Wet Weekend

Changed engine oil and filter (yet again) last Saturday. Vetus 4.15 engine. Obtained oil and filter from Halfords. Their 15W40 mineral diesel oil is API CF4 grade which according to the Vetus manual is approved for use in this engine. I noticed that an on-line chandlery were offering Champion F110 filters as an alternative to the Vetus STM 0051. I know Halfords aren't necessarily the cheapest, they cost £13.99 (5l oil) and £6.79 (filter), but they are better than most and readily available: Filter has slightly different external dimensions but fits and seals perfectly. Cruised for 1 1/2 hours afterwards and all looks good. Now to the point - is there a location on the forum where people can post this information for the possible benefit of others? There may not be a great deal of scope for this sort of thing on narrowboats but I've seen diesel CH system glow plugs mentioned where manufacturers seem to charge a premium and sourcing/ordering parts can be time consuming.

Radiomariner, thanks for the advice. Always good to get the opinion of those more experienced in these things. I have made a note to give this some attention when next in dock. Blackrose, I know all I can do is STBO but to summarize my own understanding, it seems that most boaters are probably like me, not quite sure what sort of blacking has been applied in the past and obtaining a different recommendation from every boat yard you consult. Entrusting a boat yard to undertake the work, as I did last time, is probably something of a lottery regarding chemical compatability, standard of cleaning/drying before application, curing before putting back in the water. My new blacking has lifted in a line below the kitchen sink drain, whereas below the engine exhaust outlet, where the old coating appeared to have dissolved a little, the new stuff is perfectly sound. A Jotun bitumastic was applied this time. What I do know is that most people seem to worry a lot about what's going on below the waterline - but at least you're keeping a close eye on it so you won't get any surprises. The best policy! If I'm feeling brave I might try the Isleworth Drawdock next year.

Blackrose, well done. That must have been 'exciting', and an excellent post when you must have been up all night keeping watch! Dedication above and beyond ..., I would say. This is what mine looked like after 2 years (having been pressure washed): This is the baseplate, but as it was resting on sleepers in drydock I didn't lie down in the mud for a close inspection, just held the camers low down and pointed it under the bow: Will it be Isleworth again next time?

I too have this gearbox, driven by a Vetus 4.15 engine. No failures yet (500 hrs) but my experiences re. clunking, wall of silence from Vetus, etc. are as everyone elses. Gearbox oil - my Vetus engine booklet specifies 'Engine oil SAE 20/30 whereas sticker next to filler states 'Use ATF only'. The original fill was certainly ATF, so when I have changed it I measure approx. 0.8 litre (as stated in Vetus engine booklet) and find that small quantity is vented as it warms through use. Level settles slightly above max mark on dipstick. If as stated above, lubrication is compromised when running in neutral, is that because there is some reliance on the output shaft providing splash lubrication? If so, perhaps we need to ensure gearbox oil level is as high as possible. I will also review my tendency to leave engine running whilst waiting for locks, etc.

Carlt, Fuzzy, where did you acquire these rules that determine what is or isn't someone else's business? Isn't it up to them to decide that?

I understand the needs of a woosey dog - a warm boat at all times is a basic requirement! My heating is diesel, so perhaps not very green. I hope others can offer something more helpful.

Here's another variation on the theme: Sink/bath drain from B&Q. 3/4 inch (19mm) brass hosetail glued with Araldite to overflow connection (cured in oven at 100C for an hour to help it flow into the joint). Base is sealed with the plug supplied. Its cheap, but not too nasty. It works, and with the shower tray sitting on the plywood floor the drain fits above the ballast. I grant you NASA may not approve .... but then again, having seen 'Apollo 13' ...

That looks amazing, Blackrose. Thanks for the detailed description, I think I will look into this a bit more and place on my 'Things To Do' list. Do let us know how you get on at the Chiswick Grid.

That sounds like fun. Is it a shingle bank or similar - nice and level? Do you use an anchor? I guess the two locks you refer to are at Brentford. I went through there last year but stuck to the main channel up to Teddington but I suppose around the back of some of the islands it could be quite shallow and sheltered.

At the time I was leaping around the lock like a mad thing whilst the bottom gates were deliberately tormenting me, I was half expecting a smirking Jeremy Beadle to appear and stuff a microphone in my face! (It used to be Jonathan Routh when I was a kid. (Sorry, I digress).

That's an interesting point, Chris. To ensure a min. wall thickness of 0.8mm I think the pipe may need to be EN1057 Type (or Table) Y. I can't find find 8mm or 10mm 'Type Y' pipe on the bes site, only 15mm and 22mm. Type W is available in more sizes and sold as suitable for gas but the wall thickness is generally 0.7mm, or even 0.6mm. Now, the commonly used imperial sizes are quoted as being 20 gauge copper, which is nominally 0.8mm I think, so notwithstanding the traditionalists who may prefer to stay with imperial measures perhaps they are more widely used because they comply with the ISO standard and the metric pipe doesn't? That seems strange doesn't it? But then again, like the RCD, trying to get to the bottom of reconciling recommendations and legislation is sometimes like a game of Chinese Whispers. Why is life so complicated?

Yes, thanks Malc. I guess with a bit of care its probably OK. Broad locks, single handed, done quite a few but never tried cracking one of the top paddles with the bottom gates open. Boat would need to be well secured, etc. Overdo it and things could get interesting!, narrowboat across lock being swept away or bottom gates slamming shut too hard. It needs a bit of thought, and I'm a slow thinker! Thanks.

I'm not an accredited expert but my research suggests metric is fine. BSS only says 'seamless copper tube'. The tubing as supplied by www.bes.co.uk is available in all metric sizes and ' Suitable for water and gas installations. ' Incidentally, the same grade (Table W, Annealed (BS EN 1057 Soft). Kitemarked. ) is available from Scewfix in 8mm and 10mm. Also, Calor Marine supply regulators with metric outlets (although just about everything else on their site is imperial) and the Alde Bubble Tester is available with metric compression fittings, so all in all it looks to me as if metric is OK.

On this year's trip across London and up the River Lee (very nice), a couple of locks posed a challenge. Most notable was Old Ford Lock at Victoria Park. Had a problem in both directions, with the bottom gates opening by themselves. Picture the scene, close one gate, walk around the lock (no bridge across the bottom end) and by the time I reach the second gate the first has slowly opened!... and so on. Walk back briskly - not quick enough. Run back across top gates (v. dangerous), just in time - run to top paddles to start filling lock, etc. You get the picture. If more crew/passers by are available - fine, but if not...what would you do? Is there and old working boatman's trick?