Lifeboat Elsie May

IF YOU MAKE A TECHNICAL MISTAKE LIKE SAYING REMOVING BALLAST IS OK, YOU SHOULD CORRECT IT, But instead you complain to the mods that it's my fault !! In safety terms some of the regular know it alls are a menace and a bad example to others. Also rather than post opinions try to do what I do and post links, even if they are not perfect in terms of the subject matter.

Unless that wiring was underwater it has nothing to do with how you wire a boat, although the cost of Gold plated contacts for some systems related to shore power rules them out. Wiring a boat and a lifeboat in particular has a lot to do with keeping the water out, so never assume an area will stay dry, as leaks do happen and boats do get flooded or damp. Electrolysis is also important in the case of trips into areas where the water is salty, like a river estuary. So all of the wire should be tinned Copper, and the terminals crimped not soldered, although I don't use them too often. Got a thing about minimum resistance, so they are a double edged sword. On topic: Irritated that most marine engines do not use tinned wire, as it's not stupidly expensive. Daft bean counters ago !!! https://marine-electricals.co.uk/product/tinned-twin-round-cable-2-x-1-5mm/ Nearly all searchlight and tillerpilot power sockets and plugs are Gold plated contact, in my time offshore and circumnavigation the worst electrical issues are with the Chrome plated brass electrical units. I had a so called marine power socket for a deck light in my stern arch. It just fell apart after I spent several weeks going to windward. So I just soldered the wires together and use a sealant in the hole. One of the flexible solar panels also fell apart, but was replaced under a 3 year warranty.

For your missing electrical education read this from a company who really know their Sh1t about breakers. Failure reasons: Not reseting after the test Not tripping when the test button is pressed Tripping slowly it should be fast and instant RCD switch feeling floppy after the test. The incorrect part is than an ELB/RCD will not function at all if there is no earth. So it does not need testing.

SOOW, he does not have a RCD or ELB. I use a mains double RCD just after the shore pwr socket, and a white version of the link which is an ELB, plugged into the far Easterm 5kW inverter that I use when all else fails and I need 240V power for a tool or three that is not in my Einhell Lithium set. So it allows me a way of moving around using a 7Ah 12V portable power box I made up with a 20A fuse and car type ciggy plug and socket. Use the same battery for the odd 2m VHF Ham chat as I need more height to get anyone even locals. Poratable 50 ohm coax loop antenna, but it's a narrow one so near polar in circular field strength. I make all of my Hamster antennas, even a 5 element Cobweb HF 5 loop set that does not need an earth and was in the garden until a neighbour complained about her TV squiggles, so I pleaded guilty and sold it. Alas her TV's Yagi was a serious one and too close to direct line of sight to the Slim Jim 2m VHF. Old Slim Jim knew about designing any type of antenna that most folks could make. How to kill yourself if you read top of Google search: If it detects electricity flowing down an unintended path, such as through a person who has touched a live part, the RCD will switch the circuit off very quickly, significantly reducing the risk of death or serious injury. Sometimes an idiot will forget that an ELB or RCD is not a circuit breaker or fuse, unless you get 5kW of power through one, and then the attachment to the positive terminals will melt. Net result can be a fire. This is how to gamble on life in Fleabay that I posted, "Count Em Flipdrivel "!!

Ahhh, The cheap Chinese 240V inverter in the advert above, (Might get changed), does not have an Earth Leakage Brreaker, or an RCD, (Residual Current Detector), AND the allo case is not earther. Firstly drill a small hole, and find a stainless washer to fit a self tapping screw, or small thru not and bolt for a section of grren & yellow ground wire to the hull if it's a steel or alloy boat, OR the engine frame. Finally use the test button on the RCD/ELB every month.

Right back on track about my Beta 30, as it turns out that it is a Beta 30, BUT they paint all the keel cooled ones GREEN, So I changed the stock picture, have a drivel free time readin about how you should not install keel coolin. So cool out there if you are stuck in a ditch with a forked engine, just get connected and buy my BETA 30, don't pay more to a horror story of a Cantline 38.

I was never desperate enough to fly for any airline, and lucky enough to leave OATS, (Oxford), after 5 years of traing Oamani Air Farce student, and being trained by the best of the best from WW2 bomber and fighter command, or a few RAF test pilot who had done their time after the RAF with BA. I left Kindlington with a full set, ATPL and Multi engine QFI, (Instructors rating and straight into flight test after an approval from the CAA). Flew with Cdr Nick Bennet RN, Bucaneer test pilot, SRN4 Hovercraft test pilot, SKS 500 & 600A&B, over the the US for a conversion course, FAA ATP and RDX despate authority. FAA examiner on a fair list of everthing except helicopter, Seaplane rating in Florida, CL-215 water bombers part time. DC-10F co-pilot from Sandy Dago CA Brown trousers field and base North from mid summer until around October, Canada a few times according to what is on fire. Did the famous Rim fire. P1 U/S DC-10F, but not allowed to fly P1 due lack of time on type. Went sailing. Great job, but flight test is more fun, as you don't have to hang around waiting for someone to shout fire!

Nit picking over links is a specialty of TB who does now how to warm up a marine diesel: Google top search for warming up marine diesel: In moderate temperatures, such as seasonal sailing, start the engine and run in neutral at a speed just above low idle for no longer than 5 minutes to warm the oil. As noted above, a diesel will not warm to operating temperature until it is under load but when the oil is cold as well it should not take on a load. So start up in idle if possible, make a cup of tea and then continue to warm the engine, BUT if you want to go to full chat, don't forget that oil temperature lags CHT by another 5 minutes. Then you can floor it. PS: I'm not going to buy another Beta from the same company, but from the main supplier: Beta 2020 hp @ 3,600 rpm - Marine Propulsion Engines Beta Marine

Top of Google search which is correct: Giving your cold diesel engine time to warm up is essential. Before operating, you should always allow your equipment to warm up for at least five minutes – this will allow the hydraulic oil to warm. Failing to do so can make the engine work harder than necessary. It's a petrol engine that can be driven slowly after one minute to strap in. PS: I'm still flogging my new Beta 30 & Box, BUT will fit a smaller keel cooled Beta 20 or 24. Off the a pipe bending company PM to get some coiled up 3/4 inch SS or ally tubing. I think the alloy might be cheaper and slightly better for the inside of the cooling tank I'm planning to build. Only got 3 months to get things sorted before jump seating to SFO to have a chat/interview with this company that are not short of a few Bob: http://www.LTAResearch.com

Yes I looked at some pre heat kits, but it struck me as a good way to start a coolent leak unless one is made for the diesel concerned. Not such an issue if installed when the engine is built. If the engine bay is well insulated you can use a fairly small heater to warm the engine up.

Do any of the companies making smaller marine diesel sell or have pre lube pump available, Never heard of one fitted to a small diesel. Oddly enough fitted dual action or bypass oil filters, (One normal and one 2 micron oil filters), to keep the oil clean and extend its life as used in bigger trucks has been fitted to a few engines by go green owners as it allow you to do much longer oil change intervals. I suspect that using one could be interesting if the oil valve stuck or pump ran for too long and resulted in a hydraulic lock and broken engine. No one in Bobs forum of oil sniffers has suggested trying to fit one to a small diesel. Saving Money with Prelube Pumps | Pumps & Systems (pumpsandsystems.com) PS: How much is a Canaline 38 and I'm interested in what size engine in HP terms a steel narrowboat of 60ft needs, rather than has. Might be viable to fit a small radiator in the engine bay in some cases where you are not using enough batteries rather than furnance bricks or some way of ballasting. I was daft enough to think a heavy steel beam inside or outside the hull was the way a steel canal boat was ballasted. They use those on some lifeboats as both rock deflectors all the way aft past the rudder and ballast.

Yes I am interested in learning more about canal boats, as the boat I'm building did go along some of the Scottish canals. I think my boats 8ft odd beam would be too much for the canals down South. Coolant pre heaters are great as they allow you to just jump in a boat or truck and go. The real issue is when an error is made by opening the throotle too far to help the cold engine start and not being fast enough to close it back towards idle as the engine starts, then is when the real harm is done even with a multi grade. Also it results in additional mostly Carbon related deposits, particularly if the glow plugs are not on for long enough. Oddly enough although modern multigrades help reduce cold start wear, it's the anti wear additives that protect the engine for a few seconds when cold starting even with an 0W30, so using cheap oil that lacks them in many cases makes a cold start more significant. I would note that you defo can't use too low a viscosity oil in some engines that use engine oil in the gearbox. So it's a matter of checking the owners manual. Either way I really hate cold starting a diesel too often, so like any system that can raise the oil and preferably block temperture. Heating the oil will do that but takes longer. Also drifting off topic a bit, how many hybrid electric or all electric boats are you seeing on the canals. I stiil plan to fit a 5kW 48V DC go kart motor so I can do a few knots in calm conditions in the summer with what might be a total of 500W of panels. Pic is my engine less lifeboat last year, as I installed a small Houdini hatch between the panels. I should add another 200W with a pair of 50W panels over the rescue deck and 2 more over the cockpit arch. Some similar fairly light boats, (Aluminium hull), have been capable of 2 to even 3 knots in one case in calm condition like a canal. One chap even rigged a set of pedals for a cloudy day! I've always been surprised at how little power it takes to move a full displacement hull when it's dead calm and the hull is clean etc. So can't understand why some canal only boats are still fitting 38hp diesels to any narrowboat that is only allowed to do 4 mph I think it is, or 5 on a river. What RPM are they typically using on say a bigger 60ft steel canal boat ??

Sorry I meant a 50hp average marine diesel, They are twice the weight of the Yanmars. The Bukh 36 version I looked at was around 50% heavier and bigger than the Beta 35 etc. I really do like their design but not the weight. I agree about the tubo versions being bad news in the long term. They are also something of an oil drip issue once the bearings start to wear the seal and replacing the turbo can be a nightmare in some boats. The Garrets in the 350 Detroits of one sport fishing boat I skippered did sound real good though and were OK after 25 years. I did not know you could remove the ballast so easily in a steel boat. So what form is it in. ?? The age of the engine is not such an isssue as the hours and number of stop starts, so if it's under good load and does long run times, then it can clock up some biblical hours. The local Beta dealer who sees a lot of engine issues is still insistant the cylinder glazing from using low loadings is the main deamon along with failing to service the engine correctly. That issue does effect a lot of sport fishing boats that are trolling or boats using the engine as a battery charger. The stick pre heaters are cheap, just look up Wolverine and enter the Watts, as they are not a big ticket item and save time and fuel to some extent. Lots of different sizes. Coolant pre heaters are expensive and would be tricky to install once the engine is fitted. Back to ballast, if you use a heavier engine, but remove the same weight of ballast, that raises the C of G, so unless you have a lot of ballast I would have thought that might not be allowed. If you fit a lighter engine it would be OK to remove some ballast as the C of G is lower. Do canal boaters just ignore any stabilty issues as regards the amount carried when the boat was first built or certified ??

The subject of cylinder glazing in basic, (No ECU or common rail injection system), marine diesels should be something most canal boat owners are made aware of, along with how much power you need in simple terms, as it might be better to relate that figure to the weight of the boat as most travel lifts and modern cranes can measure the weight, although we should be talking displacement, canal boats are similar in hull shape terms, so it does work. It sure does not for other boats, as form and type of the hull becomes important in terms of how much power is required. Warming an engine correctly before a cold start is far easier than folks think it is, although only professsional or real long term owners who like to think of an engine block as something you keep as long as possible, make an effort to get it right in throttle position terms in particular, (It must not over rev when first started, its better it stalls and you figure out that the go lever needs advancing a bit before trying again), rather than a disposable item. If your engine bay is not heated, then fitting heat pads to the sump and using them to reduce the wear factors and warm up time is easy, just Google Wolverine to see a good range of both 12V and 240/115V AC heat pads. Most small marine diesel engine companies have no interest in an engine lasting as long as possible, so would never mention how to cold start their diesel, with the exception of Volvo and Bukh. Oddly enough we are going backwards in engine wear prevention terms to some extent, as they used to sell decoke kits that were listed in the parts catalogue and the procedure described in the manual, in addition to the use of a summer and winter oil of different viscosities if pre heating is not practical. Back on topic and the Beta vs Canaline question does depend on 2 factors that were not discussed, firstly your budget, and secondly what you are using your boat for and total hours each year. The decision will also effect how much you can sell the boat for, as Beta Marine diesel have a real good reputation. How good the warranty is should also be mentioned. Beta for example fitted a bad batch of alternators, but replaced them without too much grief about why they had failed. Also the wiring loom plug and socket seems to cause issues after around 10 to 20 years according to useage. That seems to be due to the use of untinned wire and a loom connector that does not have Gold plated terminals to prevent long term corrosion. They were the only issues I could find. The weight of the engine is also something of interest, as I was surprised that the Canaline one is heavier. Not sure which parts or sections are involved. Extra weight has a big effect on fuel economy and basic performance. So in some ways it's interesting to compare engines in weight terms. For example the 36hp Bukh is as heavy as a 50hp Bukh, so is a gas guzzler as a result. I was looking at buying a Bukh 36 to replace a BMC 1500D, BUT gave up as it would have been bad news in performance terms due to the extra 50% weight, although they are one real tough engine in terms of surviving abuse like overheating or starting in minus 30C. The need to make changes to the engine beds when changing the type of engine is interesting as it can be fairly expensive in some cases. Beta do make special adapter kits for the engine mounts, but that does not mean the old beds don't need modifying as mine did. Also using the old shaft and flange can result in the need for an adater plate as it did for the BMC to Beta 30. Those extra costs amounted to a bill of 500 quid, so installation costs can add up.

Yep, it will be far too near idle, so cylinder glazing will be an issue unless you fit a paddle prop, (Very coarse pitch), or speed brakes !! I hate to think what the fuel consumption will be, and even then you will need to fit a thermostat into a bypass circuit to keep the coolant warm, not that that is going to stop fouled up cylinders and injector tips. Combine that with a cheaper, (Is it Chinese ???), main block and the wear rates of all the components will go into orbit. If you only use your canal boat at weekends, the Canaline series offer a cheap alternative, but try to avoid cold starting by heating the sump for a few hours or allowing warm cabin air into the engine bay or room overnight. That will make a big difference in block wear terms. PS: The block of the 38 seems to be a cheap commercial KIOTI from near the Korean DMZ. The factory making the main components employs mostly cheaper Chinese workers, which is why some folks thought it was a Chinese engine.

Anyone Else interested in scanning the documnts too this forum then PM me, although it would be good if it was one of the regulars. Picture of my old restored BMC 1500D on a pallet ready for pick up, along with the PRM 100. The radiator on the left will be used for a new Beta 30, along with a 1m square cooling plate inside the alloy hull.

OK, that book is being included with the engine sale, but if Tony wants to PM me his address, I will post a copy of the BL lightweight Tractor Range booklet that covers the parts list for a variety of BMC engines. I've just removed the BMC 1500 pages and binned the rest. It would make sense if those pages were on the BMC page, as it makes finiding parts much easier. The pressure cap fitting damage has been repaired by the local Beta dealer.

Thanks for the reply and the issue is that I don't know what the pressure of the new cap is, because although there is a Beta part number on it, there is no obvious pressure. The old cap was broken, but I would like to know what the text book answer is, cos it's sometimes a good idea with an old defective engine to keep the cooling system pressure on the low side, although not low enough to cause a local boiling issue. That way the hoses and end caps, (If it's not a keel cooled version), last longer and with some engines it reduces the coolant in the oil contamination rate, although if your HG is iffy, using filtered rain water and soluble oil, (Cheap machine oil), makes a big difference, as water in the oil is far less problematic than anti freeze, which directly attacks the anti wear layer and additives in the oil causing a serious increase in wear rates. If an engine has a turbo the bearings will chewed up very quickly by an oil with glycol in it. So is a cap of only 6 PSI OK with water and high power ?? Does anyone have a direct number for the senior engineer at Calcutt, as they do sell second hand parts, also I need to know the correct name of the plate. I suppose manifold area cooling box top plate or something. The Morris parts book will have it in the list, but it's a real time consuming PITA to read if the part is not in a main diagram. Once the engine is sold I'm willing to post a set of parts numbers and diagrams to you Tony, as I won't need one set I have. The Morris book will be sold with the engine. If you have a BMC, it makes finding parts far easier if you know the BL part number, as there are a number of good classic car parts companies that only sell to folks that know which part number is involved. Just looked at the pressure cap and it is indeed the same as the original in pressure terms, as it is marked 95Kpa, which is 14 PSI, and that is high enough to make a leak from the keel cooling hoses, cooling plate or tubes more likely.

Sorry, forgot to say it's a keel cooled early model BMC 1500D that I'm selling once I've sorted out a few items that were damaged whilst the engine was in the queue, (Nearly 3 months), for the crankshaft to be checked, reground and polished. The picture below was a real big fork up, as something heavy was dropped onto the coolant box cover, hitting the pressure cap. Can't figure out what the pressure cap fitting below the cap is made of, as it might be possible to MIG or TIG weld it to the cover if I can't find a good used cover. The original broken radiator 15lb rated cap is at the top of the picture of the parts that were changed during the full bottom end job, although the special main bearing bolts were binned. All of them were in OK but not new condition. The new cap was from Beta Marine, the very folks who I've ordered a new 30hp keel cooled diesel from. So, which company other than Calcutt do you think might have the top cover plate ?? Also it's not in my parts catalogue list or pictures, so what is the correct name for that cover and pressure cap fitting ??

Mine Gott, no idea where the k came from! Anyway, I've a swift question, what pressure should the coolant tank pressure cap run at ?? The old cap says 15lbs, but one of the previous owners might have fitted the wrong cap for a keel cooled engine. I seem to recall that the pressure is different for a keel cooled and a heater exchanger version. Peeved the bottom end rebuild company employed the B team to fit the rocker cover, as it's missing the 2 cup washers which are the same diameter as the rubber bushes that have been forked up.

In my dreams, so I think it might be 500W. The chap acroos the street from me has a big RV with 2kW, and If I went nuts I might manage 1kW, BUT I don't like using walk on panels, even if they say they are bomb proof. Long live King Charles!

Thanks, finally found the page in the manual and it does say 37 lbs. I must say you chaps are good at fast answers. Just a quick update, after all the pain and effort of sorting out a new pre abused BMC, by sister and father agreed I should have a new engine due to inheretance tax issues. So I've got a list of folks trying to buy my old BMC after I listed it on Fleabay, Appollo Duck, and Farcebook Marketplace. I did put it on Gumtree for a while, but the deal came through Marketplace and it gets picked up at the end of the month. I get to keep the PRM 100. Not sure if it's worth much, but I've seen one for 500 quid, so will start high and accept offers. The new Engine is a smaller lighter Beta Marine 30, with keel cooling and a shallow sump option. I've paid the deposit but will have to wait until November before it's delivered. Long term plan is to fit a 5kW 48V DC motor, (Probably a Thunderstruck one), just aft of the flexible coupling that has a regen drive capability to charge 4 bigish 12V Bosch deep cycle jobs, or possibly 4 Sterling LiPO4 12V batteries of 100Ah. Not decided yet as the Li batteries are a tad expensive at 500 quid for one. When I finish I should have around 500kW of solar power, but the jury is still out about a small air cooled diesel gen set in the forward survivors/storage cabin. I've already finished collecting good used anchors, with a 15lb genuine CQR, steel Danforth, small baby Bruce of 2kg and a 4.5 lb Fishermans anchor. 2 all chain rodes of 50 mtrs each and 2 100ft lines for the other anchors.

Anyone know the torque figures for the flywheel of a BMC 1500D ?? The less than useful company that did the bottom end job were too busy to refit it. I've also got to put the front pulley and starter motor back on, so if there is anything odd about either job, please post details.

Hi Folks, I'm selling my fully restored BMC 1500D with its PRM 100 box to a chap who has a kaput BMC 1.8 with the same box. So the question is, do you think the mounts etc will line up. Due to the complexities of inheritance tax my father says he would pay for a new engine, and I'm probably going to buy a new Beta 30. I know it will not fit the engine beds, but Beta do make special order fitting plates.