Katie

Yeah fair point probably easier!

It appears my fresh water pump has a tiny leak from around the pumphead. Is it just a case of replacing a seal? I’m struggling to find any for the Jabsco par max 2.9 specifically. Would any others fit perhaps?

Yes I’ve had friends put screenwash on their coolant in the past so didn’t want to be THAT person! Hahaha well I have now successfully done my first oil and filter change thanks for the help folks! And so far no leaks so that’s another notch on my boater belt 😀 …. just a shame I ordered the wrong air filter!

Thanks! Thought so just wanted to be 100% right before I go pouring stuff in there! Haha

Attempting to change oil and filter on my BMC 1.5 and confident about that part. Stupidly I’m unsure of where to top up the new oil!? Would it be the green cap on the left? If not, I have no idea where else but don’t want to get something so simple wrong!

Thanks for this my pump was professionally fitted last year but at the moment I leave it running the entire time my stove is lit to be safe. It feeds 3 radiators and heats my calorifier. Had no problems with it but would also like the thermostat added mostly to switch the pump off when cool enough. ok so a standard AC rated stat should still work good to know as struggling to find anything specifically rated for 12v dc. Yes I agree will also want the main override switch for testing and safety.

Thanks Tony really appreciate this makes much more sense with the diagram absolutely would want an override switch yes good idea.

Ok will look into this idea further as sounds like not as simple as I thought. Sorry don’t really get the relay thing so perhaps best to find someone else to do this job. The system did use to have a thermostat doing this but it got taken out when I had the pump replaced. I’ve already got the pump with switch set up fine and always remember to turn it on as soon as I light the fire but i would really like it to switch itself off when it’s cooled down over night for instance so it doesn’t run when not needed and cool down my water My header tank is external and open so won’t be exploding and filling the boat with steam.

I know there are some existing threads about this but it’s easier to ask my own questions outright I want to install a pipe thermostat to my stove backboiler to automatically turn on my 12vcirculatory pump to my radiators and califorer on/off as the temp rises and falls. My pump is already installed so I’ll be adding the stat to the system to turn off as my stove cools and automatically turn on as it reaches desired temp. 1) can I use any pipe stat or do I need to find a special 12v one? 2) wiring- can someone summarise where the negative and positive will go? I assume positive into the stat then from stat to pump but I’m unsure about the off position and the negative? Do I just keep negative on the pump?

Yea I made mistake of buying shock mob pump and gauge set too high to get accurate reading. i bought a cheap digital gauge form go outdoors for about £8. Lost no more than 0.5 PSI through repeat testing so I just accounted for that when using bike pump to adjust pressure. in other news… sorted my pressure problem in kitchen tap! Was just a load of crap blocking the aerator on the end of the tap. Easy fix. Glad I checked that before anything else!

Low with pump running too but only at the kitchen tap on both hot and cold bathroom is fine maybe a bit high

Thanks. Have done this now and my pump is definitely not cycling as long after taps have been on and I get the delay of it kicking in as water from accumulator is used first. odd thing now is the water pressure in my bathroom (closest to water pump) is quite high and the kitchen (furthest away) is really low on both hot and cold (almost just a trickle). Not sure why or how to even this out? It was fine when we first fitted the new calorifier seems to have dropped after I’ve played about with the accumulator and expansion tank pressures. But I wouldn’t of thought this should affect pressure of flow from the taps? Perhaps a blockage?

Thanks all just wanted to double check. The accumulator was at the cut OUT pressure when I first checked it and expansion had no pressure at all! Now have the accumulator set at cut in pressure and the expansion set at just above the cut out. I will keep rechecking the pressures over next few days. Pump still running for seemingly much longer time than needed but I suspect still some air in the system. did get a fair bit of air out when I ran the tap after these adjustments so I’ll see how it goes over next few days or so. also I am comparing it to the previous set up which was clearly wrong as my pump would go off as soon as any tap turned on which I now understand is because the accumulator must not of been holding hardly any water if it’s pressure was too high!

Thanks probably would of worked better but we’ve done it now just removed it while water was in the tank and drained it out off the boat

Thanks. This says to set the accumulator at the CUT IN pressure of the pump is that correct? Not the cut out pressure? I’ve adjusted it to the cut in pressure and it’s still running for a long time after tap is turned on. Tank was leaking

Thanks both. I’ll check pressure of the accumulator and expansion tank too as think most likely this. And yes we have fitted with outlet at top but could still be some air in it maybe. good news is it’s stopped burping overnight so no more leaks! that’s the first big DIY job done on my boat since I had it so really appreciate everyone’s input!

Hi all appreciate the replies. We cracked on and got the tank out with water in it. Wasn’t as big a puddle as we expected. New tank fitted and system filled and seemingly working ok… issue I have now is water pump running too far too long after running hot tap then a slight stutter as it the pump finally shits off. Pressure drop in my water pump from disconnecting it maybe? I have an accumulator tank connected directly after the pump.

Thanks but as I can run the taps without the stopcock open it seems, the calorifier will just keep filling back up surely. that’s a good diagram thanks

Haha ok thanks for this as I said I tried the suggestions above by closing stopcock and disconnecting the feed pipe between stopcock and pump. Ran pump with taps open and didn’t work. Thanks doesn’t look like I have any other shut off valves after the stopcock other than to the taps. Something we will hopefully sort when plumbing in new tank!

Thanks just tried shutting off valve from water tank and disconnecting the inlet to the water pump. Opened all taps and didn’t work. Just a trickle of water and then basically stopped. at this point I think it’s just easier to drain the whole system including water tank.

Help please! fitting new calorifier tank today and just gone to drain the system by shutting off the water feed from the holding tank to the pump and opening all taps but the pump runs and water doesn’t come out! i haven’t seen a shut off valve anywhere on the cold feed line into the calorifier so I’m struggling to understand how I can drain the tank in order to disconnect and remove it! any suggestions? thanks in advance

Not really anywhere else to put it and we have/will improve the access. Half the problem was the original owners built in stairs over it and boards the screws so deep you can’t find them and rounded off the tops! what size tanks do others have aboard?

got twin coil that heats from either engine or back boiler on fire. Plus a 1k inverter yes want to do washing up and a shower every day really that’s all. Yes but this is so tight in the current space be easier to install a small one really

Ok update: have stripped out all my steps to get better access and found a weeping area on the tank at the back so unfortunately looks like I’ll have to replace the tank. For the moment we are just jogging something to divert the water straight into the bilge. I suppose only good thing is we didn’t have to completely remove the tank to diagnose it. what size tank shall I get? I think I could do with downsizing the tank a bit I believe what I have now is about 60-ish litres. What size do people recommend? I live on board on my own. also and recommendations where to purchase a new twin coil calorifier?

Yeah I didn’t think there would be another drain point but thought I’d check. I’ve checked and doesn’t seem to be leaking from that drain though was my first suspicion. That whole pipe is a bit dodgy as has more joins than pipe for some reason so gonna look to swap that out too. hopefully I’ll get to the bottom of it with some help from my dad tomorrow and we will empty/ lift the tank to inspect underneath wish me luck and thanks for all the help!