RLWP
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Posts posted by RLWP
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16 hours ago, John Brightley said:
Hi Richard. You can see the gasworks building in the background of one of the photos. I live in Kenilworth too, and I know that Philip and Rodney Weaver lived in Queens Close. But they seem to have kept themselves to themselves, as nobody else in the town I've mentioned their name to has ever heard of them.
I'm not sure how active they were in Kenilworth, I knew Rodney through the London North Western Railway society. He was very active in many canal and railway groups.
I only met Philip once when he was quite elderly
Richard
16 hours ago, Derek R. said:Hadn't spotted him before. He's there in another shot, not so certain that's a ladder though. It's a bit of a stretch.
I wouldn't be surprised to find that is one of the Weavers
Richard
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With Phillip living in Kenilworth, this was very much on his patch
I assume the octagonal building was more or less opposite the gasworks?
And thank you for posting these images
NLS link: https://maps.nls.uk/geo/explore/#zoom=17.7&lat=52.28591&lon=-1.59705&layers=168&b=1&o=100
Richard
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The issue here is Eala has an early SR, which needs a starter with the holes on a smaller PCD than the later ones.
I'm not sure if a version of the LRS 555 is available with that pattern, her CAV starter certainly does. That needs a specialist who understands CAV starters
Richard
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12 hours ago, Adrian2023 said:
Hi again everyone.
I am having problems with my Lister JS2 engine overheating.
it’s air cooled and I can barely use it above tickover without causing problems.
it’s a cruiser stern and the engine is underneath. The vents are very high up and almost useless given the soundproofing foam that’s around the engine bay.
My idea to put two inline blowers with ducting pushing clean air from one side to the bottom of the engine (bulkhead) and another sucking warm air out from the other end closest to the exhaust.
has anyone else had this problem and do you think this could/would work and solve the problem.
many thanks in advance
Adrian
What problems are you getting, Adam? I'm guessing the engine stops and you have to wait half an hour before it will start again?
The engine has a massive fan built into the flywheel - much bigger and more powerful than any blower you will put in. If that doesn't cool it, there's a significant problem somewhere. I haven't come across an effective blower set up yet
If you give Sue a ring on 01926 356200, she will help you identify the engine (she does a lot of that) and can give you some idea of what might be going on
Richard
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Sue here, I make Boat Curtains. Primrose bespoke furnishings. email sue[at]primrose-furnishings[dot]co[dot]uk.
In Warwickshire but I can make them from measurements, and I can get samples sent to you to check on the boat.
Email me for links to the companies I have accounts with to see if there is anything you like.
Sue
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On 27/04/2024 at 21:28, JaimeManero said:
I shouldn't worry too much about ordering the meter and measuring the pressure before hand right? If this doesn't solve the issue ill know it has to do with the hydrolic part.
If it doesn't work, it's more likely the reverse band has gone.
You've got forward so the forward clutch is OK.
You've got neutral so the pump is working and pulling the clutch out against the springs.
We have bands in stock
Richard
Richard
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20 hours ago, Mikexx said:
Hi Richard, many thanks for the offer. TBH I was more worried about the position of the skew gear shaft.
That's one of the things the timing tool does
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I have a timing tool, if that helps
Richard
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14 hours ago, magnetman said:
The most likely thing here is that the Big End has gone.
Unlikely
Richard
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5 minutes ago, David Mack said:
And hand start on the crankshaft/camshaft, rather than the raised hand start generally fitted to marine engines.
Could always bump start it I guess...
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8 hours ago, Steve56 said:
Looks like either an SR or LR engine. It's variable speed and is running in an anti clockwise rotation..
It is also hand start, which makes it a challenge for use in a boat
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9 hours ago, R H said:
I think it's an old lister engine. Removing it completely presents it's own issues - balance, stability, prop shaft/stern gland, etc.
Splendid, we specialise in the repair of old Lister engines. If you want an idea of what that might cost, give Sue a ring on Monday. 01926 356200
Richard
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21 hours ago, R H said:
They have an engine but it is non-working (and un-repairable), which is then being classed as having no engine.
Thanks
The obvious solution would be to remove the engine. What engine is it?
Richard
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1 minute ago, Tracy D'arth said:
You may be able to use rods from another engine, cutting and profiling the tappet ends to get the correct length if necessary. Are the Kingfisher ones hollow so the oil travels up them or solid?
That's my thought too. I'm interested to see what the old rods are like
Richard
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Flush it through a few times in alternating directions to make sure it isn't blocked. Also flush the tank out as much as you can
If the boat has a skin tank you don't really need a heat exchanger. I presume the rubber pump rotor is OK?
Richard
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It needs violence to remove it - and be careful. The cap will probably be OK, if you strain the heat exchanger you'll make the tubes leak, and the shell is alloy and probably corroded. Don't be surprised if the flanges come off
Why do you want to dismantle it?
Richard
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Fuel pump door joint. If you are lucky, we have some old 'card' ones about which are far easier to fit
Richard
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11 hours ago, Steve56 said:
Certainly looks that way as the engine shown in the photo and the engine number shown are totally different engines.
Makes a change. Usually I find old Lister masquerading as other old Listers due to parts being swapped around
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That is not a Lister Alpha
Richard
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12 minutes ago, jonathanA said:
interesting comment, just recently I had the rubber cap thing come off on mine, fortunately it was just as I was mooring up. There isn't a lot of 'meat' for the jubilee clip on the cooler itself, only just enough... The same cap developed a small split a couple of years ago and was replaced, but the security of the cap/jubilee clips on the oil cooler is something I will pay more attention to when servicing the engine. I'll also check to see if there is way of taking any of the weight of the hose/fittings off it.
really useful update thanks both, and great to know that such a fantastic level of expertise is available.
It is not unusual to find these engines installed with the skin tank on the port side, which is fine for the water outlet, calorifier and so on.
The water inlet is on the starboard side above the flywheel housing through the oil cooler, which means there has to be a pipe going from one side to the other above the gearbox. Popular choices are lengths of hose or copper pipe fabrications
These are fine, they can put strain on the oil cooler end cap which it isn't really designed for.
Mind you, it isn't hard to attach the feed pipe to the oil cooler with cable ties in the absence of a more engineering solution
Richard
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I was reflecting on this on the way home. The end cap on the oil cooler will be what caused the initial overheating. They are ok, but not really designed to support a length of water hose bouncing up and down
The gasket failure happened exactly where the wrong head bolt had been fitted. Instead of the bolt with a small stud on top to support the dual alternator bracket, a plain bolt had been used - and tightened down hard distorting the bracket, which then bent and came loose
I suspect the tappet fell apart when the pushrod was removed - that's a new one on me! And the broken spring on the fuel pump has probably been there for ages
Also, the fresh water mussels in the Slough arm are magnificent!
Richard
1 minute ago, Peugeot 106 said:I’m glad you were able to enlist Richard’s help . Are you back up and running?
I didn't have any tappets with me, unfortunately. We were out of stock
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Just now, Tony Brooks said:
I said hose(s), it could be any hose that has coolant in it.
And annoyingly it could be a hose that looks round, but the inside layer of tube collapses. Of course, such hoses are always in the most inconvenient place
Richard
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I was expecting to see something like the cap above. The central disk is the anti vacuum valve:
Richard
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1 hour ago, Peugeot 106 said:
The anti vacuum bit is the bronze coloured disc in the centre which is spring loaded and lifts when a vacuum is applied and allows air back in. Maybe the spring is too strong? Don’t worry Richard I expect it’s your silly season though on the Thames it’s to quote lock keepers “eerily quiet”. I have a theory that no body can find competent mechanics to fix or service their engines! Good Luck
Could you send a picture of the cap side-on?
Richard
Need help with my gearbox.
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
I don't, unfortunately
Richard