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Posts posted by RLWP

  1. 12 hours ago, Adrian2023 said:

    Hi again everyone. 

    I am having problems with my Lister JS2 engine overheating. 

    it’s air cooled and I can barely use it above tickover without causing problems. 

    it’s a cruiser stern and the engine is underneath. The vents are very high up and almost useless given the soundproofing foam that’s around the engine bay. 

    My idea to put two inline blowers with ducting pushing clean air from one side to the bottom of the engine (bulkhead) and another sucking warm air out from the other end closest to the exhaust. 

    has anyone else had this problem and do you think this could/would work and solve the problem. 

    many thanks in advance 




    What problems are you getting, Adam? I'm guessing the engine stops and you have to wait half an hour before it will start again?


    The engine has a massive fan built into the flywheel - much bigger and more powerful than any blower you will put in. If that doesn't cool it, there's a significant problem somewhere. I haven't come across an effective blower set up yet


    If you give Sue a ring on 01926 356200, she will help you identify the engine (she does a lot of that) and can give you some idea of what might be going on





    • Greenie 4
  2. Sue here, I make Boat Curtains. Primrose bespoke furnishings. email sue[at]primrose-furnishings[dot]co[dot]uk.

    In Warwickshire but I can make them from measurements, and I can get samples sent to you to check on the boat.

    Email me for links to the companies I have accounts with to see if there is anything you like.



  3. On 27/04/2024 at 21:28, JaimeManero said:



    I shouldn't worry too much about ordering the meter and measuring the pressure before hand right? If this doesn't solve the issue ill know it has to do with the hydrolic part. 


    If it doesn't work, it's more likely the reverse band has gone.


    You've got forward so the forward clutch is OK.

    You've got neutral so the pump is working and pulling the clutch out against the springs. 


    We have bands in stock





  4. 1 minute ago, Tracy D'arth said:

    You may be able to use rods from another engine, cutting and profiling the tappet ends to get the correct length if necessary.  Are the Kingfisher ones hollow so the oil travels up them or solid?


    That's my thought too. I'm interested to see what the old rods are like



  5. Flush it through a few times in alternating directions to make sure it isn't blocked. Also flush the tank out as much as you can


    If the boat has a skin tank you don't really need a heat exchanger.  I presume the rubber pump rotor is OK?





  6. It needs violence to remove it - and be careful. The cap will probably be OK, if you strain the heat exchanger you'll make the tubes leak, and the shell is alloy and probably corroded. Don't be surprised if the flanges come off


    Why do you want to dismantle it?



  7. 12 minutes ago, jonathanA said:

    interesting comment, just recently I had the rubber cap thing come off on mine, fortunately it was just as I was mooring up.  There isn't a lot of 'meat' for the jubilee clip on  the cooler itself, only just enough...  The same cap developed a small split a couple of years ago and was replaced, but the security of the cap/jubilee clips on the oil cooler is something I will pay more attention to when servicing the engine.   I'll also check to see if there is way of taking any of the weight of the hose/fittings off it. 


    really useful update thanks both, and great to know that such a fantastic level of expertise is available. 


    It is not unusual to find these engines installed with the skin tank on the port side, which is fine for the water outlet, calorifier and so on.


    The water inlet is on the starboard side above the flywheel housing through the oil cooler, which means there has to be a pipe going from one side to the other above the gearbox. Popular choices are lengths of hose or copper pipe fabrications


    These are fine, they can put strain on the oil cooler end cap which it isn't really designed for.


    Mind you, it isn't hard to attach the feed pipe to the oil cooler with cable ties in the absence of a more engineering solution



  8. I was reflecting on this on the way home. The end cap on the oil cooler will be what caused the initial overheating. They are ok, but not really designed to support a length of water hose bouncing up and down


    The gasket failure happened exactly where the wrong head bolt had been fitted. Instead of the bolt with a small stud on top to support the dual alternator bracket, a plain bolt had been used - and tightened down hard distorting the bracket, which then bent and came loose


    I suspect the tappet fell apart when the pushrod was removed - that's a new one on me! And the broken spring on the fuel pump has probably been there for ages


    Also, the fresh water mussels in the Slough arm are magnificent!



    1 minute ago, Peugeot 106 said:

    I’m glad you were able to enlist Richard’s help . Are you back up and running?


    I didn't have any tappets with me, unfortunately. We were out of stock

  9. 1 hour ago, Peugeot 106 said:

    The anti vacuum bit is the bronze coloured disc in the centre which is spring loaded and lifts when a vacuum is applied and allows air back in.  Maybe the spring is too strong? Don’t worry Richard I expect it’s your silly season though on the Thames it’s to quote lock keepers “eerily quiet”. I have a theory that no body can find competent mechanics to fix or service their engines! Good Luck


    Could you send a picture of the cap side-on?



  10. 17 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:


    He was asking about how to connect a two port expansion bottle on that engine. I gave him a generic answer but acknowledged it is not Lister specific. He might be planning to buy a generic expansion vessel.


    Oh blimey - I've been keeping up with the other engine problem and skipping this one. I'll have to read back to see what's going on

    Thanks Tony



    On 11/07/2023 at 11:58, Tracy D'arth said:

    This is what rang the bell with me, if that stat does not close the bypass back to the pump  there is insufficient circulation through the skin tank and the engine overheats.


    Have you come across the folklore engineering solution of removing the thremostat applied to an Alpha?


    First off, no water will come out of the outlet pipes (there you go mate, your pumps knackered)


    Secondly, the engine boils really quickly.



    On 11/07/2023 at 21:48, Tony Brooks said:

    The fact you say removing the cap from the pressure cap causes it to go glug, glug, glug, suggest to me that there is no working vacuum valve in the pressure cap, so you have to take the cap off to let air in and destroy the depression the cooling coolant created.






    I can't see the anti-vacuum part of that cap. Without one it won't draw coolant back

    On our BMC, I always leave an air space in the manifold tank



  11. 4 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:


    If it won't start look elsewhere, bleeding is the first thing to check. The pump has to be bled so that it is full of fuel before bleeding any of the injector pipes.



    And to reinforce what everyone else has already said - they are difficult to bleed. Especially if you've not done one of these before


    The 1.5 is worse...



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