NEBUCHADNEZZAR
-
Posts
28 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Store
Posts posted by NEBUCHADNEZZAR
-
-
3 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Suzuki engines are the devils spawn when it come to outboards, always have been and always will be. Going back quite a few years an outboard dealer told me he wouldn't have one given to him. Thay have always been 'too technical' and reliant on electronics and they just not not operate well in a boating environment.
My No2 Son bought a boat with an 8hp Suzuki, it never ran 'right' phoned all over the UK to try and find someone to service it - eventually found someone, sent it off to be serviced, came back and it was worse that it went. It has sat in my shed now for (maybe) 5 years.
Once you get it sorted out It would be a good idea to get it on Ebay and buy a reliable one such as a Honda or a Yamaha, even an old Evinrude or Johnson.
The outboard came with the boat, wouldn't have been my choice. But I'm reluctant to spend on a replacement when the future is an electric drive when finances allow.
-
I think I've solved it!!!
Just looking again at the photo, I've realised that the metal clip that the pointer slides over is 90 deg the wrong way so it catches when you change from fwd to rev. Might not be that simple but I'll try it.
-
10 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Please read carefully, I did not say they were interchangeable, I said they MIGHT be, so needs a bit of research. If a second-hand module for a similarly engined bike was available at a good price I think it might be worth a punt as long as you accept there is no guarantee it will work.
I understand, I'll have a look through the parts catalogues. I suspect the part numbers may be the same. I do't know a great deal about these engines, but why would you suspect an ignition module if the engine cuts out when hot ?. Is that the most likely cause ?. Thanks
-
12 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Worse cutting out hot or cold. If hot I would suspect the ignition module but not particularly familiar with post 1990 outboards.
You might find an ignition module from a Suzuki motorbike might job the job for inland use and be cheaper than a marine one. I read this works for Hondas. Also make sure the ignition module has a good earth.
That sounds like a plan.The engine starts and runs fine and cuts out intermittently after about an hour of use. Cuts out quite often when manovering fwd and rev, so that burnt out little lockout switch maybe the cause.
I didn't realise ignition modules were interchangeable, that maybe the next issue. Thanks.
-
That makes sense. Thanks. I think it's knackered and disconnected. The engine will start in gear.
I've taken the carbs off for a good clean, engine keeps cutting out randomly for no obvious reason so just trying to get to the bottom of it. Appreciate the help.
-
Hi, can anyone help identify this part. The engine is a Suzuki DT50 outboard. Any help would be appreciated.
-
That sounds rather specific. Have you had trouble before?
-
Thanks for the information. I have the drive unit attached to the prop, all the hoses are in good condition, there's a hydraulic tank, prv but no pump or engine. Was curious to see if it was possible to try a different way, but maybe it's beyond practical, without spending lots. But thanks.
-
6 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:
@IanD thinks that's enough for still water if I remember correctly, but you'd really not want to be on a river with it.
A 10kVA genny charging a big battery bank should power a larger electric drive for a while though.
I've seen a 60ft narrowboat with a 4.5KW electric motor. Wouldn't say it was tremendous, but it did work.
-
Hi, yes it's the same boat. The outboard is fine (surprisingly) steers better than most in reverse. The outboard is only a short term solution because that's how the boat came. Long term, when finances allow, I want an electric drive.
The reason for all the questions is I'm just looking to utilise what I have already before I spend money. (I am Scottish after all)
-
16 minutes ago, Mike Adams said:
Yes it is possible but likely to be extremely expensive and inefficient. You have a Parker fixed displacement pump on the propshaft so the only alternative to reinstating a diesel engine and Parker pump might be to find a hydraulic power pack consisting of an engine and pump if you could find one of the right size. Looking at the arrangement of the boat I would consider working out if the original hydraulic system is usable(clean and not at all rusty). Almost any engine diesel or petrol/gas could drive the pump and be located anywhere. Remember these hydraulic components are very very expensive compared to a normal drive.
It doesn't look like a normal engine/gearbox would fit but maybe you could use a v drive gearbox?
Thanks for the information. where would I find more info on parker. It's not a name I recognise. Thanks
-
Thanks for the reply, it is designed to be enclosed as it has it's own enclosure with forced air intake and exhaust. It does have an auto shut down in the event of CO2 build up or air intake failure. Exhaust is submerged. And it is remote control for start up and shut down.
I wouldn't take the chance with anything else.
-
1
-
-
It's a 10KVA genny and it would be going into the engine space under the rear deck (where the original engine and pump would have been). The reason for asking is these are the things I have and I'm trying to see if there is a way I can use them.
-
2 minutes ago, BEngo said:
Normally, on an engine powered set up, the pump is matched to the motor and the speed controlled by varying the engine speed. Fixing engine speed and varying the motor speed by swashplate pump, or variable bleed off is possible but horrendously inefficient.
If you have a variable speed electric motor you can replicate an engine set up. Assuming you have a single phase genny, you will need a single to 3 phase variable speed drive inverter and a delta wound 3 phase motor designed for a wide speed range. It will probably have to be fan cooled. Single phase motors are available but only in fairly small sizes and they do not much like speed variations.That is the broad brush treatment. It really will need to be designed in detail by an expert because there are significant safety issues to deal with.
N
Might just wait until I have the electric motor first. Thanks anyway.
-
Thanks Brian, the end goal is an electric drive motor on the prop (because that's about all that would fit under the floor), but i was just wondering if there was a way to use what i have at the moment.
-
Just trying to get some general info if anyone knows the answer. This may seem like a daft question to some, but I'm trying to find out if it is possible to use an electric hydraulic pump to power a hydraulic drive on a prop ? The reason for asking is the existing system on my boat was a hydraulic drive. But all that is left is the drive unit at the end of the prop, there is no pump and no engine but I do have a powerful generator hence the question.
-
10 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
If you do need parts my Suzuki list shows DT50s were built from 1977 > 1984 and you will need to be able to quote the year of manufacture.
Last year of production was 1984
Serial Number Year code
1977 C
1978 D
1979 F
1980 G
1981 J
1982 VZ
1983 QD
1984 VEThe correct prop should be 11.5" diameter x 14" pitch which I would say is quite a bit smaller than used on an Inboard engine on a widebeam.
Thanks for the information
-
Ha ha you've got a good eye for detail
-
1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:
Trying to scale from the photo I have great difficulty in believing that is a 50hp, may be 10 to 20. A 50hp inboard would have a very much larger prop diameter wise, say something like 10 to 12" diameter on a 1:1 reduction ratio. I know it could be a two stroke so about 1/3 smaller than a fours stroke but it still looks small for that. You can get high HP from either high torque at low revs or high revs @ low torque. For that sort of boat torque is what you need, not revs.
Hi, yeah it's definitely 50hp. It looks a little out of scale as the boat is 12ft wide
-
1 minute ago, booke23 said:
Ah phew!......in that case looking at that setup I imagine it would have been configured so the outboard did the steering. The boat rudder looks quite small so this would make sense.
Thanks.
With the boat weight and the shallow V hull, I pulled it along the towpath with relative ease (only a few hundred meters though).
-
Just now, booke23 said:
It looks like that Outboard is 5hp. It's a tad small.....I was assuming you had 20hp or so. Unless you just want to move the boat half a mile or so I'd tend to agree with @Alan de Enfield
Do you know what your boat weighs?The outboard is a DT50 (50hp) boat weight is currently 15.5T
-
Hi, waiting is not really an option, as that would put it out of use for at least 18months.
The outboard as fitted was working, as prior to my ownership, this was being used up and down the waterways of London. However, with things all disconnected I'm trying to work out what configuration they used. Thanks
-
A picture may help.
-
1 minute ago, booke23 said:
I'd fix the rudder amidships and steer the outboard.
Thanks for that. May I ask why one over the other ?
Identifying parts
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
No worries. I wouldn't hold anyone to advice given freely on the internet, unless the same thing was said by many sources ( good chance it's the right answer then), just looking for anyone input, even if it's not the right answer, it might spark an idea in me or someone else. Either way I'm always grateful for any knowledge.