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Posts posted by stuart
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I could never find a data sheet for this exact controller - I found some similar Philips ones (can't remember the models)
The repeating data in EEPROM is normally to provide wear levelling of the chip so the EEPROM isn't burn't out in a single address - the data is scattered across the chip.
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No, I don't own a bus pirate device, I simply hooked up the Arduino and listened to the i2c signals sent to the display and reversed from there!
It did take me weeks to understand it though!
The Arduino code should be very portable to PIC devices (its in pure C) you just need to receive the i2c signals, and then react accordingly.
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After 10 years of boat ownership I only realized last year that you needed to put silicone grease in the unit !!
Good to know the rubber seals can be replaced in the water, although mine isn't bad at all.
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Might be worth checking that the internals look similar to the photos in the thread - theres a couple of models about and not all the same.
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The VDO tacho stores the engine hours inside an EEPROM - labelled pcf8582c. A dump of this chip looks like this...
0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0xFF,0x31
,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00
,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00
,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00
,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00
,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00
,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x05,0xF2,0x05,0xF2,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00
,0x00,0x00,0x01,0x90,0x01,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x0F,0xA0,0x05,0x17,0x29,0x28,0x0A,0x00
,0xFF,0x00,0xFF,0x00,0x05,0x17,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x10,0x00
,0x65,0x02,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00
,0xB2,0x30,0x31,0x32,0x30,0x00,0x33,0x41,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00
,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00
,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00
,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00
,0x00,0xFF,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00
,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x00,0xC2,0x00,0x00,0x00,0x08,0xA9
My engine hours areF2 05 F2 = 0x05F205F2 = 1522 hours
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Used Bimble, good quick service and great prices.
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I've got something similar to these...
You can remove the metal surround and then inset them into the ceiling.
Fitted with these LED G4 lights...
Fitting depth is about 15-20mm. -
Hi Matilda, glad you got it working!
Since building this, I'm finding that the OLED screen is difficult to read in direct sunlight, so I may replace with an old fashioned LED figure of 8 display - but don't let that put you off!
As you are using DenMike's code, I'm not 100% on the alignment of the the logo, however I suspect its this line...
display.drawBitmap(24, 0, Logo);Try changing the 0 to another value and see if the alignment moves. -
If you can get 4G signal I think that would be far more useful to you instead of a fixed line.
Do you actually want a land line for voice or just data?
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Matilda - the source code is freely available on git hub using the link below
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Not Worcester, but upton on severn is worth a mooring, nice pubs and a few shops.
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Good idea, they have a lip on the top of them to keep them central so might have to get something on a lathe to match!
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Strewth!
Just got a reply from Samantha Bird (samantha.bird@arleigh.co.uk) who are actually from Midland Chandlers - who must have got my email forwarded to them when I emailed the above address !!
4 rubber mounting blocks for a Python P30-R - they want £80 + £6 postage + VAT = £103.20
For 4 bits of rubber - the whole unit cost about £300 !
Sod it, I'll wait for it to fail and replace with a centaflex.
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I've got a python drive which is working fine however the rubber mounting blocks are starting to split with age (about 8 years old).
Any idea if there is still a UK retailer? Google is failing me!
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Don't forget you don't need to put solar on a boat roof, you may be able to hang one on the side of the boat?
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Thats a different idea!
Although given the relatively low price second hand, its just as easy to put in a perm. install.
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The Thermotop V in automotive use is usually CAN controlled off the vehicle. As NMEA says it can also be controlled via W bus. They're fitted to a lot of current production vehicles.
If you've got an electronics background:-
W bus is an ISO9141 type bus and there's the C source code for a driver on source forge "Wbus driver". The physical layer can be implemented using an open collector transistor with a 1K2 1/2W pull up. It's a challenge response type protocol however if you code it carefully you can ignore the reponse and just send the messages. These need to be sent every 10 second to stop it timing out and shutting down. The commands are very simple Command, Data, Checksum. The only important ones are run (with a time value) and shutdown - though stopping sending the message has the same effect. The whole thing can be coded in Basic on a picaxe if you're careful.
Yes, I'm aware of the WBus protocol - I've built an interface for it...
https://github.com/stuartpittaway/WebastoWBUSInterface
You do need to be careful to avoid getting the potential for 12v into a 3.3v or 5v controller though. Only using a simple circuit as described above I would frequently get timeout errors with the ThermoTest software - the circuit below never has this problem.
Being a Webasto dealer I have shied off saying something but I suppose I should say it really, whilst it is possible to get them operating I really wouldn't bother, they have been reduced in weight and size due to ever increasing demand from the automotive OEM market and I really don't feel they are up to the job of heating a boat for extended periods.
I agree with the notion that they are not suitable for long term use, I'm certainly tempted, purely because when fitted to cars, they are expected to last and run for many years without servicing, and additionally because they are so cheap, even if I got 2-3 years out of one, for £140 I can almost treat it as a disposable item.
I wouldn't use one as my only source of heating for live aboard usage, but for the chilly spring/autumn evening I quite like the idea.
Its quite simple (for me!) to knock together a microcontroller and get it working. I've got a ThermoTop V sitting on a bench in front of me - about 2 year old, Land Rover unit.
Its been operating in supplemental heating mode (300hrs), but works fine in parking mode as well.
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Is this SIM any use?
PCWorld, 1GB per month, for £24.99 (per year) - just over £2 per month!
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Actually, answered my own question, its NOT compatible according to page 77 of this...
You would need car controller part number "MultiController Car 9029783A"
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Does the Smart Control unit listed above WEBASTO HEATER SMARTCONTROL 9030026A actually operate the VEVO or V model?
The Heater compatibility image seems to contradict itself, the little bullet points are not next to the WBus controlled units.
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Thank you all, good to know. We think we have enough dosh and roof space for 2 100W panels, fingers crossed anyway, the only clutter up there is a chilli plant hah.
Biggest doubt at the minute re: panels is whether to buy a kit or individual parts.
If anyone has time, anyone mind giving a nod about these?
http://www.hollybrookps.co.uk/pv_modules/100w-solar-panel-a-rated-monocrystalline.html
If buying the kit separately, which of these panels?http://www.hollybrookps.co.uk/canalboat-narrowboat-solar-kits/200w-canal-boat-solar-kit/action/null/Or these kits?Muchas gracias for all your help so farNothing wrong with what they are selling, but Bimble are better value for money. You will also want a MPPT charger, not the PWM one (these are cheaper and less performant)
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I'd recommend Bimble Solar, they often have good deals on second hand panels - which are much cheaper than you expect.
Two of these panels would give you 240W, plus an 20Amp MPPT charger like this (http://www.bimblesolar.com/offgrid/mppt/Tracer2215BN)
http://www.bimblesolar.com/solar/individual/kyocera120w
and apart from cable, would have a solar charging solution for £200.
Isuzu / Volvo Penta / VDO Tachometer Gauge - hour counter not working - fixed!
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
I dug through some old email I had, here are several links which may be useful - particularly the NXP links below to the various chips.