Phoenix_V
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Posts posted by Phoenix_V
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11 hours ago, Ally said:
I am just getting to the end of fitting out a tiny 20ft narrowboat as a studio boat. I made the poor decision of buying fibreglass porthole liners, as the wait for wood ones, which is all I've fitted previously, was far too long, and I've been trying to keep costs down. Nightmare. I am sure I'm missing a trick here.
Your thoughts please...especially if you have actually fitted them, on the best way to do so. I've tried a couple of ways with little success.
I'm really wishing I had gone with wood now!
We made ours an interference fit in the cut outs of the lining, I dislike glueing someting like that in case it ever needs to be removed, some fit better than others, so every time we hit something those ones fall out, but not a grand nusance in the scheme of things, I've had a little success with stick on velcro but never really pursued that, cheap enough to give it a try?
What we do like is that they do not need varnishing and never get water stains like all of the wood linings that I have ever seen do.
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44 minutes ago, Sir Nibble said:
If the starter has been running long enough to burn out the solenoid then the whole unit will be toast.
Thanks for your comments.
indeed it is looking like that may so but I now have to wait until they get round to the job to find out if that is the case, if so is it likely to be repairable or need replacing? presumably there are cheaper sources than Beta? or even the local Kubota dealer?
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22 minutes ago, Sir Nibble said:
It's extremely unusual for a starter circuit to be fused. I've seen solenoids burned out to the point of short circuit but that's a certain indicator of the starter "running in mesh" and is a symptom not a fault.
There was some mention of the starter "hanging" but between his English and my Dutch whether it had or not was unclear so it may be the whole unit anyway?
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27 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Because most of the diesel start ignition switches put the heaters on with the start solenoid as well.
OK I didn't know that (although it looks unlikely from the diagram), will ask them to try Sir Nibble's test first then move onto other things like the heaters
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3 minutes ago, Bee said:
Not sure if the fuse blows in 'run' or 'start' . Sometimes electricity is hard to understand.
I will recheck their description but understanding was blows on "start" only.
trouble is you can't see electricity at least until it gets very bad
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6 minutes ago, Bee said:
The fact that it didn't stop rather suggests that it might not be the starter but the engine stop solenoid, on the Beta 43 its a cylindrical thing by the fuel pump. If that fails the thing will not stop and you have to pull the rod by hand to stop the engine. I would not suspect the starter or anything to do with it unless it refuses to disengage when the engine is stopped and just keeps turning the engine over constantly. If that was the case a manual stop would not have worked. If I was there (!) I would take all the connections off of the engine stop thingy and see what happens., a burnt out stop solenoid might just have a dead short.
I did suspect that but if the solenoid is energised to stop it would only blow the fuse when the stop button is pressed wouldn't it? In the unlikely event that it is energised to run the fuse should blow on the "run" position before you get to "start"
9 minutes ago, bizzard said:Surely the starter motor can be tested independantly on the engine with jump leads and or energizing it with a wire from a battery to the solenoid.
Bit wary of that if solenoid is shorted there would be rather a big spark
7 minutes ago, Sir Nibble said:Either the component or the wiring, what else is possible? Well that about sums up all fault finding.
I would suggest disconnecting the starter solenoid and then try it.
Thanks will ask them to try first, the solenoid and starter seem to be combined in one unit, do you know if the solenoid is likely to be available separately
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57 minutes ago, Sir Nibble said:
This doesn't sound like a starter problem. It sounds like the boatyard are replacing fault finding with guesswork and any fool can do that.
They don't hold themselves to be electricians but are local (and I am not and cannot be) and if we are fairly sure it is the starter makes sense for them to remove it and take to expert. AFAIK the fuse feeds the panel, everything works fine on the panel until they turn the key to the start position then nothing happens except fuse blows other than a chafed wire between the starter and keyswitch what else is possible
52 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:The bent copper busbar connections for the glow-plugs on a Beta are exposed on the cylinder head, a carelessly dropped washer/nut/spanner etc. can short them to ground.
but I presume these are only energised when the keyswitch is turned to "heat" why would the fuse blow at "start"
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4 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
it could be lots of other things. Chaffed wires with exposed conductor shorting to another wire, or to engine metalwork for example.
Jen
fair point will ask him to at least visually check and measure the resistance at the solenoid
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2 minutes ago, David Moseley said:
Thank you for your comments and advice. Maybe you could advise on a better selling platform.
Do the marina have a monopoly on sales, if so you are limited to that one broker, apolloduck is used by many brokers to advertise, if you have a choice of broker look at those nearer to the boat, boatshed are prepared to travel but are a franchise, I have no idea how good the local one is, then there is the for sale section of this forum as I mentioned.
It may not have sold yet because the location is too far for some to travel or as someone else pointed out the price is too high but i would give it a little while and take your brokers advice before reducing
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Thanks for those thoughts. It is always a problem doing things remotely and I am not sure of the boatyard skillset though I am sure they are better than me. I need to double check with them at which point the fuse blows; if as I understood it is only after you turn past the heat and run positions to start then surely the only extra items in circuit are the starter and it's solenoid and any other associated relay. If so it might be quicker (cheaper) for him to remove the starter for specialist report than spend time fault finding himself?? I hope there is a local repair facility but thought it best to be armed with the knowledge of how much a replacement/refurb might cost.
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Can't get to the boat due to covid travel restrictions, the boatyard have run the engine for me but it failed to stop, after a manual stop they tried to restart but found the 40 amp control panel fuse blown, replaced fuse and it blew again as soon as they tried to restart the engine. They want to remove the starter for inspection. Any thoughts please. Does anyone know whether the stop solenoid on these engines is energise to run or to stop? Does anyone know the Kubota part No for the starter? Thanks
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4 hours ago, David Moseley said:
I think you are writing comments without any knowledge in this case.
I have cheque stubbs, invoices, and reciepts to qualify my pricing.
4,900 Aintree Boats
995 Airhead toilet
2742 Diesel cooker and oven
2120 Kuranda...electrical monitoring
107 fenders and locks
29 screwfix
40 clear plastc sheet.
570....for signwritten name on both sides
150 aluminium Solar mountings.
200 elec cable, hose and switches
69 Marineware...pans
There are LOTS of other small additional outlays.
My TOTAL OUTLAY 49000 AINTREE
7500
EXTRAS..Excluding my labour on MANY internal fixtures and fittings. (Woodwork teacher 39 yrs.)
EXACT TOTAL 56307.
I hope this justifies my asking price.
David Moseley.
David, I do not know if your asking price is realistic, good luck with your sale, I was pointing out that the advice often given that buying secondhand is very much better value than new no longer necessarily applies in the current market which is generally thought to be a "sellers market" Buying new is still not a nobrainer as the cost of extras would have to be factored in and whether one is prepared to wait (apparently 18 months in the case of Aintree)
If you do not want general comments and maybe help the sale perhaps do another post in the for sale section?
I would be interested in your experience of the airhead though.
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A little research shows that it is on at £58950 which looks like about £4000 more than it cost new and probably about what a new one currently costs (albeit apparently with an 18 month waiting list) so the old theory of a second hand boat being better value than new no longer holds in the current market.
edited to add I am talking about the boat here and not the loo, though I see that the airhead costs a staggering £1000, is it better than the other home grown versions in some way?
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We once got stuck in a rather wide Thames lock, went in next to broadbeam hire boat which had all fenders down, no problems, lock emptied, neither of us could move without much reving of engines and cursing. Lock keeper disapeared.
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There are two or three driver less self propelled barges and one dumb barge plus crewed tug engaged on this dredging contract on the Yser River in Belgium. The driver less barges are equipped with numerous cameras. It is not clear whether they are fully automated or if there is a driver in a remote office as is the case with some locks and bridges.There is a crewman on the boat, I believe officially as lookout, though he spends most of his time on his mobile phone as is the wont of youth, he does have one definite job which the robots cannot do (or the designer forgot) and that is to lower the radio mast when going under the fixed road bridge at Diksmuide. There is also one lock where he presumably does the ropes. He does not appear to have any obvious way that he could take control of the barge in emergency. Poor chap has no cabin to retreat to if the weather is bad.
As far as I remember they were not electric though.
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I changed my insurer this year and did look at Craftinsure, much more straight forward underwriting process and policy than any of the others and reasonable price but in the end did not go with them as I thought there were one or two catches in that wording.
i.e. in the amount payable
We will pay the reasonable cost of repair for loss or damage not exceeding £xxx Reasonable replacement or repair may not result in the appearance and condition being the same as that prior to the claim. In the event of total loss or constructive total loss, we will pay £xxx or at our option, provide a replacement boat of a similar age, size and type.
and the exclusions whilst similar to others go a little bit further than most;
- Loss or damage due to wear and tear, depreciation, gradual deterioration, or mildew.
- Theft from the interior of Boat Name or place of storage ashore unless following forcible and violent entry, or theft of gear and equipment from the exterior of the boat unless violence and force are used.
- Loss or damage resulting from electrolysis, osmosis or similar conditions.
- Loss or damage due to escape of water from boilers, calorifiers and any other fixed water installation or appliances unless installed and maintained in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations, and unless heating and hot water systems are drained if the boat is to be left unattended for periods in excess of 30 days.
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1) large job just need partner's permision but you will have to avoid cutting through structural beams under deck and may need to fabricate a suitable upstand so the flat houdini hatch can go on the curved roof, why do you think you need one. Kedian of ths forum can advise further.
2) calorifier is best option thats why most boats have them changing will be expensive and if you have no knowledge of work with gas or live on board must be done profesionaly
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sounds like this, no fuses the circuit breakers do the job with perhaps one very large fuse near the battery
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/12-way-illuminated-mini-switch-circuit-breaker-panel.html
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grape pips they go through the human body but not the pump
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15 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
But if your antenna for your 25 watt set is set up on top of 60 foot mast (as it is on the Cat) then you don't need worry at all.
If it is set up on a NB with a mag-mount aerial 3 foot in front of the hatch / slide (as it was on our NB) then you need to reassess and move it.
quite right but in both cases the strating point is the calculation and the result should be the same for both
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so 100% then?
It strikes me that the equipment on boats is standard and there should be a standard accepted figure for distance rather than hundreds and thousnads of us doing exactly the same calculation but using diffreent assumptions - bit like the 60/40 red diesel split
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I get the calculation of average percentage of time transmitter is used (though the time period to be used over which the averaging is done is 6 minutes and not 60 as someone assumed) but how do you get a figure for average erp (as opposed to max)
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7 minutes ago, George and Dragon said:
I certainly want an indoor paint shop. I don't understand how any professional painter could provide the highest quality without one.
there are indoor paint shops and there are draughty bareley covered sheds
Argg! Who has successfully fitted fibreglass porthole liners?
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Recollection hazy now havent seen the boat for 9 months but when we used the velcro we had to glue wooden blocks to the porthole to fill the gap I don't recollect any issues here , with either the wood sticking to the porthole or the velcro to the wood the actual problem was sticking the velcro to the boat lining which had a vinyl covering. I think we probably used polyurthene glue for the wood.