kiwiSteve
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Posts posted by kiwiSteve
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On 12/09/2024 at 02:32, Tony Brooks said:
FWIW I think that it was a leather lip seal, but a "rubber/plastic" one of the same dimensions should do. It was also in a steel case, but as long as the body of the seal is stiff enough to press and hold in place, that is not important either.
In the UK any bearing specialist should be able to sort one out for you.
oh I forgot to mention... the seal on the intermediate plate I was having a problem finding.. I found a metric lip seal with the right internal size but larger external so to big for the hole, bugger... so I ended up taking the intermediate plate in to a machine shop and getting the housing enlarged to fit the new seal... so now it has a very modern double lip neoprene seal that should last me and the next owner a life time....
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good idea Tony.. its could probably be the only info up on the net with pictures...
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Hi guys.. nice to see the info being used...
heres all I could find in the book...
its all abit random so check the page numbers to get it around the right way...
important
even though this is a cast iron box and seems "tough as" the casing is very thin in wall and vulnerable to breakage
Great care must be used when tilting the gearbox onto its back, do not let the internal unit slid to the back of the box unrestrained or it will crack the housing and destroy the bearing housing !!
and one more..
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Hi bizzard.. I ment the driveshaft (or pinion i think its referred to in the book) that is bolted to the flywheel that drives the gearbox... its the seal I was referring to
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Thanks John..
The bits arrived today.... and as my luck would have it, the flywheel shaft seal (the main reason i went to all this rip tear and busting) is unobtainable so I'll need to come up with something a bit clever to sort one out.. and the fun continues
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rebuild time... 2:1 reduction gearbox removal
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All the scrubbing and blasting and more scrubbing must have been worth it....
oil after 3.5hrs running....
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On 16/11/2021 at 23:42, Djh said:
Thankyou. I will start ringing around wreckers in the morning. I will let you know how I get on.
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30 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
It could be camera angle, but that oil seal looks very worn to me. I would expect it to have a V point where it runs on the shaft, and the shaft looks as if it might have a groove worn into it. If so, I understand that a bearing supplier may be able to supply a thin metal "shell" that fits over the groove. There is something about such things somewhere in the forum.
yeah this is the spare that is here at home I dismantled it for a practise run... had to build a puller and stuff. I thought I might recon this plate then just exchange them on the boat... I'll have a search for that thanks Tony the pinion my be as bad or worser on the other engine and need it...
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56 minutes ago, john.k said:
Is that oil grooves to lube the planetary set?
Yes.. the pump sits on a cam and pumps oil onto the planetary gear which then runs to the bottom of the box where its picked up by the pump again rather than spinning through oil.. looks like one of those endless threads on the inside of the pinion that carries the lube
theres no cooling on the reverse box and I guess the oil passes to the end runs back down the box and a lot of the heat in the oil would be lost to the cast iron housing then pools in the bottom ready to go round again
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finally got a puller sorted and slipped off the rear bearing, oil pump cam and adapter plate... big rubber seal on the back of the main bearing..
I'm guessing the oil pump is pushing oil through the bearing seal and its pooling in the bottom of the bell housing and being picked up by the teeth on the fly wheel and spraying up top of the bell housing and running down the front at the join....
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On 12/01/2024 at 07:56, magnetman said:
If the 2.2 is running alright then why change it?
They are good engines. You could spend a lot of money and not get any particular improvement.
On 11/01/2024 at 10:38, Tony Brooks said:I would suggest that it depends upon the gearbox. If it is the mechanical DC series, then I doubt there are any spares, so this may be the time to avoid a problem in the future. However, if it is a DC box then I am sure they are longer than modern boxes, and it may have a dropped or offset reduction box, so an engine change may be a larger job that at first sight.
Ive just been through this whole scenario.. dont be fooled an engine change is like a snowball the problems just get bigger as you roll... weight, horsepower, bed length, gearbox rotation, prop size, drive shaft length, reduction, modern wiring loom, slip fees more costs, etc, etc... mate its a nightmare then you find something nasty that will need sorting before you can get it all finished... even more fees and hidden expense...
Stick with what you have or you would be better selling and buying what you want already sorted... trust me..... a bloke i know set out to change his engine he already owned the engine he was going to use and he still ended up spending $13,000.00 NZD (6339.38 GBP) and ended up selling to pay the bill... Bugger!
of coarse if you know a mate of a mate that can sort it cheap and do the job ok then good on ya, give it a go... I'll pray for you
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what about fitting a bladder... cheaper than chasing dry rot from your fresh water leak...
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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:
Most thermostats have a small hole in them to allow air to get past when filling the engine so there will always be some water movement when the water pump is running. That seems to be enough flow to prevent any problems in all the keel/tank cooled installations I have seen.
ok, that makes sense now i think about it, theres got to be some sort of flow just to keep things going in the right direction...
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oh ok... you are probably right... "trying to find a solution to a problem that doesn't exist."... But when the thermostat is shut when the engine is cold there is no water movement through the manifold until the thermostat opens @88 degrees... I guess the water in the manifold wont boil while its waiting to heat up and the thermostat to open so no worries then...(even though theres not a lot of water in there) I was worried that, that small amount may heat up quicker than the engine, boil and turn to steam and the pressure might pop a hole in the manifold or something nasty... anyway just a thought...
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On 04/09/2023 at 08:31, Tony1 said:
People rate the Honda Eu20i very very highly, in all aspects- fuel consumption, noise, lifespan, and resale value. But at £1300 ish, I don't know if I could splash that sort of cash when there's a £500 genny on offer, that will do the same job.
Being realistic, the Atom will use more fuel than the Honda, and it will be louder, and it will not last for half as long as the Honda. But who cares, as long as it does the job you need for a price you are ok with paying?
Also, bear in mind there are some places (e.g. London) where having a Honda running next to the boat is almost a guarantee of an attempted burglary soon afterwards- if you believe all the accounts.
So an affordable, anonymous genny might be just the thing to go for.
Hi... Ive had 2 of the Honda Eu20i gennys.. 1 has 5700hrs on it and the back up has over 7000hrs... incredible eh...
My son is a Honda mechanic and he recommended them to me over 15 years ago as I need portable energy for my business
I just had a new carburetor and valve grind done to the 5700hr one as it was running a little rich,,.. Both still start on the second pull..
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You know how you come up with brilliant ideas that may or may not turn out to be so brilliant after all...
When I set up my BMC marine engine i was worried using a closed cooling system might lead to cooling water trapped in the manifold boiling and causing a fuss, so as I had a few parts lying round and came up with this bright idea... just wondering what people think of the theory if boiling to steam is possible inside the manifold water jacket of the closed circuit cooling system or will the thermostat open before any problem...
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9 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
Y
If you do take the box off, I would advise that you need something to lift and support the weigh of the box so the rear mounting plate clears the mount studs. Then undo the ring of bolts holding the gearbox body AND intermediate plate to the flywheel housing. Then, taking care not to allow the intermediate plate to move backwards, split the box from the intermediate plate and lift it clear. Then you can see exactly what you are dealing with without risking damaging the seal.
... Ive just remembered the box was changed from my original engine so the box has been changed and by a mechanic who possibly damaged the seal as he put it back together (I found out from his boss that he was an experienced truck mechanic but new to marine engines... Bugger ) it was so long ago now (a couple of years or a bit more) I forgot. Thats why I didnt want to mess with it to much as I don't understand the planetary gear thing very well and dont know anyone that does.... He charged so much it led me to believe it must have been a really difficult and specialist job..
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55 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Not a recommendation, a bodge, but I had a series 1 Landrover with leaking half-shafts and they are difficult to dismantle and reseal.
I bunged in a tin of Wynns auto transmission leak stopper and it worked. So well in fact that when I sold the Landy 5 years later it still had not been repaired and still didn't leak.
once I sus out just whats actually happening... this might be an option,, (I just want to go fishing ffs... lol)
10 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:Once you have the box off and had a good look, you can see how to carefully take the intermediate plate off and clean out the flywheel housing.
Remember that I was on about the long bolts through the drum. With the box off it is a good time to take them out for inspection and put them back with the HEADS at the back of the drum, so if one fails at sea you can take it out via the rectangular inspection cover and carry on.
I have a second box here at home so can do some practise runs on dismantling with out having to drive the 70km to the boat every day and one box has the bolts already changed so I will do the same.. great idea thanks
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2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Yes, but if it had EP in before and as you have not had the box off any leaks could have pooled in the flywheel housing until the flywheel threw it about. Also the SAE 20 might have added to if the seal is leaking.
yes I see... so if it could have previously had EP in the reversing box that had leaked through the intermediate plate seal and now the new SAE20 that is leaking through has caused the the old oil to flow confusing the new leak with the smell of the EP...
it is still that thick slippery stinky oil that the ep usually is in the bilge though.. exactly the same consistency and look as what overflowed from the bung
Right... on with sorting the intermediate plate seal... thanks Tony
19 minutes ago, bizzard said:Quite often if a boats marine engine has not used and run for a long time oil seals tend to get a bit stiff a let oil past. By running and warming up the seal can rejuvanate them. I had this when I fitted a s/h Lister ST2 and LH150 box and reduction box. At first oil was transfering from the gearbox into the reduction box. After a while it stopped doing it and has never done it since. That was about 15 years ago.
Man I hope I have your luck.. and yes I have been a little out front on this one as it was only a couple of hours running before I noticed it..
22 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:Resurrecting an old boat with old engine and gearbox is always going to be a challenge. Luckily you seem to have the nous and determination to see it through.
And the guidance of the Master with 50 year old memories, irreplaceable.
so true.. I'm lucky you fellers put up with me thats for sure.. maybe someone else will gain from my posts if there is still anyone that needs this olde information left.. I know we have covered the subjects pretty deeply so the infos good
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8 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
The only way oil can get from the box into the flywheel housing is through the seal.
and that would still only be the SAE20... although it would be hard for me to tell if it was a mix of darker EP from the reduction and the SAE20 by the time it is in the bilge so maybe both seals have a problem... why not... every other thing has been a battle
I tell you this thing will be the death of me... at least some body is going to get a really good boat out of all this i suppose 😇
![20250210_153736[1].jpg](https://www.canalworld.net/forums/uploads/monthly_2025_03/20250210_1537361.jpg.cf625e625d125881a69692c1ec2db0e7.jpg)
New BMC vedette owner needs some info !!
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted · Edited by kiwiSteve
add 1 valve in use