Katie

Yeah fair point probably easier!

It appears my fresh water pump has a tiny leak from around the pumphead. Is it just a case of replacing a seal? I’m struggling to find any for the Jabsco par max 2.9 specifically. Would any others fit perhaps?

Yes I’ve had friends put screenwash on their coolant in the past so didn’t want to be THAT person! Hahaha well I have now successfully done my first oil and filter change thanks for the help folks! And so far no leaks so that’s another notch on my boater belt 😀 …. just a shame I ordered the wrong air filter!

Thanks! Thought so just wanted to be 100% right before I go pouring stuff in there! Haha

Attempting to change oil and filter on my BMC 1.5 and confident about that part. Stupidly I’m unsure of where to top up the new oil!? Would it be the green cap on the left? If not, I have no idea where else but don’t want to get something so simple wrong!

Thanks for this my pump was professionally fitted last year but at the moment I leave it running the entire time my stove is lit to be safe. It feeds 3 radiators and heats my calorifier. Had no problems with it but would also like the thermostat added mostly to switch the pump off when cool enough. ok so a standard AC rated stat should still work good to know as struggling to find anything specifically rated for 12v dc. Yes I agree will also want the main override switch for testing and safety.

Thanks Tony really appreciate this makes much more sense with the diagram absolutely would want an override switch yes good idea.

Ok will look into this idea further as sounds like not as simple as I thought. Sorry don’t really get the relay thing so perhaps best to find someone else to do this job. The system did use to have a thermostat doing this but it got taken out when I had the pump replaced. I’ve already got the pump with switch set up fine and always remember to turn it on as soon as I light the fire but i would really like it to switch itself off when it’s cooled down over night for instance so it doesn’t run when not needed and cool down my water My header tank is external and open so won’t be exploding and filling the boat with steam.

I know there are some existing threads about this but it’s easier to ask my own questions outright I want to install a pipe thermostat to my stove backboiler to automatically turn on my 12vcirculatory pump to my radiators and califorer on/off as the temp rises and falls. My pump is already installed so I’ll be adding the stat to the system to turn off as my stove cools and automatically turn on as it reaches desired temp. 1) can I use any pipe stat or do I need to find a special 12v one? 2) wiring- can someone summarise where the negative and positive will go? I assume positive into the stat then from stat to pump but I’m unsure about the off position and the negative? Do I just keep negative on the pump?

Yea I made mistake of buying shock mob pump and gauge set too high to get accurate reading. i bought a cheap digital gauge form go outdoors for about £8. Lost no more than 0.5 PSI through repeat testing so I just accounted for that when using bike pump to adjust pressure. in other news… sorted my pressure problem in kitchen tap! Was just a load of crap blocking the aerator on the end of the tap. Easy fix. Glad I checked that before anything else!

Low with pump running too but only at the kitchen tap on both hot and cold bathroom is fine maybe a bit high

Thanks. Have done this now and my pump is definitely not cycling as long after taps have been on and I get the delay of it kicking in as water from accumulator is used first. odd thing now is the water pressure in my bathroom (closest to water pump) is quite high and the kitchen (furthest away) is really low on both hot and cold (almost just a trickle). Not sure why or how to even this out? It was fine when we first fitted the new calorifier seems to have dropped after I’ve played about with the accumulator and expansion tank pressures. But I wouldn’t of thought this should affect pressure of flow from the taps? Perhaps a blockage?

Thanks all just wanted to double check. The accumulator was at the cut OUT pressure when I first checked it and expansion had no pressure at all! Now have the accumulator set at cut in pressure and the expansion set at just above the cut out. I will keep rechecking the pressures over next few days. Pump still running for seemingly much longer time than needed but I suspect still some air in the system. did get a fair bit of air out when I ran the tap after these adjustments so I’ll see how it goes over next few days or so. also I am comparing it to the previous set up which was clearly wrong as my pump would go off as soon as any tap turned on which I now understand is because the accumulator must not of been holding hardly any water if it’s pressure was too high!

Thanks probably would of worked better but we’ve done it now just removed it while water was in the tank and drained it out off the boat

Thanks. This says to set the accumulator at the CUT IN pressure of the pump is that correct? Not the cut out pressure? I’ve adjusted it to the cut in pressure and it’s still running for a long time after tap is turned on. Tank was leaking