TandC

Morning all, Our new shell is laying in the marina awaiting some motivation... I'm due to get the internal cabin bilge painted once the weather warms a touch, but then there is the engine bay. With no engine yet fitted, just the Aquadrive up to the thrust bearing, it is a blank bare steel canvas. I want to epoxy it - having had good results with Jotunmastic 87 in the past. But I am thinking about what additional work is required and the order of things - in particular, any extra welding that may be required to install fixing points, brackets etc - couple of questions I'd be grateful for any views: 1) Calorifier - we are looking at large calorifier - 75lts minimum - horizontal to sit on the uxter plate. How have others approached the installation? 2) Battery tray - on the opposite side to the calorifier - would welded fixing points be advisable? 3) With a hospital silencer - do they need a solid fixed support - a vertical perhaps? 4) Cable runs and water pipe runs - would welding in some form of supports that can be used to cable-tie / etc to Any pics and good ideas appreciated. Tim

Morning all, What's best practice for fitting subfloor to the steel stringers (the horizontal steel angle floor bearers creating the bilge)? My old boat had the plywood subfloor screwed directly to the bearers. Good for maximising the headroom but not great for making the boards easy to raise when required as invariably the screws would shear off in the steel etc. That also meant that the subfloor wasn't level due to old broken scews not cut out etc. In the new boat there is decent headroom so I could fit timber to the tops of the stringers, and then the plywood subfloor can be screwed to those. I was thinking 18mm or 12mm ply strips drilled and screwed, perhaps even some grab adhesive too for solid adhesion along the entire length. This would give a level to lay onto and solid enough base to easily screw the floor into. All painted to seal from under-floor condensation, as will be the underside of the ply subfloor. suggestions appreciated.

It looks like this - basically able to source the components around the aquadrive and conventional stuffing box, keeping the distances minimal but not unworkable. And able to get these fitted pronto. I should have had this all thought through long before this point of the build. If anyone wants to learn how to plan and build a boat don't ask me!!

Thanks all. I have decided to go with the conventional stuffing box, mainly driven by necessity to fix on an option promptly. The lesson is to spend more time considering this stuff.... and to ensure you're well ahead of the builder. IanD - thanks for your suggestions, unfortunately I think I've run myself out of time at this point. Nick at TW Marine has been extremely helpful and it will allow the build to progress without delay and we've found the right solution in the circumstances.

Thank you Tony. My thinking was along the same lines that the cost of Aquadrive at this stage is minimal in amongst everything else. When you say may struggle to "get it in" - what would be a minimum distance between the stuffing tube and the coupling to allow repacking? Because of course you're right - it is all these component parts which dictate the position of the engine - how far forward it sits from the V point where the swim joins/ends (does that point have a technical term?!). And then at that point, only then can you decide on the placement of the bulkhead in front of the engine... I guess in my head I am thinking - what is the MINIMUM distance, because that allows the engine to sit further back and the bulkhead to come back too. So, is there a bit of wisdom on how much room you need to allow for easy re-packing? Oh, the other thought I had with relevance perhaps to the bulkhead: The size of the keel cooling tank: It needs to be 12.5 ft2 in surface area. Is it bad practice to have any of the skin tank within the cabin area, the bulkhead mounted over it so that some still extends along the swim but into the cabin... So many variables my head hurts. I should also say that Nick at TW Marine has been incredibly helpful so thanks for that tip. Loddon - thanks for the Python recommendation. I did discuss Python with T W Marine and Nick said it now retails more expensive that Aquadrive...

Thanks - looks like Aqua is now with Halyard - https://halyard.eu.com/aquadrive-antivibration-systems/ . Python Drive - looks like that is another option and from previous posts comment that they're cheaper and take up less length, although those are older posts so things may have moved on. Thanks - grateful for anyone else's experiences.

Thanks - my comment re. easier alignment was really just explaining the extent of the advice from Beta - which wasn't that helpful. Obviously i'm interested in the right system beyond just alignment (which will be an issue for the engine installer anyway). And we do move - just another one of the considerations in my mind. So do still need an engine. Also - where do you even get any advice on Aquadrives from - they seem to have a network of distributors rather than a UK presence... hmm...

Afternoon all, On our new boat - 45 x 10ft shell - we're having a Beta50S installed. This is the Beta50 with an acoustic box that the engine and the PRM150 gearbox sit in, with the drive flange outside connected up to the prop shaft/drive etc. But while we've fixed on that engine arrangement - we haven't fixed what stern gear we should go with.... I have asked Beta for recommendations and I wasn't entirely reassured with the "that's for you to decide" answer, although when I spoke to someone else there they said "well i think a lot of people use the Aquadrive because it makes alignment so easy". Can I ask for any advice on this? We don't do huge amounts of cruising - liveaboards but tied by work to our residential mooring - so hardly chugging up and down the length of the system - should that have any bearing on things. The other consideration is that as we are limited on our boat build length, and want to maximise the cabin space, therefore options for stern gear that take up less "length" - if that would allow the engine to be sat further toward the prop, therefore the bulkhead further, and therefore increasing the internal cabin size (although i guess we're talking about negligible differences). I am at a loss on what the options are and where to start.

Indeed - the current 55lt one on the boat we are using runs out pretty quick with two people having a shower and doing some washing up - that seems a bit miserable, seeing as we are used to having "unlimited" hot water on the old boat which had a Morco (which of course was absolutely fine with having spent 48hrs under water once it was washed out). It may be that 100 is overkill... I think why this thread and everyone's contributions have been so helpful is that I am now reasonably confident I can get a decent size (to be determined) c/fier in the engine bay, where it will be close to engine and to hot water demands, yet not taking up space. If it can go in vertical, against the bulkhead that sounds ideal - but I now need to check what room I have once there is an engine, sound enclosure, and the limitations of the deck hatch. None of those sizes/design details are known yet . All great assistance thanks

No worries..... i am just very grateful for everyone's advice as am a little overwhelmed with refitting the old one, while also having to make progress on the plans for the new... while blocking out the voices in my head that say "WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING?!"

Well, that's why we are getting a new boat built: https://www.oxfordmail.co.uk/news/21402667.devastated-couple-lost-everything-houseboat-trashed-weir-opened/

Exactly! That was the other consideration - is it going to be possible to remove it if and when it goes belly up!

Thanks - I was thinking about that as part of hte pros/cons. We live onboard all year so aside from holidays away we have a year-round requirement for hot water etc. We're also on the river with a high flow rate during the winter - so much so that we are stuck on the mooring for 5 months of the year. That water flow does help keep temperatures up - I've never seen the river freeze. We also have mains power, so I would in the worst case if we were away during winter I could just stick a heater in the engine bay to keep freeze risk off. As you say, that seems to be very much outweighed by the space saving in the cabin and also the ease of dealing with any leaks. That said - im now realising that installing the calorifier in the engine bay, and worst case having to replace it, will be a total bugger of a job working under a cruiser stern, alongside the engine etc....

I see thanks. I have always just had service valves at the pump and also at tank so I can isolate to allow me to remove the pump. But I do see there is a little more risk there with a bottom-mounted supply from the tank.

Thanks 4-50; is your second point referring to the water pump above the main water tank, take off in the top of the tank? When you say "deliberately" - why? I was imagining that the water tank would generate a degree of its own pressure - perhaps as Jen suggested use 22mm supply pipe to give a really positive flow rate into a pump which would be BELOW the tank level. I'm not sure I understand why you would have it above?

Thanks Tony, I was thinking more a vertical one, but you help reinforce the point that I need to speak to the boat builder about both the available space alongside the engine, and suitable fixing points being built in now. As the engine will have a sound enclosure, I shall need to check how much space is left and also the orientation/routing of any pipework out of that enclosure to inform the placement of the calorifier. I was thinking then that the battery bank could be located on the opposing side, which would help in balancing out the weight. Last question: Stainless steel calorifier..... is that a better option than copper? Any recommendations for high-quality suppliers? i prefer to get this right with good quality component not cut corners on price.

Thanks Jen, that's helpful. I can run the cold supply from the bow, through the bathroom at the rear, expansion vessel in the bathroom cupboard, through the bulkhead and into the calorifier. My priority is to work out our window placement - which means fixing the size of our layout - which means fixing the size of the bathroom - which means fixing does it need the space for a calorifier or not! annnnnd BREATHE.... I will try to work out now how much room there will be alongside the engine and whether there is room to fit a vertical calorifier, and how it is secured. There will be a Beta50 inside a sound-proofing enclosure, so I'm hoping there's room alongside that up against the bulkhead for fitting. For anyone with a calorifier in the engine bay - how is secured? Would I need some studs on the baseplate to bolt it down on? a dedicated plate fabricating in for it to stand on?

Great this is all helpful. On water heating options - currently we have a Morco which i love for its bomb-proof simplicity, but it's so weary trying to get anyone to ever service it safe etc. A boiler also takes up room and it doesn't help with heating. So i've made the decision that we take the plunge and do away with gas boiler now. Instead, we are planning on a Webasto/Eber for hot water and central heating, and then a Squirrel stove without a back boiler. We are also on mains hookup and for the majority of winter and so have the option of an immersion for hot water. I'm not sure what is more expensive now - a diesel heater or heating a large tank with an immersion.... I guess if the Webasto fails, we have the option of lighting the fire to keep warm and using the immersion to heat water. With regard the layout, having done our layout plan as best we can, the bathroom will be as Mr Smelly described - down the steps from rear deck, orientated to the left hand side. Immediately on the right will be the bathroom, and then beyond that the kitchen also orientated on the right so this puts all the hot water requirements as close as can be. On the calorifier - I would ideally like it in the engine bay because I really want to max out the space inside the cabin, it seems crazy to put a big water tank inside that precious area if it could go in the engine bay which will be large. I can see the pros of it being inside a cupboard in the bathroom - heat loss is coming inside, create an airing cupboard. But it feels outweighed by the cons of space taken up, and i am a bit nervous about the potential to have it leaking inside the cabin - is it not a little safer for it to be in the engine bay? @MrSmelly - is yours vertical or horizontal in the engine bay, and what size is it? I know that 55lts is currently not enough for two of us living onboard so want to go larger. If you don't mind I will PM you perhaps for a picture or two if you could? How is the calorifier fitted and secured in the engine bay? I'm thinking I need to speak to the builder about this now so that fitting points etc can be fabricated in as they construct, in the right places to allow for efficient plumbing runs off the engine etc. On the expansion vessel - how far away from the calorifier can it be? I could live with it coming inside into the bathroom cupboards.... maybe easier to get it secured, plumbed near to the main water pump and its accumalator. Another thought - the water tank is in the bow so the supply would run down the length of the boat. I would like to avoid having the pump in the bedroom, preferable to have it in the kitchen or even better the bathroom. I dont think that would be a problem would it, running that supply by just its own pressure down to the pump say some 35ish feet away? I;ll stop now! Thanks again for any thoughts

The first of what will be a barrage of questions associated with the fit of our new build 45 x 10. We need to make some rapid decisions on the layout options to inform window placement... and a key one is where the calorifier will be installed. Our current 55lt calorifier is just too small - so we were looking at 100lt and ideally, to fit in the engine bay (cruiser stern). I need to speak to the builder for their advice but was interested in other's views please. Even at 10ft wide, I am not sure if it will fit vertically alongside the engine with its enclosure - but then Im also not sure such a large calorifier would go horizontaly. Any thoughts? I really don't want it inside if it can be avoided - valuable space on a short boat, plus some concerns over if it leaks.

Yes! silly me... thanks

I've had to strip all the 12v out following a sinking and now replacing. Problem is that I've now lost the original wiring diagram and much of the original cabling/fuseholders have been binned in the clean up operation. I'm trying to work out the right approach / not sure what was previously done was correct, particularly with the fusing arrangements so grateful for any assistance. The alternator output is to the main isolator switch - there is a split charge relay (not VSR) - no fuse in this arrangement. Then three main power devices: Solar charger 40amp EP Tracer - 16mm2 cable output to the domestic bank - the manual states a fuse sized 1.25 to 2 times the rated output of the controller. As such, was going to use a 60amp blade fuse. ProDigital 50amp charger - two positive outlets - one to the domestic bank and one to the starter battery. Done in 25mm2 cable as recommended by the manual and the distance from charger to battery is around 1m - 1.5m. Each charger bank outlet went straight into a Megafuse holder with a 60amp mega fuse. Sterling ProPower Q 1000w inverter - the manual states a 200amp fuse to be used - it appears that the input from the battery bank to the inverter was first connected to a megafuse holder with a 200amp fuse, with the cabling on to the inverter unit in 16mm2 and less than 2m cable run. Does this seem about right? Grateful for any advice.

Ah sorry - not sure why the pic isn't showing. I shall get back out there with the vernier gauge

Hello all, I'm trying to identify the thread size of this fitting which is the diesel return from the engine, this fitting screws into a fitting brazed onto my diesel tank to return unused fuel. Is that a 1/2" BSP? I am ordering a replacement diesel tank to be constructed and need the corresponding fitting built in. Any wisdom? It's a Vetus fuel line, fitted on a Lister SR2 Thanks

Great - thanks for all the replies, something to make a start with - any other tips and considerations from those who've developed their own systems from scratch are appreciated

Morning all, Im looking at installing diesel heating for domestic hot water and heating on a 45x10ft new build, but know little of the competing systems nor the considerations around system design. I've read various posts around their troublesome nature if not run for particular times, at particular capacities. Being totally in the dark, I was keen to have a conversation with both a supplier so that I can get an understanding of options and costs, but also some guidance on system design. What are the considerations for number radiators/heating capacity etc... etc If anyone has had good experience of firms who can provide that advice I'd be grateful for recommendations. Thanks Tim