RLWP

November 5

9 hours ago, R H said:

I think it's an old lister engine. Removing it completely presents it's own issues - balance, stability, prop shaft/stern gland, etc.

Splendid, we specialise in the repair of old Lister engines. If you want an idea of what that might cost, give Sue a ring on Monday. 01926 356200

Richard

November 4

21 hours ago, R H said:

They have an engine but it is non-working (and un-repairable), which is then being classed as having no engine.

Thanks

The obvious solution would be to remove the engine. What engine is it?

Richard

September 17

1 minute ago, Tracy D'arth said:

You may be able to use rods from another engine, cutting and profiling the tappet ends to get the correct length if necessary. Are the Kingfisher ones hollow so the oil travels up them or solid?

That's my thought too. I'm interested to see what the old rods are like

Richard

September 11

Flush it through a few times in alternating directions to make sure it isn't blocked. Also flush the tank out as much as you can

If the boat has a skin tank you don't really need a heat exchanger. I presume the rubber pump rotor is OK?

Richard

September 11

It needs violence to remove it - and be careful. The cap will probably be OK, if you strain the heat exchanger you'll make the tubes leak, and the shell is alloy and probably corroded. Don't be surprised if the flanges come off

Why do you want to dismantle it?

Richard

September 6

Fuel pump door joint. If you are lucky, we have some old 'card' ones about which are far easier to fit

Richard

September 4

11 hours ago, Steve56 said:

Certainly looks that way as the engine shown in the photo and the engine number shown are totally different engines.

Makes a change. Usually I find old Lister masquerading as other old Listers due to parts being swapped around

September 2

That is not a Lister Alpha

Richard

July 19

12 minutes ago, jonathanA said:

interesting comment, just recently I had the rubber cap thing come off on mine, fortunately it was just as I was mooring up. There isn't a lot of 'meat' for the jubilee clip on the cooler itself, only just enough... The same cap developed a small split a couple of years ago and was replaced, but the security of the cap/jubilee clips on the oil cooler is something I will pay more attention to when servicing the engine. I'll also check to see if there is way of taking any of the weight of the hose/fittings off it.

really useful update thanks both, and great to know that such a fantastic level of expertise is available.

It is not unusual to find these engines installed with the skin tank on the port side, which is fine for the water outlet, calorifier and so on.

The water inlet is on the starboard side above the flywheel housing through the oil cooler, which means there has to be a pipe going from one side to the other above the gearbox. Popular choices are lengths of hose or copper pipe fabrications

These are fine, they can put strain on the oil cooler end cap which it isn't really designed for.

Mind you, it isn't hard to attach the feed pipe to the oil cooler with cable ties in the absence of a more engineering solution

Richard

July 19

I was reflecting on this on the way home. The end cap on the oil cooler will be what caused the initial overheating. They are ok, but not really designed to support a length of water hose bouncing up and down

The gasket failure happened exactly where the wrong head bolt had been fitted. Instead of the bolt with a small stud on top to support the dual alternator bracket, a plain bolt had been used - and tightened down hard distorting the bracket, which then bent and came loose

I suspect the tappet fell apart when the pushrod was removed - that's a new one on me! And the broken spring on the fuel pump has probably been there for ages

Also, the fresh water mussels in the Slough arm are magnificent!

Richard

1 minute ago, Peugeot 106 said:

I’m glad you were able to enlist Richard’s help . Are you back up and running?

I didn't have any tappets with me, unfortunately. We were out of stock

July 13

Just now, Tony Brooks said:

I said hose(s), it could be any hose that has coolant in it.

And annoyingly it could be a hose that looks round, but the inside layer of tube collapses. Of course, such hoses are always in the most inconvenient place

Richard

July 13

I was expecting to see something like the cap above. The central disk is the anti vacuum valve:

Richard

July 13

1 hour ago, Peugeot 106 said:

The anti vacuum bit is the bronze coloured disc in the centre which is spring loaded and lifts when a vacuum is applied and allows air back in. Maybe the spring is too strong? Don’t worry Richard I expect it’s your silly season though on the Thames it’s to quote lock keepers “eerily quiet”. I have a theory that no body can find competent mechanics to fix or service their engines! Good Luck

Could you send a picture of the cap side-on?

Richard

July 13

17 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

He was asking about how to connect a two port expansion bottle on that engine. I gave him a generic answer but acknowledged it is not Lister specific. He might be planning to buy a generic expansion vessel.

Oh blimey - I've been keeping up with the other engine problem and skipping this one. I'll have to read back to see what's going on

Thanks Tony

Richard

On 11/07/2023 at 11:58, Tracy D'arth said:

This is what rang the bell with me, if that stat does not close the bypass back to the pump there is insufficient circulation through the skin tank and the engine overheats.

Have you come across the folklore engineering solution of removing the thremostat applied to an Alpha?

First off, no water will come out of the outlet pipes (there you go mate, your pumps knackered)

Secondly, the engine boils really quickly.

Richard

On 11/07/2023 at 21:48, Tony Brooks said:

The fact you say removing the cap from the pressure cap causes it to go glug, glug, glug, suggest to me that there is no working vacuum valve in the pressure cap, so you have to take the cap off to let air in and destroy the depression the cooling coolant created.

THIS^^^

I can't see the anti-vacuum part of that cap. Without one it won't draw coolant back

On our BMC, I always leave an air space in the manifold tank

Richard

July 13

13 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

However, I would prefer someone who really knows these Listers to advise waht Lister say.

Apologies, I haven't been paying attention - what's the question?

Richard

July 10

4 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

If it won't start look elsewhere, bleeding is the first thing to check. The pump has to be bled so that it is full of fuel before bleeding any of the injector pipes.

And to reinforce what everyone else has already said - they are difficult to bleed. Especially if you've not done one of these before

The 1.5 is worse...

Richard

July 10

6 hours ago, SiFi said:

I did wonder about trying to find a replacement spring, do you have one?

If i can find an old pump, yes. I'll have a look

Richard

July 10

23 minutes ago, SiFi said:

I discovered that I need a new pump. The spring has broken in two places. I am hoping this will explain why the engine went down hill so quickly and refuses to restart. The pump is one from Delphi.

Or you need a spring

Richard

On 06/07/2023 at 04:15, Steve56 said:

Personally I would always remove them and squeeze in a vice to ensure all the old oil was out of them.

Then they spring back to full length

It's much easier to follow the other instruction in the manual and wait 30-45 minutes before trying to turn the engine over after fitting them. In practice, unless your in a race pit it takes longer than that to reassemble the engine to the point it will run

Richard

July 7

7 hours ago, Peugeot 106 said:

The only thing holding it will be item 7 sleeve that I called stub pipe.

If you are really lucky, it will have a modern replacement

It's made of black nylon

Richard

July 6

3 hours ago, Steve56 said:

When injection pumps are removed from these engines the shims stay with the block, not the pump. The reason for this is that the pumps are pre shimmed on manufacture, so every pump will be the same.

Shims are available, and the shimming instructions are in the manual

9 hours ago, Peugeot 106 said:

When you take injection pumps keep the shims with each pump. I think it may be wise to leave one in then when you replace them you twist anti-clockwise ( or clockwise I can’t remember) to retain the setting. Maybe worth asking Richard about this if you are ringing him, Don’t worry about taking the head off it’s not so bad and you know about draining the oil down for the hydraulic tappets. Interested to know what Richard thinks about reusing the head bolts and skimming the head? Some people say you can’t skim LPWS and others say they have skimmed hundreds !

We always skim heads

To remove the pumps, push the stop lever across to the stop position, that aligns the lever with the hole in the casting to remove them. Unless you want to reset them which needs a special tool, best to remove them one at at time and put the pump back when you've finished with it. Stop lever to stop, put the pup in and twist anticlockwise before clamping down. It often isn't that easy...

10 hours ago, SiFi said:

Hi Richard, if you can make it to the GUC Slough Arm I would really appreciate your help. I'll email you my email address and phone number.

Email received, I'll get Sue to call you

Richard

July 5

On 04/07/2023 at 19:20, Peugeot 106 said:

and I’m assuming as always RLWP has a massive waiting list

You can always ask! We do lots of work with Alphas, I'd be up for having a look at this one

Richard

July 4

13 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Do they both have hydraulic valve lifters, do you know? That would be the decider for me - not to have the one with hydraulic lifters.

The difference is direct and indirect injection, so different heads and injectors. The rest of the engine is the same

The lifters are the same as in Fords and the Rover V8

Richard

July 2

18 hours ago, SiFi said:

Who or what is RWLP ... i was very careful, following the manual, when i had the pumps out, they had been gummed up. I'm hoping it is not the rack but one of the pumps being stiff.

Is there a way back if it is the rack?

Me!

Richard

June 29

9 hours ago, SiFi said:

OK, I've got to despair stage! Ticker-over for 30mins, with a bit of revving, with a combustion bubbler in the place of the header cap. No colour change, no loss of water. Went to rev engine again and it 'hunted', turned-off, allowed to cool for 15 minutes ...... now it starts, runs for a second and dies.

Abandoning cruise and heading home.

I did not know about that, thanks ... I did wonder what it was.

We are starting to see LPW engines where the spring that joins the rack to the governor breaks - the hook on the end of the spring wears through. Makes the engine sort of uncontrollable

Richard

May 28

On 26/05/2023 at 20:25, john6767 said:

As an observer this year, fingers crossed for next year; is anyone manning the @BCNChallenge Twitter account?

I've stopped using Twitter I'm afraid. It's an Elon Musk thing...

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