stuart
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Posts posted by stuart
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Hello, its been a very long time since I posted anything on the forum, however, if like me you have an Isuzu engine where the hour counter built into the tachometer gauge (which is made by a company called Siemens VDO) - and the display has gone blank then I've got a fix!
These tachometers are rebadged alot, and seem to be similar on Vetus, Volvo Penta and several other brands.
Inside the hour counter it will be counting perfectly well, its just the LCD display thats gone. It uses a process known as "COG" - chip on glass, and then a tiny ribbon cable to connect to it - its the ribbon cable on the glass that breaks over time.
I've managed to reverse engineer the LCD signals, so I can get a display working again, its not quite finished yet but wondered if anyone else would be interested in it?
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Yes Vactan can be sprayed when mixed with a little water - think it needs a high pressure sprayer though.
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Has anyone ever tried installing a super capacitor alongside their battery bank?
http://www.bimblesolar.com/batteries/supercapacitors/supercap12v
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Take a look at this...
Burley Springdale
http://www.burley.co.uk/wood_burnerdetail.php?cid=4&wid=52
Height - 495 mm
Width - 370 mm Depth - 296 mmI've the 5kw in my house and very happy with it. Its a wood burner, but you can add in a multifuel grate.
Very efficient, and the vortex/swirling motion is very cool to watch!
Check out the video of the owner of the company driving a tank over the stove !!
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Perhaps some lights like these would work?
or these have symbols on them as well..
Might need some waterproof ones though !
The stop button broke on my panel, so I replaced with a horn push button which filled the gap in the panel okay.
Something like this...
I've also got an Isuzu panel - does your hour counter still work?
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Another vote for the Smartgauge - simple and does the job.
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Somethings I recommend:
1. It will take at least twice what you think it will!
2. If you can build components in the workshop/garage at home do so, its much warmer and easier on dryland.
3. Get 240v electric as soon as you can
4. Gas and electric installs are relavitely simple on a boat - don't rule out doing them yourself just yet!
5. Paint as soon as you can - preferably before it goes in the water
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I personally would have used paving slabs to pack up the floor - if the stoves not approved, I wouldnt want to risk it. Aquapanel won't burn - but it still transfers heat to the other side, so don't get wood too close.
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Glad you found the root cause Moley!
You'll be back on (rather than in) the water soon.
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I used gripfil and most has failed
The glue has set into a crumbly power and the wood simply popped off the steel.
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What is the voltage drop at 14.4V 175A on a metre of 40mm2 cable?
About 0.1 volt ?
DeanS : If you contact the cable supplier and tell them what you want, they may crimp it for you (small cost) - especially important at larger cable sizes as without proper tool you're not going to do it properly.
The last thing you want is a loose cable with 175A DC floating around in the engine bay.
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Do Midland Chandlers still have their 20% sale days? If so when's the next one?
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The owner should have a bunch of receipts for things they have done on the boat - surveys, blacking, repairs etc. Do they have any of this?
Ideally they will also have a receipt from the builder or the previous owner - if a previous owner, is there any contact info you could confirm with them?
You could look at using a solicitor to form an escrow agreement, where they hold your money in trust and release it when you are happy - but I suspect the seller won't be happy with any delay to them getting their money.
Buying a second hand boat is similar to a 2nd hand car - buyer beware at all times!
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Todays solar output is much higher than yesterdays !
I only generated 0.8kWh output yesterday, but already 6.0kWh today - 7.5 times more than yesterday.
Its a house install though, 3360W of panels - peak today of 2200W @ 240VAC.
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Possibly in the market for a new cheap stove
Sunrain Cast Iron Multi Log Wood Burner 4 kw Stove JA013s
http://www.clarkebay.co.uk/new-sunrain-cast-iron-multi-log-wood-burner-4-kw-stove-ja013s-557-p.asp
£158 + VAT
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Yes, but...
You will first of all find that the fixings holding the top to the sides, and the sides to the base are rusted solid. They will then either shear when you undo them, or round off the heads. I drilled the top ones out on the stove I investigated as the rear flange on the top was coming adrift. Next, you'll find that the back is very thin, and what you thought was one piece is actually two or three. In addition, you will find some other part will also have cracked.
At this point, you'll price up all the parts you actually need, including the broken firebricks and eroded grate, make a sharp intake of breath, then decide to fit a Villager Puffin
Nice stoves those puffins
If you do mend your cast iron stove, please, please, please make sure that the flue can expand by going up through the chimney collar. If you don't, it will push down on the stove top and crack it
Richard
p.s. I really like those Villager Puffins
The stove is already stripped back to bare panels so I've already gone through the pain of removing all the bolts - this started out as a simple rust clean up and repaint !!
Only 1 bolt that has sheared off, so need to drill that out, should be okay, but I agree, might just be simpler to put in a new stove!
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I know it does not help you, but there are 4 scrap Morso Squirrels at Riversdale....the problem this in in Ireland and I wont be going over again untill Easter!
I am pretty sure one has a good back plate. I dont think Graham can be ar$ed to split them down for spares, so I will look into stripping, shotblasting the bits and getting them back to Blighty.
Let me know how you get on with those, might take me that long to refurb the stove!
The stove is currently in bits all stripped down to individual panels, so far I've only found a crack on the back plate - its the back boiler model by the way, with 2 holes in it.
I think I've had a long term issue with water in the bottom of the stove and this has corroded one corner of the stove as this seems to have all the issues and the most rust.
The crack is quite visible (see day light through it!), so doubt any repair would work - is it possible to get these welded?
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In the process of cleaning up and refurbishing my morso stove, and just noticed the back plate has a hair line crack along the corner where the back curves around.
What are my options? Can this be welded/repaired?
Looks like a new back plate is around £120 - at least they are available I suppose, just didn't want to spend that sort of cash!
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Reminds me of this YouTube vid..
If you do have a dud battery pack, you can buy replacements for the internal cells - have a google for it.
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I don't have any shore power, so simple ensure all the water is drained down and turned off as per the original post.
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Its all part of a scheme to link Dudley Zoo, the BC Museum and the DCT trip boats to create a single large visitor attraction.
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Artist impression of the new visitor centre DCT want to build.
Two thing's that bother me:
1. Where am I going to moor my boat in the future?
2. If the bridge in the foreground is fixed, that means that there is no longer any passage for private boats through the Dudley tunnel!
http://www.dudleycanaltrust.org.uk/the-portal/
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Where can I a get some stove lining fire bricks in that price range then?
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I use www.waterexplorer.co.uk and the GPS USB device it recommends from Amazon. The mapping software us excellent. It records journey time, average speed, number of locks and bridges and stores the data so you can get a running total per year and per month and a grand total. The GPS is only 20 quid from Amazon. You will need it to be connected to a laptop but I have used it now for almost 2 years without problems.
Glad you like it!
Stu.
(owner and creator of Water Explorer)
Width - 370 mm 
Isuzu / Volvo Penta / VDO Tachometer Gauge - hour counter not working - fixed!
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Its taken me ages to workout how the LCD is used by these devices, but I'm happy that I've got it working!
There are a couple of articles on the internet where people have cut out and replaced the hour counter LCD with a brand new hour counter - but you then lose the original number and also can't get to the configuration menu on the display (bet most people don't even know that exists!)
My plan is to remove the existing LCD + bin it, then try and find something thats going to fit into the space left. I've written a tiny program to run and drive a new LCD screen (or similar) which can then be glued inside the existing case.
I'm not spending a couple of hundred quid on a new VDO unit !!