Phlea
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Posts posted by Phlea
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1 hour ago, Phlea said:
I’m looking into this at the moment for my new boat so I can leave it Bankside with the inverter off.
I’m putting a 12v 5G router in place, and looking at home automation kit which is battery/12v powered and which will connect to the WiFi.
Currently looking at this for monitoring…
https://shellystore.co.uk/product/shelly-ht-white/
And this for potentially switching the diesel boiler…
They also do flood sensors
https://shellystore.co.uk/product/shelly-flood/
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2 minutes ago, Richard10002 said:
I am off grid, so wonder if there are 12v or 5v gizmos that do similar things?
I’m looking into this at the moment for my new boat so I can leave it Bankside with the inverter off.
I’m putting a 12v 5G router in place, and looking at home automation kit which is battery/12v powered and which will connect to the WiFi.
Currently looking at this for monitoring…
https://shellystore.co.uk/product/shelly-ht-white/
And this for potentially switching the diesel boiler…
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53 minutes ago, David Mack said:
That looks to need a mains power supply, so presumably can't alert you if the shoreline supply fails.
It does as it contains a capacitor which holds enough charge to text you when the mains fails. Will also then text you when it comes back on again.
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I use one of these to very good effect, temp can be remotely monitored and alerted, as can power availability, and the heater can be switched manually or automatically. You do need a mobile signal within the boat, I hang mine in a window on an extension lead to be sure.
https://www.tekview-solutions.com/powertxt.php
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1 minute ago, Alan de Enfield said:
And - what is 'the system'?
C&RT waters ?
all inland waterways, only connected waterways lake district, Norfolk broads, Rivers, Tidal Rivers ?
England only, or Great Britain or the United Kingdom ?
I see what you mean. It seemed like such a simple question.
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1 minute ago, MtB said:
Navigable by what?
A canoe presumably?
Coracle
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1 minute ago, MtB said:
As always, first you have to definitively define the question. Measured what exactly? In full detail please.
(Yes I could guess what you mean but the above still applies.)
Hmmm, length of pounds/reaches plus length of locks, plus (average width of a lock gate x no. of locks x2), of navigable waterways of the UK I guess
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34 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Just accept
"Its a long way to Tipperary, Its a long way to go"
Yeah, but Irish Sea crossing…
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… thousand miles?
The system is variously stated as being, in totality, one of these lengths. Has anybody actually measured it and is there a definitive answer? Just wondering.
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1 hour ago, magnetman said:
The magnetic nav lights sound pretty cool to me. Are they auto-switched by light conditions? If so and they have a white function they are very useful.
I really like the sound of them.
Don’t think they are auto but I don’t think that’s a problem for me
1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:You did say 'a full length narrowboat' in which case the rules apertaining to 'up to 20m metres length' are not applicable - a full length NB will fall under the 'up to 50 metres length' category.
You will also find that the tumblehome on a NB means that any nav lights attached directly to the cabin will be immediately 'non-compliant'.
You need to make a bracket that keeps the light vertical.
Extract :
Another factor in the proper installation of sidelights is that they must maintain their required minimum intensity in a vertical sector from 5 degrees above to 5 degrees below the horizontal. They must also maintain at least 60 percent of their minimum required intensity from 7.5 degrees above to 7.5 degrees below the horizontal. Installing flush-mounted sidelights, designed to be mounted to a vertical surface in the hull contour, without providing a mounting surface tooled to be vertical, shifts the vertical coverage sector. This also results in non-compliance with the Inland or International Navigation Rules.
I think they will sit on top of the hand rail, horizontally. The LEDs are masked off to the correct horizontal angle from what I can see.They may not be 100pc compliant to satisfy every internet pedant, but I reckon they’ll be 90something percent there and good enough for the odd evening cruise on the Thames.
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17 minutes ago, jonathanA said:
somebody had to , so it might as well be me 🙂
2 nm is not very far at all...
The nanometre (international spelling as used by the International Bureau of Weights and Measures; SI symbol: nm) or nanometer (American spelling) is a unit of length in the International System of Units (SI), equal to one billionth (short scale) of a metre (0.000000001 m) and to 1000 picometres.
sorry... i think you meant 2 km 🙂
🤣
37 minutes ago, GUMPY said:@Phlea Google is your friend but just in case you don't know how to use Google here are some notes for boats up to 20metres.
Over that you will have to look up the commercial regs.
Thanks for the link. I find your sarcasm a bit odd
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@GUMPY to make your comment marginally more useful to the forum please could you outline the exact specs for nav lights for powered craft on the UK inland waterways where they’re required. I imagine this might include heights, visibility angles and distance
Thanks
2 minutes ago, GUMPY said:Regs for which length of boat?
Size of lights varys with length.
A full length Narrowboat for instance? Thanks
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Perhaps, but I read that they’re visible for 2nm and meet the regs (albeit US ones(are they the same though?))
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Re wiring for nav lights, I’ve just bought a set of battery powered magnetic led nav lights to save having to have this cabling. Search for ‘navisafe’. Perfect for the few times I’ll need them and may also serve as supplementary tunnel illumination on their white setting. HTH
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37 minutes ago, Captain Pegg said:
My business registration with CRT required that I have MCA Boatmaster or equivalent for my operation. I hold RYA IW Helmsman (and also happen to have a CRT CAART certificate which allows to move CRT craft) both of which are Boatmaster equivalents for Cat A and B inland waters.I’d expect any mover to hold RYA IW Helmsman but it really is a base on which to build experience (it’s a two day course).
In terms of insurance you’d be better off ensuring you’ve got marine legal cover which is what you’d use to claim against a mover’s liability insurance.
Bear in mind my liability insurance cost significantly more than your boat insurance and I’m effectively passing that cost on through my fee. Why buy it twice?
Thanks for this. So, the mover is required to have business registration with CRT. I’ll check this. My insurer’s not charging any extra for the extension, but I will check the legal insurance
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5 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
As dies every boat insurance policy I have ever had.
The employee (paid skipper, mechanic, yard boat operator etc etc) Must all have their own commercial insurance.
I don't feel comfortable relying on someone else's insurance to cover my risk, hence asking for the extension. Thankfully ins co very helpful on this.
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6 minutes ago, Captain Pegg said:
A paid skipper will be about one third the price based on what’s posted above.In terms of risk find someone reputable to move your boat - plenty of clues in this thread - who has relevant certification, explicit liability insurance covering your boat and a degree of skills and knowledge covering various types and boat and waterways (and is also wise enough to know what they can’t do).
Finding ways to keep boats moving is part of the boat movers’ job (any fool can make a boat move, you should be paying for the skill and knowledge). However if I had a boat that broke down beyond repair I would recalculate my fee to cover the journey that was actually done.
In any business arrangement risk has to be reasonably shared.
Thanks.
What's the relevant certification that's needed? Does a boat mover need to have some sort of professional skippers qualification, or be registered with CRT in some way?
Another interesting aspect I've come across in buying a new insurance policy for the boat is that the wording explicitly excludes cover for anybody I employ, which would include a 'boat mover'. They insurance company have been helpful and agreed to a temporary extension to cover this risk once they've been supplied with details of the mover and their insurance. Others may not be aware of this trap...
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9 minutes ago, PD1964 said:
How old is the boat and do you feel like it’s been well maintained? Or is it an old boat that you feel may need maintenance? basically are you confident with it and that it will have no problems should you move it be water?
I'm pretty confident that the boat's solid and should be reliable. I've got RCR cover, and if push comes to shove I can drop things and go there to sort things out myself. It's more trusting somebody else to moor it in a safe area, not cill it etc etc. I'm pretty sure I'm just catastrophising but I do like to be in control of things...!
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Thanks for all the sage advice. It seems it'll be much cheaper to hire the skipper to move it. Just feels a bit of a leap of faith though, entrusting my new purchase to someone else for a couple of weeks whereas a crane feels less 'risky'.
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Related to this thread I think, I'm having a boat moved down south soon on a 'day rate' but was wondering how this compares to cranage and road transport? What's a ball park figure for this?
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So, this begs the question in my mind of why not run some water down dukes cut lock and fill the pound from the river? Or perhaps this is not allowed as it’s the EA’s water not CRT’s!!!
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Sorry for the long URL, hope it works. A by and large realistic representation of canal life from across the pond…
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I'm in Maidenhead, and would thoroughly recommend my local, The Boathouse at Boulters Lock. Very good gastropubby type food, middling prices and pontoon mooring.
The Waterside is indeed fantastic, with Michelin stars and would be great it you wanted a very special formal dinner. Not sure it'd accommodate a narrowboat on it's mooring though but worth asking ahead if you fancy it. An alternative 'Roux' offering is located by Maidenhead Bridge at more Brasserie prices.
Oakley Court is good for a hotel. Great location and a fantastic building which starred as the house in Rocky Horror and the School in St Trinians!
French Horn in Sonning is superb for very traditional French Cuisine at a high-ish price point, but is on a backwater and may be inaccessible depending on your boat and/or stream conditions. There's mooring in Sonning a five minute walk away though. Also the Great House in Sonning which is good, or the pub, The Bull which George Clooney tried to buy so I guess is OK.
The Bounty is quirky but not a gastronomic destination unless you enjoy the 'prison chic' of having your (generally fried)meal served on a metal plate.
Spade Oak is good but don't bank on there being a mooring and if there isn't there's no alternative within a reasonable walk of the place. The King's Arms in Cookham as previously mentioned is excellent and the same 'mini chain' as the Spade Oak. Many other options in Cookham if you fancy a short stroll. The restauranty White Oak is very good indeed, as is the pubby Old Swan Uppers.
Marlow's got many options, the best IMO being Tom Kerridges 'The Coach'. By the bridge and with potential moorings is the Compleat Angler with a great Michelin starred Indian restaurant.
Henley also has many offerings as mentioned.
Reading's not really the best for a 'special' experience IMO.
Hope this helps!
Bon Appetite
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These really tickle my fancy for when my narrowboating days are over...
https://www.peterfreebody.com/brokerage-detail.php?boat=8
External paint colour schemes
in General Boating
Posted
What a great tool, thanks for sharing!