Sparks Ashore

Trying to sort the pressurisation issue I've removed the automatic vent valve and cleaned it. You can remove the cork float and seal then agitate it in a container of warm disinfectant. It was very mucky but still sticky when clean. Spraying with silicon oil made a real difference. I'm hoping it makes a difference in service. I've got a pic but you might be eating your tea! The function of it isn't documented very well but it seems to vent the tank as you remove and refit the tank. A bump above it depresses the valve (a pressurised tank is still hard to start moving). The float closes part of the valve to stop anything getting in to it. (supposed to anyway) I think the best way to depressurise the tank is to carefully release the dump cap. Fitting a manual release valve to the dump cap would be a good modification... The valve i removed is about £13. For anyone wanting a spare cassette they are currently around £100 and some have wheels fitted.

I've just experienced the pressurised tank explosive decompression (urine enhanced ), and when investigating ran aground on this forum. I was actually on a camp ground but being interested in canals, having been brought up near the river Lee Navigation I've joined up. I'll leave up the gory details but I couldn't open the flap before using and when I turned it hard there was a mini explosion covering me and the cubicle. Top tip number one is put the lid down first. cleaned up and all ok until after the journey home when it pressurised again. It was really hard to pull out the cassette. It looks like there is a depressurisation valve that operates to depressurise when you remove the cassette. You have to get it moving first before t will operate though.. I am wondering if the chemical used makes a difference. I'm using a "green" one. Bio washing liquids by the way contain enzymes that help with eating blockages in drains etc. left overnight or while you are way. Enzymes are used on aircraft to help clear galley drains. Rob