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steelaway

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Posts posted by steelaway

  1. Hi Steelaway and welcome to the forum

     

    No we don't need help - we're bikers

     

    I suspect that an attempt to start a sub forum might be met with resistance or the offer to seek another already existing forum

     

    However there has recently been a suggestion that we organise a boating bikers banter for cwf next year

    I have a Triumph Bonneville T100 (05) what do you have?

     

    I have a K1200s and we are up for a meet any time - as you can see we have a full set of waterproofs!

    (Taken between races at this years TT)

    Are we going to get into trouble for this thread?

     

    Alex

  2. I would recommend 2.5 sq mm 3 core "arctic" flex available from "screwfux" and B&Q amongst others:

     

    http://www.screwfix.com/prods/63305/Electr...183AG-2-5mm-50m

     

    Unless you have a 2.5 KW generator on the boat

    It is also not necessary to create a ring circuit on a boat.

    The maximum current available from a land line is 16A - one length of 2.5 is rated at 16A and your circuit breaker should be rated at 16A. There is no point in having a ring circiut capable of 32 amps.

  3. It seems to me with the number of members biker photos that we should organise a bike rally not a boat rally.

    Why do bikes and boats seem to go together. Is it because we value our independance or being members of sub cultures.

    It seems a bit strange that one is done at very high speeds and the other at very low speeds.

    Shall we start a semi forum on bike problems

    Do we need help?

     

    Alex

  4. I'd love a copy but haven't got publisher (and don't know anyone who has). Do you have Acrobat Pro so you can turn it into a PDF file?

     

    Hi there

     

    I have spent the day learning how to make PDF files and have sent it to Gary. He has said he will place on the forum so it is available to any one.

     

    Alex

  5. Thanks folks,

     

    I do intend having an external controller, but specifically is there much advantage to the much more expensive alternator/battery charger?

     

    Lee

     

    All I can tell you is that I would not change mine, I have had it for 3 years and have never been short of electrical power.

    I have an 110 amp alternator and it's very assuring to hear the engine revs drop when the controller starts the alternator charging - you know it is charging hard

    It is also very simple to install, you take the wire from the alternator to the controler - you take a wire back to the battery's.

    No complications (no modifications therefore no issues with warrantees) just make sure the wires are big enough to carry the maximum charge the alternator is rated at.

  6. Hi,

     

    Does anybody know what one of these things actually does? Is it worth the extra pennies when compared to a normal alternator controller?

     

    Lee

     

    Buy one!!

    Absolutly crucial to have one.

    It will charge the battery's at the maximum that your alternator is capable of, faster and for longer than any ordinary controller.

    I does what it says on the box.

    By the way I have no connection with Charles Stirling and having talked to him I am not even sure I like him.

    Wait for ChrisW to give you chapter and verse

  7. We made a cruising log for our own use.

    Over the last 4 years it has been perfected to be of maximum use.

    It lists the date/daily cruising time/locks/hours counter/stops/ect

    I am happy to let any one have a copy but you must have MS Publisher and a two sided printer.

    If any one can tell me how to post it on the site I will happily do so

     

    Alex

  8. When I went back to Densie after xmas I found the domestic batteries (4X110ah) were flat, and wouldnt recharge. Looks like I need new ones, the previous ones lasted 18months (about 5-6months solid usage). From previous threads and Tony Brooks website I understand that deep cycle 110ah would be appropriate. Most recharging will be done on the move using a modern 70amp alternator, no special controllers.

     

    The only reasonable price batteries I could find on the net were NUMAX L110s. Are these OK? Assuming they will fit would there be any point going for 135ah's. Are there any others people would recommend? Is there somewhere good in the Braunston area to buy batteries?

     

    Thanks for any advice.

     

    Mike

     

    Go with ChrisW

    Good WET battery's and a charge controller.

    I can recommend 6V semi traction they will give low power forever - but don't try and start an engine with them - totaly different animal.

     

    Alex

  9. Hello all :rolleyes:

    What is best on a liveaboard that is going to be used for a non Marina based Liveaboard 12v or 240 via an invertor.

    Gary

     

    Hi There

    My Tenpen'th

     

    In regard to 240V. If you are fitting a washing machine (2500w) you need a generator on the engine. If not spend your money on a good set of battery's (min 400Ah) a charge controller and a 1800w inverter. Every thing else will run of that.

    It allows you to use domestic fridge/hob (igniter)/digibox/DVD player/TV/iron/toaster/micowave/ect.

    Even with a 240 generator you will still need an inverter when you can't run the engine.

    As the other guys said you definitely need both.

  10. Thanks so much for fast reply and advice.

    Also wondering what measures can be taken to prevent airlocks, and which ones I could incorporate...

     

    Hi

    Airlock problems

    It all depends where you are going to fit the calorifier. If it is the engine bay will it be on the swim horizontally or best is vertically by the side of the engine. If it is in engine room the pipes (22mm circulaters) will have to go up through the hull above the swim and down to the calorifier the top loop will encourage an air lock. Maybe a bleed-able tee at the highest piont.

     

    Alex

  11. Have just decided that I'd like to heat my new Sailaway narrowboat by a backboiler from the back of a Squirrel stove. I am planning for this to heat one radiator and a coil in the calorifier

    However, Just don't know where everything should go...

    Have read a couple of books on central heating and came up with a piping diagram that I think should work (see link), and was wondering if anyone could give any advice on it.

    Particularly wondering if positioning of the header Tank was ok...

     

    Piping diagram

     

    Also, does anyone know what is best to use as a header tank?

    Was planning on using Hep20 plumbing for most of the system, apart from 3m of copper going into the backboiler, as I thought plastic might melt - Is this safe and does anyone else have a similar setup?

     

    Thanks

    Tristan

     

    I would be tempted to put the calorifier at the end of the run and in series, so that the whole flow is through it.

    The radiator will take any heat it wants due to the hot water rising.

    The header tank only has to be above the highest part of the system.

    I would buy an engine header tank from one of the engine manufactures - Barrus do nice one. Shouldn't be to expensive

  12. Can anyone offer an opinion, please, on the inverter wattage needed to power a vacuum cleaner?

     

    Thanks

     

    Richard

    Hi Richard

     

    As with all electrical items on a boat the first rule is to read the wattage of any item before you buy it (it will be written on it some where)

    A domestic vacuum cleaner can be up to 1400w therefore you will need a minimum of 1800w but I dont think you need any thing like that on a NB.

    I have a little re-chargable - lasts about 3 hours between charges takes only a little room to store and cost £35.

    If you have a 1800w inverter then that is the maximum load - at any one time - otherwise the inverter will overload and switch off

    Remember always look for the watts. Womens hair dryer are the biggest problem.

  13. Suppliers quote

    "Note - Heat exchanger in boiler is constructed from aluminium, therefore

    a stainless steel calorifier will be required. Speedfit or other similar plastic

    plumbing fi tting should be used as copper is not compatible."

     

    If the calorifiers are too expensive then it could be, for me, a show stopper.

     

    Regards

     

    Which bit corrodes away - the calorifier or the boiler?

    Many boats have webasto/eberspacher heaters with aluminium heat exchangers and copper calorifiers!

     

    Alex

  14. Spoken to Albatross marine and they are happy to take a look under warranty, however I cannot get the damn thing off the prop shaft!

     

    I've removed the retaining ring (the one with 12 holes in it) and the female version of this but the whole unit is stuck fast, must have surface rust must be holding the thing fast to the prop.

     

    Help !! Any ideas ?!?

     

    Hi there

    If it has taken this much power to smash the coupling, the whole lot could have spun on the shaft. Stainless is notorious for tearing and could have welded itself onto the shaft. Nightmare!!

  15. I'm toying with the idea of getting a flexible coupling fitted to our narrowboat - like a python drive or a centaflex etc. Assuming there is room for one, would it have to be done out of the water in order to put in a shorter propshaft? Has anyone experience of having such a thing fitted?

     

    Thanks in anticipation

    The CentraFlex is all you need, they are as good as it gets. It may take up an inch or two of shaft. If you feel through the weed hatch you will be able to tell how much you can push the shaft through before it hits the rudder. You may need to slacken of the stuffing gland but it will only weep a little water. This is the maximum room you will have to slide in the coupling.

    While you are installing this, it would be a good idea to re-align the engine. Unless you are very lucky the engine will have settled on its mountings over the years and will be out of alignment

    When you have the fixed the first half to the gearbox (NB. the nuts on the coupling can spin very close to the gearbox case - spin the gearbox by hand and check they do not touch) Fix the other half to the prop shaft and slide the two halves together. They must slide into each other without any effort. There is a flange that will help you with this.

    Accertain where it is fouling and adjust the engine mountings -UP/DOWN - LEFT/RIGHT until it does.

    If you find that when it is fitted if the propelor is less than 2-3 inches from the rudder you will have to shorten the shaft to aviod rudder wobble. Ideally the propelor should finnish 1-1.5 inches (two fingers?) from the hull bearing. If not you will have to shorten the shaft.

    Good luck and you will be amazed with the results

  16. I'm toying with the idea of getting a flexible coupling fitted to our narrowboat - like a python drive or a centaflex etc. Assuming there is room for one, would it have to be done out of the water in order to put in a shorter propshaft? Has anyone experience of having such a thing fitted?

     

    Thanks in anticipation

     

    The CentraFlex is all you need, they are as good as it gets. It may take up an inch or two of shaft. If you feel through the weed hatch you will be able to tell how much you can push the shaft through before it hits the rudder. You may have to release the stuffing gland a little but only a little water will weep through.

    That is the maximum room you will have to slide in the coupling, without shortening the shaft. (An hacksaw will do it but it is 1.5 inches of stainless - take your time!)

    While you are installing this it would be a good idea to re-align the engine. Unless you are very lucky the engine will have settled on its mountings over the years and will be out of alignment

    When you have the fixed the first half to the gearbox (NB. the nuts on the coupling can spin very close to the gearbox case - spin the gearbox by hand and check they do not touch) Fix the other half to the prop shaft and slide the two halves together.

    They must slide into each other without any effort (there is a flange joint to help you with this). Accertain where it is fouling and adjust the engine mountings -UP/DOWN - LEFT/RIGHT until it does.

    If you find that when it is fitted if the propelor is less than 2-3 inches from the rudder you will have to shorten the shaft to aviod rudder wobble. Ideally the propellor should finnish 1-1.5 inches from the hull bearing. If not shorten the shaft.

     

    Good luck and you will be amazed with results

    Alex

  17. I have a friend with boat on the Thames, it's approx 33' x 12 ' but has an air draught of approaching 8'. Whereabouts, other than the Thames, can he cruise, any ideas anybody?

     

    Lee

     

    Buy the Nicholson Guide (for your area) it tells you all the dimensions of passage, at the beginning of the chapter of every different waterway. Or log to Waterscape they have all the maps and restrictions - on line

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