NEBUCHADNEZZAR
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Posts posted by NEBUCHADNEZZAR
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Travelled 30 miles (winter time) during that 3 months. Suspiciously never clocked the boat elsewhere in that time.
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At first they said i was wrong, until I said I keep a record and can prove where I was. They suddenly said it was fine and not to worry.
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I keep a record in Google maps. It's free and easy to do. Also a good option as last year CRT incorrectly said I was moored at the same place (waterpoint) for 3 months, when actually I visited once, filled up, cruised for 3 months then returned and filled up again. Always helps to have your own log.
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On 10/03/2025 at 20:59, Andy Br said:
Hello,
I am booked to take my boat up out of Liverpool Marina and onto the Leeds Liverpool canal next week.
I have never done it before so just a quick question to anyone who has done it.
I note that the start time is 08.00-09.30 at Mann Island. I intend to be there at 08.00.
Does anyone know of there is enough time to get to Bridge 9 on the LL, Handcocks Swing Bridge, before 14.00? I note that the swing bridge is closed between 14.00 and 18.00 so would really like to get through that before losing 4 hours. I am not sure how much time is spent locking through and whether there is any extra delays.
Many thanks,
Andy
I think you'll be fine. Also this bridge has seen several repairs and last time I went through (Feb) the were no restrictions on times. We went through at 3pm
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Hi, there is always heat loss because the thickness of the walls and roof is limited. However I find it comfortable enough. After heating it will retain that for most of the night and likewise during the summer it stays cooler for a long time inside. Installation of my double glazing made the biggest difference.
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I can only speak from experience, when I built my boat 4 yrs ago I used 2 types on insulation in thr walls and ceiling. I first sprayed expanding foam to a depth of around 2 inches then lined with rock wool to a thickness of 3 inches. In 4 years I've never had a problem with either condensation or heat loss.
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I agree, non powered hand tools are best, and usually quicker by the time you've unpacked and plugged in or pull started your trimmer.
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Best addition to my boat "tools". Pruning set bought at home and bargain. Makes more mooring opportunities available to you.
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6 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Look, I told you I have little experience on post 1990 outboards, but I have heard a number of reports across a range of makers and models of ignition modules failing when they get hot. I have also see and heard about ignition module mountings working loose or getting corroded/dirty causing similar problems. I can't give you the most likely cause because I do not have enough experience. I am sure the automotive and marine part numbers will be different.
No worries. I wouldn't hold anyone to advice given freely on the internet, unless the same thing was said by many sources ( good chance it's the right answer then), just looking for anyone input, even if it's not the right answer, it might spark an idea in me or someone else. Either way I'm always grateful for any knowledge.
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3 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Suzuki engines are the devils spawn when it come to outboards, always have been and always will be. Going back quite a few years an outboard dealer told me he wouldn't have one given to him. Thay have always been 'too technical' and reliant on electronics and they just not not operate well in a boating environment.
My No2 Son bought a boat with an 8hp Suzuki, it never ran 'right' phoned all over the UK to try and find someone to service it - eventually found someone, sent it off to be serviced, came back and it was worse that it went. It has sat in my shed now for (maybe) 5 years.
Once you get it sorted out It would be a good idea to get it on Ebay and buy a reliable one such as a Honda or a Yamaha, even an old Evinrude or Johnson.
The outboard came with the boat, wouldn't have been my choice. But I'm reluctant to spend on a replacement when the future is an electric drive when finances allow.
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I think I've solved it!!!
Just looking again at the photo, I've realised that the metal clip that the pointer slides over is 90 deg the wrong way so it catches when you change from fwd to rev. Might not be that simple but I'll try it.
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10 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Please read carefully, I did not say they were interchangeable, I said they MIGHT be, so needs a bit of research. If a second-hand module for a similarly engined bike was available at a good price I think it might be worth a punt as long as you accept there is no guarantee it will work.
I understand, I'll have a look through the parts catalogues. I suspect the part numbers may be the same. I do't know a great deal about these engines, but why would you suspect an ignition module if the engine cuts out when hot ?. Is that the most likely cause ?. Thanks
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12 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Worse cutting out hot or cold. If hot I would suspect the ignition module but not particularly familiar with post 1990 outboards.
You might find an ignition module from a Suzuki motorbike might job the job for inland use and be cheaper than a marine one. I read this works for Hondas. Also make sure the ignition module has a good earth.
That sounds like a plan.The engine starts and runs fine and cuts out intermittently after about an hour of use. Cuts out quite often when manovering fwd and rev, so that burnt out little lockout switch maybe the cause.
I didn't realise ignition modules were interchangeable, that maybe the next issue. Thanks.
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That makes sense. Thanks. I think it's knackered and disconnected. The engine will start in gear.
I've taken the carbs off for a good clean, engine keeps cutting out randomly for no obvious reason so just trying to get to the bottom of it. Appreciate the help.
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Hi, can anyone help identify this part. The engine is a Suzuki DT50 outboard. Any help would be appreciated.
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That sounds rather specific. Have you had trouble before?
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Thanks for the information. I have the drive unit attached to the prop, all the hoses are in good condition, there's a hydraulic tank, prv but no pump or engine. Was curious to see if it was possible to try a different way, but maybe it's beyond practical, without spending lots. But thanks.
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6 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:
@IanD thinks that's enough for still water if I remember correctly, but you'd really not want to be on a river with it.
A 10kVA genny charging a big battery bank should power a larger electric drive for a while though.
I've seen a 60ft narrowboat with a 4.5KW electric motor. Wouldn't say it was tremendous, but it did work.
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Hi, yes it's the same boat. The outboard is fine (surprisingly) steers better than most in reverse. The outboard is only a short term solution because that's how the boat came. Long term, when finances allow, I want an electric drive.
The reason for all the questions is I'm just looking to utilise what I have already before I spend money. (I am Scottish after all)
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16 minutes ago, Mike Adams said:
Yes it is possible but likely to be extremely expensive and inefficient. You have a Parker fixed displacement pump on the propshaft so the only alternative to reinstating a diesel engine and Parker pump might be to find a hydraulic power pack consisting of an engine and pump if you could find one of the right size. Looking at the arrangement of the boat I would consider working out if the original hydraulic system is usable(clean and not at all rusty). Almost any engine diesel or petrol/gas could drive the pump and be located anywhere. Remember these hydraulic components are very very expensive compared to a normal drive.
It doesn't look like a normal engine/gearbox would fit but maybe you could use a v drive gearbox?
Thanks for the information. where would I find more info on parker. It's not a name I recognise. Thanks
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Thanks for the reply, it is designed to be enclosed as it has it's own enclosure with forced air intake and exhaust. It does have an auto shut down in the event of CO2 build up or air intake failure. Exhaust is submerged. And it is remote control for start up and shut down.
I wouldn't take the chance with anything else.
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It's a 10KVA genny and it would be going into the engine space under the rear deck (where the original engine and pump would have been). The reason for asking is these are the things I have and I'm trying to see if there is a way I can use them.
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2 minutes ago, BEngo said:
Normally, on an engine powered set up, the pump is matched to the motor and the speed controlled by varying the engine speed. Fixing engine speed and varying the motor speed by swashplate pump, or variable bleed off is possible but horrendously inefficient.
If you have a variable speed electric motor you can replicate an engine set up. Assuming you have a single phase genny, you will need a single to 3 phase variable speed drive inverter and a delta wound 3 phase motor designed for a wide speed range. It will probably have to be fan cooled. Single phase motors are available but only in fairly small sizes and they do not much like speed variations.That is the broad brush treatment. It really will need to be designed in detail by an expert because there are significant safety issues to deal with.
N
Might just wait until I have the electric motor first. Thanks anyway.
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Thanks Brian, the end goal is an electric drive motor on the prop (because that's about all that would fit under the floor), but i was just wondering if there was a way to use what i have at the moment.
maintain a cruising log
in General Boating
Posted
Don't know. The issue I had was, I was sighted in the same place 3 months apart, which is correct. But they had no sightings in between and just assumed I was there the whole time.