Phoenix_V
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Posts posted by Phoenix_V
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Our group boat is out of water at Willowbridge (Milton keynes) and we need some plating done, The yard do not have their own welder and are happy to let contractors come in and i know that there are a number of welders who will do work here
but can anyone provide recommendations (avoids) pm if need be, many thanks
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I would question whether it is that much cheaper.
I believe the garage price is about 45p per litre but a litre of propane is only half a kilo so the price per kilo is about 90pence.
I am currently buying bottled gas at about £13 per 11 litre bottle about 30 pence more per kilo delivered to the door.
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I have now obtained a copy of the Yachting Monthly tests.
The report was mainly intended to compare the performance of very expensive folding propellors as used by sailing types against a standard 3 blade prop, but they included the Axiom out of interest
On reversing the Axiom achieved181kg bollard pull (173 for the standard) so not much difference there, but when testing the stopping time the axiom managed 7.7 seconds against 9.3 so a measurable improvement there.
On prop walk the axiom was 9.3% against 13.9% so a definite win for the Axiom here.
In fact all other things being equal these 2 benefits could have swayed me towards the Axiom.
however it was not so clear cut, at full speed ahead the Axiom could only manage a bollard pull result of 213kg against 264kg from the standard and a top speed of 7.1 knots against 7.5 knots so seemingly considerably less efficient. I did wonder if they were tending to over prop the Axiom used for these tests as that would explain the higher intermediate speeds found in the Waterways World tests and other reports on here, but the lower top speed as the engine would never reach full revs. There was no comment on these aspects in the report but on the Axiom Website it states that the prop only reached 2900 revs on the bollard pull test but on the speed test reached the engine's rated 3500 rpm so in theory perfectly matched at least in this part of the test. So I dont know - it does look as if it may be less efficient in forward than a standard prop and therefore use more fuel which is certainly undesirable though for a canal boat the other advantages may be worth a sacrifice here? Unfortunately mine is a barge and may venture to sea so I am reluctant to loose any power as well as suffer worse fuel consumption.
I am writing to Axiom to ask for their thoughts and will let you know any reply.
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On a lot of broad locks (but not all) opening the side paddle next to the boat will direct he water flow so as to pin the boat to that side, with the opposite effect if the offside paddle is open.
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I am looking for a small multifuel stove to install in my new build project.
The Acorn 4 or less well specified but cheaper Valor Willow appeared suitable and available at a reasonable price - BUT - I am mindful of the fact that a new British standard for installing stoves in boats is due out and am concerned that neither appear to be CE marked, the appropriate CE apparently being BS EN 13240 or 12815 this may create some difficulties in the installation,
Does anyone know why Acorn Valor and many others are not so marked, (I thought everything had to be these days) and whether it is likely to create subsequent problems with the installation and RCD.
I see on ebay that there is a supplier of stoves of unknown make (presumably chinese) at half the price and all said to be tested and CE certificated by an "independant european laboratory" so perhaps i should go for one of these or are there any British Stoves that comply?
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Following this topic and related ones with interest (apart from the auto gearbox diversion that is) as I shall be propping my new boat soon.
Gibbo have you fitted an axiom yet, if not are you still going to, has anyone got a scan of the ym article they could send me
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I've been getting quotes for plastic water tanks, bespoke size to fit V bottom of my hull. Best one is from Holt steel and plastic fabrications, has any one on the forum used them and if so how please or otherwise were you (by pm if appropriate of course) thanks in anticipation.
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It's often better to go to these places in person, so some clue about your location might get some helpful suggestions.
We know one in Hertfordshire, but I think contact would have to be over the counter - I don't think mail order would be a possibility.
We live in Hertfordshire, who was this please
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A couple who hired from us last year have e-mailed and asked 'who builds the best new Dutch Barges?'
I haven't a clue as I don't know the first thing about them.
They also asked if anyone hires them for holidays and I don't know that anyone does.
All help appreciated, appreciating the current sensitivity about 'recommending' things !!!!
We looked at hiring a DB about 3 years ago, couldnt find any in the UK but there are 2 companies on the Shannon Erne in Ireland we went with Corraquill, friendly people boats all different check the maker of the one you are hiring, Riversdale have more types which are currently available a small sagar some bransons and some home built ones
Corraquill Cruising
Drumetta, Aghalane, Derrylin, Co Fermanagh. , Email: ed.weeks@ntlworld.com Web: www.corraquill.co.uk
Riversdale Barge Holidays
Ballinamore, Co Leitrim info@riversdalebargeholidays.com Web: www.riversdalebargeholidays.com
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Personally I think I would go down the get an expert in to measure up make them off site and then fit them for you.
However if I were to make new front doors for my boat this is how I would go about making them.
Measure the door frame properly as in make sure it not out of wind and is actually square
then make a plywood template and 'test it for fit'
next transfer the ply template to steel and get a local enginnering shop to chop it out of 4mm steel
test fit the steel just to make sure.
next weld on or bolt on hinges? Personally I would go for weld on hinges.
Set the door within the frame and pack out until there is equal space all round. Temporary bracing might be useful here.
mount weld on hinges temporarily. A big welders magnet comes in handy!
Tack weld the hinges on.
remove bracing packing etc and check operation.
Once happy weld up properly.
The doors will be stronger if you get the metal working shop to fold the edges for you from memory when we had 2 doors made it was about £100
if they will do them in pickled and oiled steel it will be easier to prepare for painting but will depend what they stock
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Oh dear! It was a filthy night, very poor visibility. I thought I made out the letters B I S M A..... on the bow and I just had time to get off one Spearfish Mk2. Hell of a bang! I can give you the co-ordinates: 52 37' N, 1 37' W. There's probably an oil slick. Best I can do, sorry. I feel a court-martial coming on.
There will be a court martial following failure of a user to notify the boats new position, (which was Hartshill and not the sofa)
but thanks to those who reported its position to us and saved a lot of anxious searching in the absence of said users
and it does show how good the forum is at this sort of problem.
Interesting thing too BW were phoned and were able to advise the location about the same time as the forum.
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Please help we have mislaid our boat, Bargus a Small woolwich motor with wooden top/part canvas. Its a shared boat one of the members may have moved it and forgotten to relay this information. Was at Polesworth probably heading south, has anyone seen it recently? If so where was it?
07734597456 / 07900075471
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I remember Bargus being moored in Paddington Basin in the late 1970s. The owner was Brian Honeyball, a teacher, and he was friendly with Elaine on the converted station boat James which moored under the Westway flyover. Eventually Bargus moored outside of James. I recall it was said that Bargus had a 'composite' bottom, which is to say the front section was steel, whereas further back it was still elm. I think the engine was a Lister HA3, situated where the boatman's cabin had been.
Steve
that's us, we bought the boat after Brian died, I dont think he had her for long and all I know is that after her carrying career ended she was bought from Anderton Canal Carrying company about 1969 and converted, she still has the HA3 at the back but the bottom is all steel now and the cabin has been rebuilt.
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Thanks all.....
We are also having major problems with our mobile Internet, so having trouble replying.
We decided not to try and refill the empty pound, because although short, it's quite wide. Unfortunately it's not just a case of putting in 3 feet of water, as there is so much detritus in there that you would need to put in maybe 5 feet of water to guarantee to float over all the crap.
So we came around by Limehouse.
An adventure....
1) The last electric lock on the Lee seemed not to want to let us out, as we sat in the bottom of it for an eternity, with the gates refusing to open.
2) Nowhere at all I could see to moor at Limehouse.
3) Locks on Regents that could only use one ground paddle, as the anti-vandal lock refused to come off on the other.
4) Police "incident" with towpath shut off with "do not enter" tape, (well everything else has happened today).
5) Bloody bottom gates at Old Ford refusing to stay shut in the wind.
Anyway we have managed to find a spot a bit above that, albeit that it was dark before we moored, and we are knackered.
We did get all the way up into Hertford, although we were only there about 20 minutes! We came down from Dobbs Weir this morning, so thought we had set ourselves enough of a task with Ducketts available. Without it it's been a slog.
Worst thing of the day though was the blocked sanitary station at Stonebridge. Truly gross.
1 sorry forgot about that, i think the top gate leaks badly and it is difficult to make a level
2 strange there is usually somewhere even if you have to moor just before the "corner" you should get in and it's accepted practice to breast up
3 Oh dear, they are usually quite good, if slow
4 it is normally quiet here nowadays
5 they dont shut, never have
Shame you couldnt stop at Limehouse it's really nice, hope you had a great trip otherwise.
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it's not far to Limehouse as long (as the electric lock is working) nice safe mooring on the wall lhs (breast up if full) and good beer in the Cruising Association if open if not try the prospect of Whitby a few hundred yards away then a few locks up the Regents in the morning to get to Victoria Park
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I have been boating on and off on the River Lee (and Stort)since 1977.
It has always been local custom and usage to leave gates open on leaving the locks and still is.
This was supported by the lock keepers a few of whom were still left then.
The gates on the River Lee in particular are very hard to work and BW deaf to complaints.
If there is a leaky gate on one of the canal sections there will usually be some sign age and then boaters do shut the gates as required.
The system works well.
as far as Stonebridge is concerned BW turned the electrics off rather than put up explanatory signage or better still rectify the leakage, their behavior was simply disgraceful and is what comes of people running our waterways who have no boating experience.
if you visit these waterways - as with any other please follow local practice.
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A small group of us run a part converted small Woolwich (Bargus) we will be at Braunston for the Historic Boat do at the end of June if anyone would like to take a look
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Can anyone tell me if Cat C designation requires an independent inspection by an approved body/person? One peron has told me yes, but a boat builder I know says it can be self-assessed, just as with Cat D.
Many thanks for any help.
As i understand it 12m and under can be self assessed
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Thanks to Alan and Chris - really useful practical information, now does anyone know if double pole rcds and mcbs are really required (for the Recreational Craft Directive) and if so recommendations as to exactly what to ask for in the electrical shop?
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Take a look at Gibbo's Smartgauge site. He has all the schematics on there for AC wiring. clicky
Thanks, thats very useful but i specifically want to know what type of neons to use to indicate power on and reverse polarity and how they are wired, and also with regard to the mcbs and rcds the RCD (as in Recreational Craft Directive) seems to require double pole units wheras most house wiring uses single pole.
The rcds appear to be available double pole but are really expensive, i just wanted to check I had read it right and they really are required. I presume one just uses two mcbs to obtain a double pole mcb as I cant se 2 pole units?
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Did Gary ever post the circuit or can anyone help out and provide one, specific points are 2 pole mcbs and rcbs required?
many thanks
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The barge we are fitting out has Jotun polyurethene 2 pack on the topsides and will need touching up or a complete recoat on completion. Trouble is it was sprayed on and I dont think thats practical for me but I am told this product is very difficult to apply by brush.
I would appreciate any advice, therefore, as to a suitable alternative 2 pack polyurethene product/brand that can be brushed.
bump
anyone?
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Hi all
I agree with the 2 pack for longevity comment. Resolute was initially painted in 2 pack from new and the dark blue cabin sides are still looking good 9 years later. The downsides are that it's less easy to apply and much more of a problem to touch up; which is why the blue main panels are the only remaining 2 pack paint. Everything else is synthetic enamel, a mix of Craftmaster, Masons or whatever we have in the dock at the time at the yard (Norton Canes Boatbuilders) of an approprite colour.
Paint choice is highly subjective, even amongst the professionals. Over the last month I've had high praise from one coach painter for Phil's new formula Craftmaster paint, while another thought it less good than the original...it's horses for courses in many respects and depends on factors such as the quality of finish required, skill of the painter, time available and conditions that you are working in. The flawless finishes achieved by professionals working indoors in controlled conditions are less likely outdoors. And don't forget that 90% of the finished job is down to preparation...banging the paint on isthe relativly easy part!! Good brushes too...I'll vote for Purdys.
Cheers
Dave
The barge we are fitting out has Jotun polyurethene 2 pack on the topsides and will need touching up or a complete recoat on completion. Trouble is it was sprayed on and I dont think thats practical for me but I am told this product is very difficult to apply by brush.
I would appreciate any advice, therefore, as to a suitable alternative 2 pack polyurethene product/brand that can be brushed.
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Can anyone tell me the name of the prop shaft coupling pictured? Rubber doughnut type. Half is still on the shaft (they couldn't work out how it came off) - this is the gearbox side. Its on a boat with a Thorneycroft Mitsi engine and a 'hydraulic type' gearbox. No markings at all on the coupling. I thought that someone on here is bound to have one.....
And if anyone knows how to get the shaft bit off I'd appreciate a clue -won't see it till tomorrow.
Dave
it does look like a centraflex, i dont know how to post a picture but if you google centraflex on google images it will bring one up. The centre part has two threaded holes into which a bolt can be inserted and (after removing the other bolts) as these 2 bolts are tightened will push the insert off the shaft, not sure if that will work though if the coupling is already apart and its still frozen on the shaft
Wooden Window Frames
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted · Edited by Phoenix_V
I believe that Sagar boats fit wooden frames made in house to their barges, not sure if they are double glazed, may be worth trying to take a look at one, also some of the early Chinese made narrowboats had wooden windows but the one I saw was being removed as it had started to rot so protection of the wood especially the joints is important