Eeyore
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Posts posted by Eeyore
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If you need to buy an oil pressure switch you can get it from DiPerk but it costs less than their minimum order, I had to get an oil filter and a fuel filter as well to reach the £20 figure (but at least it's post free)
The Perkins core engine (on which the MC42 is based) is "KF30266". this will help Diperk identify any parts. (I kept a note of this because it took Diperk a long time to find it!)
Steve
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I've been bad tooAgreed!I'll come and bang your heads together if you're not careful you know. I'm 6'1" - I'm a big girl ! Watch out you guys!
Kayx
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It's not a red button and may well be silver. Thus far, it's always been out. In fact, I only noticed today there was a button at the bottom. I'm very much hoping to give it a go tomorrow. I'll see how I go just chugging along the canal and then try and turn the boat around again. After that, it's a matter of finishing my packing and maybe moving on Tuesday.
Much as Bottle says:
The silver button (on the casing below the lever) usualy works the opposite way round to a red button (mounted in the bottom of the lever).
The silver variety has to be manualy moved both in and out.
Pull it out to disengage the gears (which is where yours is).
Push it in, with the lever in the upright (centre) position, to return to "gear and throttle". (it shoud only go back in when the lever is in the upright position)
With the engine shut down ckeck that the selector lever on the gear box is in the neutral position when the control lever is in its centre position.
Steve
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Ok point taken, so back to the drawing board then for a small piece of kit that can keep the boat topped up with power and provide a useful by product of heat for the water etc.
I know it sounds like a small generator but I was hoping for a different solution that could run more efficiently.
Have a look at Combined Heat & light (sometimes called Combined Heat & Power) units.
These are often supplied to remote off grid locations and seem to do what you are looking for.
Steve
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Thanks Yoda
So its maintenance free then? I don't need to be able to access it?
Thanks
Kay
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Generaly maintenance free.
You do get a slight build up of sludge in the bottom, not unlike a domestic radiator.
Might be worth flushing through with fresh water when your anti freeze is due a change (not sure of the lifespan of modern antifreeze), or if you are experiencing any overheating.
Just check clips and hoses as per Alans post.
Steve
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I have recently bought a boat with a nice Kelvin P4 - spares are generally considered a bit hard to find and the chance has arisen for me to purchase a newly reconditioned unit at a reasonable cost. So I figure that given I have found the boat that I want to keep 'for ever' - it might be a wise to buy it and park it in the garage for the future.
I have been advised by Baldock that I should fill the watery bits with a good strong mix of anti freeze in order to inhibit any further corrosion, but was wondering what the views are regarding the rest. Any recommendations to stop it siezing up - regular turning over by hand? Oil in the cylinders? Any thoughts about the fuel pump? Just punting about for ideas to be honest, so all recommendations would be welcome.
Cheers
Richard
Found this site; should be something there for you.
Steve
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No comments on my last post folks ??
Sorry about that; I remember typing a reply - perhaps I clicked the wrong button.
Alan has covered it all in his reply.
Steve
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The one I'm familiar with is bad news all round.
Numerous control boards and core engines on a unit thats only a few years old. Probably 6 to 8 weeks between failures.
The company is very fond of blaming owners for "tinkering" - a bit of a cheek when the handbook lists over 100 fault codes and recommended owner actions!
Steve
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Thanks for the posts folks.
I've already removed the 90 degree elbow between the water pump and manifold tank, need to blank off the connection on the manifold tank.
I was hoping to put the oil cooler connections on the other end of the manifold tank (connected to the rubber boots) and then to the "hot" side of the skin tank. Is this a bad thing to do?
Its a PRM DELTA gearbox with a single oil cooler - do you know how long the oil cooler pipes can be from the gear box to the oil cooler? Might be worth extending these so I can get the oil cooler in a better place. They are probably about 18-24" now.
The oil cooler needs to be connected in the return piping from the keel tank in order for the cooler to do its job.
Try leaving the cooler where it is and fitting the coolant pipes to suit - its probably not worth disturbing the oil pipework unless it is life expired (perished & leaking).
Steve
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Hi All,
Right, I *think* we've found the problem. Hopefully.
Charged the starter battery up this morning, and also took the alternator belt off to remove it from the equation. As the alternator was where all my trouble began, it made sense to me to eliminate it for now.
Tried to start her up, and she is now turning over at what sounds to me like the "normal" rate - definitely much quicker. When she tries to turn over, there is an intermittent "knocking" noise from the engine - definitely not heard this one before. Am I right in thinking that we should now be checking the timing?
Think I'm going to leave the alternator disconnected for now and get to the bottom of the engine issue before I put it on - that should be OK, right?
It's incredible to think that this all began from a 3-quid alternator bracket snapping!!!
Cheers,
B (Feeling more optimistic about all this than I have for a while now)
Re timing - give my previous post a go, you probably know rather a lot about your engine by now, so it should be straight foward.
I can probably make it less technical, let me know which bits you need help with.
You don't mention if there is any smoke from the exhaust during cranking?
Steve
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Hi folks,Got the exhaust sorted out on the BMC engine (see previous post!) - thanks for peoples help on that.Next problem....I've got to connect up the skin tank to the engine, oil cooler for the gearbox and also a hot water caliorifier.I'm okay with what needs to be done but have these questions:The water pipe connections on the engine are 28mm ID which seems quite a rare size to find rubber hose in more than 1m length (need about 2x 1.4m lengths!) - any idea where to get it from?2nd question - how to connect up the cal. tank - shall I just make a T off the 28mm pipe to/from the cal. tank?
Just to be sure - the 90 degree elbow between the water pump and the underside (front) of the exhaust manifold needs to be removed.(picture from your previous thread)
The connection on the exhaust manifold needs to be blanked off (short length of hose, something the right diameter and two hose clips will do the job).
This prevents the coolant taking a short cut straight from the thermostat back to the water pump - not good.
Connect the front of the gearbox oil cooler direct to the water pump; you could make part of this in metal pipe and fittings to provide the return connection for the calorifier.
Calorifier flow arrangement as per Alans post.
Steve
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For those of us with the Vetus 415or 417 engines, I believe this link is the full service manual for the base engine (4SL/4SL2).
Service manual is at bottom of page
If you go direct to mitsubishi for parts you can provide the "build code" as well as the engine serial number.
For the M4.17 this is "S4L2 61DM" or "S4L2 65DM", the only obvious difference is inside the fuel injection pump, probably to do with emmisions regulations.
(may be the same for the equivilant thorneycroft models).
Steve
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My son has a 2005 Liverpool boat fitted with an 35 Hp(?) Izusu engine.
We dont know which gearbox would have been fitted
It seems that the coupling has come adrift from the gearbox.
He thinks there is a nut loose inside the coupling that has caused the problem.
He can split the coupling and refit the centre nut when he can see it, but he will have take a suitable socket
What spanner size is this nut
Alex
Edited to say
It now seems to be a PRM 120 gearbox
Have a look at the side view on this drawing.
You should be able to estimate its size by comparing it to the flange dimensions.
The description is "special locknut", so it should not have come loose. Clean the nut and shaft threads and refit using "loctite or similar.
Steve
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Hi Steve
I know what you mean but... you have to use a certain type of USB modem to slot into my router. It won't accept any others so I'm told. Can't win! I was hoping it would be okay if I sealed it in something REALLY water/air tight? Would it be okay?
Kay
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I can only imagine that there is some issue with different versions of the usb system?
This is a possible problem for my intended instalation, as I will also be using the usb modem at home instead of a fixed connection, and will need to use a router.(no point paying twice). Anyone else come across this?
How about putting the modem inside one end of a length of plastic waste pipe. Put a blanking cap on the end with the modem and run the usb extention out of the other end. Take a loop of the extention cable and anchor it at the modem end, this will prevent the weight of the cable unpluging its self. Use a 2 metre length of pipe, and with some clips on an upright surface should be good for about 1.5 metres above the roofline.
Steve
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Hi John
I've got 'three' mobile broadband at the moment - it was the wireless marina service I was interested in. I have endless problems with 3G so when I saw the flyer in the marina - I just thought I'd ask on here if anyone had ever used the service.
Kay
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Hi all...
Thank you to everyone for their input on this. I think I will see what my 'three' signal is like on the marina and if its as bad as it is here - think about trying to get the dongle outside the boat and raised up a bit on a USB extension cable or something. I have plugged the dongle directly into my laptop and stood on the roof with it and the signal strength bars do go up. So, on that finding I think I'd get a better signal if I simply just stood on the roof with my laptop...
It goes through a wireless router at the moment so I can just get an extension cable from the router and lead it outside through a window or something...
Kay
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There is a usb modem available with an external ariel connection, the one I saw also had a memory card in it.
The modem is probably better off in the warm and dry, an external ariel is the way to do this.
There are details of one like this on the "Boaters Phone Co" web site. They also do a range of "serious" external mobile phone ariels for problem locations.
There is also a post somewhere on the forum about a wifi booster ariel?
I have no connection to BPC.
Steve
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Hi all...
I was in our local chandlery earlier on and spotted a flyer about marina broadband provided by www.ineedbroadband.co.uk. It seems to cover quite a few BW marinas and a few private ones too. Has anyone had any experience of it or currently uses it? It appears to be £15.99 a month for 1Mb with unlimited downloads and free connection. If anyone does use it - do you need any external antenna or anything special to connect up to it? Is it a reliable service?
Thank you...
Kay
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As Les says this would be in addition to the service provided by the mobile phone companies.
If this service or something similar was available to retail customers we wouldn't have a problem.
Anyone seen anything similar available to individual customers?
Steve
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This battery was on my boat when I bought it, stowed in a cupboard an not connected to anything.
That is a 50p piece on top for scale. What would it have been used for, can it be recharged, what voltage will it be? It is completely anonymous. It slides into a metal holder.
Any information would be appreciated.
If there are no wires near to the battery I would guess that the previous owner has removed the equipment.
If there are disconected wires near it you will need to follow them back to where ever they go.
DO NOT reconnect the battery to anything until you found the other end!
Steve
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Thanks Chris - does it just pull off or will I see some screws or something?
We've never taken one of these off before...
Can I also re-do my Sterling alternator booster wiring from under that cover too? Its a bit yucky how it's been wired...
Kay
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Well we've all been lured in here by those saucey avitars - but where are the photos of mucky alternators with their covers off
Steve
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Someone posted a link to an online copy of the manual, which has diagrams showing an OHC head.
MP.
You beat me to it
Its on page 50 from that link on post #6 from "Pretty Funked Up"
The page showing tappet adjustment is one of those generic diagrams - which just happens to be OHV
Steve
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Hi All,
Thanks for all the tips and advice - keep your ideas coming!
Friendly lorry mechanic has offered to check out the timing, and I also want to redo the electrical connections as some of them look a bit rusty. Hoping to have another go this weekend if it's not snowing....but the forecast doesn't look good.
I haven't left you all, please keep your ideas flowing if you have any more.
Fingers crossed,
B
Head now back in gear
Unresponsive to easistart suggests lack of compression, so what would cause it to crank over slowly, even with a jump start?
Well maybe the timing is only one or two teeth out on the cam shaft sprocket.
In this case a valve may be slightly open during the compression stroke, but not open far enough to stop the engine turning.
The piston may well be just touching the valve at the top of its stroke; the effect being much the same as the "over centre" catches used on some tool boxes and cases.
You should be able to test for this.
Turn the engine over using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley nut until resistance is felt - then maintain a steady pull on the spanner.
If the resistance is caused by compression it will slowly ease as the pressure leaks away (this is normal leakage past the rings) allowing the engine to turn until the next cylinder is on its compression stroke.
If the resistance is due to valve contact it will stay in the same position. Pull harder on the spanner whilst watching the valves, you may notice some slight movement.
You can also confirm simply by looking at the valve clearances (easy on an overhead cam engine). Turn the engine until resistance is felt.
At this point both valves of the cylinder on compression stroke must be closed ie there nust be clearance between the "bucket" and the cam shaft.
Steve
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I've got blue smoke in my engine room since kay changed her avatar!
Haven't we all
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The quote I was given for a 55ft cruiser stern part fit out whitch included 1st and 2nd fix plumbing and electrics gas line, shower pump out toilet and shower, batton and foam spray all woodwork for roof and other areas . No mention of mecanicl things on the estimate but gave me a Barrus Shire catalouge pointing out the40 hp engine angd at this point I requested the delux control pannel. The work has been done from my lay out drg, Cince my last post I have phoned Barrus to complain about the noise of the engine and the increased noise when shifted into drive, he admitted the shanks is noisier than the Shire but could not understand why shifting into gear would become noisier, he offerd to send a man out to have a listen but not while its on dry land? and suggested holding back the last payment until tested in the water. I have been led to believe they would be fiting the shir as it is mentiond on other of there promo paperwork with never a mention of shanks? What shal I do?
peter c
There have been some issues with gear chatter with the shanks gearbox, this is a resonance issue usualy improved by raising the tickover slightly.
The coldstarting performance of these engines has been likened to the BMC engine. The timer relay sometimes switches the heater plugs too soon which only exagerates the problem. The alternator problem should be resolved on latter engines. The fuel injection pump has its own sump and dip stick! quite a few owners weren't aware of this. Yeah I've been on the course!
If you want something that starts almost instantly you'll want the Shire which is based on the Japenese Yanmar engine.
The builder, like many probably advertised "fitted with 40 hp engine", pointing at something in a sales catalouge probably isn't binding on him.
Anyone out there got any contract experience?
Steve
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Back to my OP... Can anything else cause blue smoke at around 12/1300 rpm?
Anything 'serious' I mean...
Kay
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"Oil carry over" is quite normal on lightly loaded low reving engines, usualy worse if the engine idles a lot (sound familiar?)
There is a technical explanation if you need it.
The fact that it only smokes at higher revs suggests that this is oil lying in the exhaust system being picked up in the hotter & faster exhaust flow when the engine is working harder.
(If it smoked all the time there are lots of possible causes)
Go with Nick & Denis on this one, make sure the oil is never overfilled and try running it for longer at higher revs. Some manufacturers handbooks recommend tieing the boat up and running at max revs in gear on a regular basis to overcome this problem (but warm it up gently for 10 min before doing this).
Steve
Comments on this post most welcome - I've posted some real bloopers lately
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Good idea! I never thought of that. That would be how many billion gallons?
My weed hatch holds an enormous amount of water you know - you'd be amazed!
Kay
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And they say that the TARDIS is just a camera trick
Steve
Kayx
Triton boat
in Living Afloat
Posted · Edited by Eeyore
Tiny has mentioned fitting a primary/water separator filter in the line from the tank, which is especialy important with this engine.
The reason is purely one of repair costs associated with the fuel system on these engines.
The engine uses combined pump/injector units driven by an overhead camshaft. They are a reliable and sound system, but realy expensive to replace, so drain off any water and change the filters regularly.
Steve