BigRoj

I believe it's to do with the fact that boats built since the RCD became effective must comply as such. Boats built before the RCD came into being are governed by the BSS as regards the fitting of gas appliances, that is, if a non room-sealed gas water heater was fitted originally then it can be replaced like for like as long as it complies with the BSS regulations. Special care must be exercised on a petrol fueled boat. Rob at the BSS office will be able to shed more light on this.

I bought 3 of these, at £100 when they first came out 5 years ago, £50 3 years ago, and £35 2 years ago. The £35 one is still sealed in the box. The other 2 do sterling service powering, variously, a cement mixer, 1200W Bosch drill (although it does trip out now and again), angle grinder, polisher, sanders, and power for the 1220 charger on the boat and the main electrics. The cheapest was bought as a source of spares for when the other 2 packed in. As yet they haven't!!!

If it's a fiesta based van engine, it should rev 'til the govenor cuts in, which will be just under 5000 as long as no-one has mucked about with the stop screw. If it's a marinised version with the heavier flywheel, then 4000 should be your limit unless you have any documentation to show otherwise. If it's a Turbo version, then things alter again!! But 4000 would still be the safe maximum that it will run at.

As I said, it was just a guess. After all, I am just a mere Mechanical Engineer, what would I know?

This is a guess, but I would imagine that when the lock is full, and the single gate is opened, all the water of the previous pound is up against the end gates. If it was a single, there would be a lot of strain/pressure on that gate. However, a double gate is wedged in a V shape, and is thus more able to accept this pressure, and make it more water-tight than a single gate would. The only time all the previous pounds water pressure is on the single gate is when a boat is exiting the bottom gates. (which is why you should keep the gates closed to conserve water) I suspect also that double gates will be used where there is a long pound and a deep lock. Possibly.

Hello Tony, being brave then eh? From Meadow Lane Lock, onwards on the Trent, your stopping points will be: Holme Lock (Very deep, 13 ft normal) moor upstream, pontoon at lock exit. Stoke Lock, pontoon upstream, alighting point downstream lock exit. Gunthorpe Lock, Pontoon 200m upstream, mooring on upstream lock wall. Hazelford lock, mooring upstream and downstream of lock, probably the prettiest lock on the Trent Farndon, mooring near the marina and the pub. Newark Dyke section, mooring opposite the castle and through the bridge down to the pontoon, also at the Kings marina, but there's a fee I believe. Nether lock, mooring below near railway bridge Private pontoon mooring available at the Muskham Ferry pub, by appointment I think. Cromwell lock, mooring above on pontoon and topside lock wall. Then make sure your bladder and anything else is empty once through Cromwell and onto the tidal stuff, the next stop you could make for, ahem, 'comfort breaks' is quite probably the staging at High Marnham power station (disused) There's a pontoon at Dunham, Torksey next, pontoon below the lock Gainsborough, pontoon West Stockwith lock, but I would think you'd have to pen through to moor up. Finally to Keadby and through to the Keadby canal and there's mooring through the swing bridge. At this time of year, and being solo, it may not be a good time to do Trent falls and on to Goole or Selby or York. Be far better off going through Keadby and onto the South Yorks navigations and Aire and Calder, if only so you can stop where you like when necessary! (Also, you have to pay to go through the lock at Goole) Good luck, the Lock-keepers will advise you whats what once you get to Cromwell, but you are advised to phone Cromwell 24 hours before you go through, just so they know you're coming and can 'book' you in.

Simply because they can!!! Surely, isn't it better that these boats are used for for a job like this than just being left to rot? Or, heaven forbid, altered beyond recognition so that their original purpose is all but forgotten?

I might be missing something here, but why would you want to plug it into a modified (from an inverter) 240v socket when the original voltage is 12v to begin with? Personally, if you want to power some 12v equipment, then using power direct from the battery would be more efficient, even when on a mains hook-up. I know where you're coming from with this though, you've got something that looks handy and it would be a crime not to use it. Whereas in fact it would be a crime TO use it, specifically on a boat. With 12va per output, that's only 1 amp at 12 volt. You would have to use the outputs in parallel to get a decent va rating. And then it needs rectifying to get 12vdc, so there's going to be losses there too. For the boat, it's probably not going to be worth it. Sorry.

As I'm sure you'll do exactly as you please Mav, and probably end up with a 72 footer in the end, think on this: Are we here for a good time or a long time? BTW, what is it with Dawncraft? Loads of people swear by them, but I can't quite see the attraction. (This is the polite/diplomatic version )

TBH Andy, I'd be inclined to do away with the Gennys battery and charger and run cables straight from the main engine starter battery. If it's an inbuilt unit as you say and not likely to be shifted, it will add to it's starting reliability and take away the uncertainty of the gennys own charger.

I suspect it's the same mentality that some caravanners have with these so-called 'club' rallies. All that's missing with the Nb lot is a flagpole with a pennant hanging limply from it. In other words, a lack of individuality! (Mind you, at least caravanners do it in a field in the middle of nowhere, and only block the roadway going to and from their Jamboree)