have been useful to someone now full of drivel. Keep gate-keeping chaps and then wonder why ‘your’ forum has nobody on it. 🙄

Now this is DEFINITELY my last addition to this post 😂 but if you read it through you’ll see that I was suggesting that I’ll-informed replies are not answers and are not useful. Regardless of topic. The replies were wrong. Simple as that. Don’t side-track with the usual forum response that because someone has dared question a reply that it’s some huge personal affront to longer-serving members. Every days a school-day and I hope that a few on here have learnt that what they thought is fact (and haven’t and can’t back up) is actually incorrect and they’ll give more informed responses in future. That’s good for everyone surely. Asking questions should never be an issue. Taking offence at someone questioning the incorrect response should be.

Think you’re all ignoring the point of the thread to distract from my issue that people are providing information that’s simply wrong and stating it as fact but that appears to be pretty standard on here. No surprise that the requested proof of some of the statements has never appeared. 🙄 I’ll leave this one and get on with building my boat instead of arguing over incorrect info. Have good days all of you.

I’ll repeat it again. I haven’t said what pipe I’m using, so don’t assume. As it happens I’ve ordered 1mm. My issue is with people on the forum stating a whole load of ‘facts’ that are basically made-up nonsense that they’re quite happy to recount to people looking for info and then defending the fact that a: they’re wrong and b: they can’t produce the ‘facts’ that they’re stating, as you can see from this thread. I don’t get why people feel obliged to involve themselves when they have zero knowledge or experience of the subject. For the benefit of future questioners the correct answer as of todays date is that BSS does not currently state a minimum wall thickness for copper pipe on LPG gas installations but as with anything it makes sense to over-engineer and use 1.0mm. Any other answer is just making stuff up which as I said helps absolutely nobody. Remember you don’t have to reply to a thread if you don’t know the answer 😉. Better for everyone that way. Doesn’t help to say that the BSS is a watered down set of rules. As that’s the only one we’re judged against it’s the one that matters, regardless of your opinion. It’s like taking my car for an MOT and telling me I need to make sure it’s up to the standard in Sweden because it’s better. It might be but it won’t fail in the UK.

Forum rule No.1. Never let facts get in the way of uninformed opinion. 😂

You’ve obviously never fitted any if you think 0.1mm makes a difference. What weight does ‘it seems to me’ hold? How much plumbing have you done? You’re ignoring the point that it’s not ‘the wrong stuff’ and therefore what is etched on the pipe is not a reason for failure any more than any other part of its spec is according to current regs. Nobody has yet produced anything saying that BSS requires this but if you can I’m all ears. Otherwise it’s just another example of a handful of members arguing pointlessly with made up ‘facts’. Likewise. I’ve not actually said what pipe I’m using 😂😂😂. I’m discussing the principle of the regs not requiring what some members are wrongly insisting they do. People come to forums for info. Regurgitating incorrect info because you think you read it on a forum somewhere helps nobody. Also. Hate to break it to you but houses are all piped jn 0.7mm thickness copper tube and they’re not all randomly exploding. Someone will now talk about additional vibration and work-hardening on a boat but smaller diameter pipes are inherently more flexible and like any installation should also be properly supported as per the BSS spec. So……for the benefit of not spreading incorrect information is anyone able to show where it will be a BSS fail?

Christ. If someone dies solely because I’ve used completely legally a bit of pipe with a 0.1mm thinner wall than specified in a document that isn’t what my boat is being measured against then I’ll be the first to apologise to them. What an absurd thing to post. 😂😂😂 See if you can present an example of a death solely caused by this and not poor installation or maintenance and it might have a little credence.

Appreciate what you’re saying but irrelevant if they’re never tested against it surely. I genuinely don’t know but is there a test at any point during a boats life that would question this spec?

Cheers. Probably be obvious if I open the one I’ve got sat in a box waiting. But just to be clear for anyone reading this there is nothing to stop copper pipe of any wall thickness from passing the BSS. It does not have to meet the ISO standard. At least not currently. It’s not that builders are not adhering to a required standard. That is the standard. For BSS at least.

Cheers. I’m on there already as well. 👍

Probably misunderstanding you but surely you could use the bubble tester regardless as the outer diameter is the same regardless of bore? The answer is probably in your post that yours was professionally fitted and passed by BSS without issue.