fudd
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Everything posted by fudd
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Because the skin tank for the generator is welded to the baseplate and I’m bored.
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I’m going to. What I thought was the old cable to a broken monitor was actually a cable to an old pump. It was heavier gauge than the SmartGauge cable so I thought it would be ok. Apparently not. thanks.
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There was a pump connected to the batteries that was redundant. Access is very limited so I cut into the positive cable just after the fuse which was about 2-3” from the terminal. I then connected the SmartGauge cable to that via a 3amp in-line fuse. What is wrong with that? The monitor worked ok for a year or so, then stopped working.
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It’s not a question of “that’ll do”. could you please explain why it would be a problem.
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I’ll remove the 20 amp fuse and connect directly to the terminal. It’ll be a bugger of a job but for peace of mind........
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Thanks Tony. The bilge is dry now. It has been for a few years but with time on my hands I want to do all the little jobs I should have done 10 years ago.
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That’s what I’ve done. Works perfectly well with no moving parts. I used 15 mm Perspex tube that fitted into a push fit elbow with a washing machine shut off valve inline.
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My engine bilge is separated into two parts. One half I cannot get at because I have a large diesel generator installed. It really is impossible to get access to it. There is some rust that I can’t get to. I could possibly get a Hoover in there to get rid of any loose bits but other than that I’m stuffed. Can anyone recommend or advise me of anything I could possibly flood it with. Thanks.
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Good morning. I got a couple of new fuses from a friend and put one in and it’s all fine now. Still not sure why the 3 amp fuse didn’t blow. Thanks all.
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I’ll look tomorrow. Thanks No. Twin red-black multi strand
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I’ll take some tomorrow. I’ve shut up for the day. thanks for your help everyone and stay safe.
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That’s exactly how I’ve done it. I’ve checked the flex and it’s all ok. It could, I suppose have been an old fuse.
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I’ve tried 3 new fuses. Blows straight away.
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It’s a modern blade fuse. The 3amp is a glass type. I’ll try and connect it up without the blade fuse in it. I still can’t understand why the 3amp hasn’t blown.
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Do you mean fuse age or the actual unit itself? They are. The 20amp is about three inches from the + terminal and the 3amp is 2” after that.
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Because the access to my batteries isn’t very good I disconnected my old broken monitor out and just connected the SmartGauge to the old cable and put a 3 amp inline fuse in the positive cable. It worked for about a year and then stopped.
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Good isolation everyone. my SmartGauge has a 20amp fuse with a 3 amp fuse in the positive cable. The 20 amp blew but the 3 amp didn’t. Has anyone got any ideas as to why it blew in the first place and why the 3 amp didn’t. Thanks.
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Kedian side hatches/doors 1 yr on (not impressed)
fudd replied to magictime's topic in General Boating
Ambrose was a grammar school in Enfield. We had a similar shop just across a field. Used to nip out lunch time and burn our lips on a single Cameron between 3 of us. Oh what fun we had. -
Kedian side hatches/doors 1 yr on (not impressed)
fudd replied to magictime's topic in General Boating
Was it Ambrose Fleming by any chance? -
Thanks. It’s not easy to get around my engine but I’ll have to try harder.
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Following up on another thread, I want to drain my skin tank. It’s built into the floor of my engine room. I can only find one hose going into it. Surely there should be a flow and return. It’s a Lister HW3. Thanks in advance.
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I have decided to try and drain the system, but for the life of me I can’t find the return from the skin tank. Surely it wouldn’t just have one hose going to it.
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Thanks everyone. I’ll do my best. Stay safe and well.
