Shaun85
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Posts posted by Shaun85
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Noted ??....
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Thanks for the information, much appreciated
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Not too sure hard heavy plastic isnt a viable answer I’ll have to contact the boat builders
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Attached are photos of the outlets/inlets of the water tank on board. I have two questions
1. would a metal thread be ok going into the bottom outlet?
2. I think I’m right in guessing the large top inlet is to fill from the deck, but what is the thin bend inlet/outlet for? Overflow?
thanks in advanced
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I did think that just wanted to see if anyone else had that as a suggestion.
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I could quite happily attach the calorifier to the bulk head in the engine bay but how do I mount it onto the swims? It’s got the standard brackets(mounting feet) but not happy with drilling into the swim for obvious reasons. Any help with mounting ideas would be appreciated
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6 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:
One of the issues with canal water (and less so River water) is Weil's disease the Leptospira are incredibly small – they can pass through the pores in water filters, even those that claim to remove bacteria. They will pass easily through filters with a pore size of more than 0.2 micron, including membrane and charcoal types.
My water filter is 0.1 micron (absolute) and I would not use canal water without the addition of sterilisation tablets (chlorine). It does also need a 'post-filter' activated carbon filter to minimise the taste of oils and diesel.
6 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:Weil's disease is not to be messed with. A friend had what he thought was a bad cold, next thing he knew was waking up three days later in intensive care. Was lucky to have survived. It can go very bad. A bit like another disease that has been in the news over the last year. It gets in to the canal water via rat urine, so another yuck reason not to risk it!
Jen
6 hours ago, IanD said:Don't get the Weil's reference / water filter comments -- surely we're talking about water from an onboard tank which was filled from a mains tap here, not canal water? Unless the tank is badly rusted or contaminated (in which case, fix the problem!) there's no reason the water quality should be any worse than tap water on land -- remember many houses also used a cold water tank in the roof to supply most of the cold taps, and many still do, this is no worse than a boat tank.
[aah, just spotted the OP's "waterfreedom" post, shows what happens when you don't read the entire thread -- well I certainly wouldn't do that...]
If the problem is water taste (just like tap water) then feel free to fit a filtration/dechlorination system for drinking water, just like some people do on land. But safety is very unlikely to be an issue with UK tap water, things are different elsewhere including some first world countries like the USA -- especially if you live somewhere like Flint, Michigan...
Personally I've drunk "raw" tap water ever since I were a lad in houses and on boats and never had an issue with it, at least in the UK it's probably safer than bottled water ?
I will mainly be on rivers more than Canals, so will use Canal services from regular tap which Ive no issue with but will use river water through purification. I know about Weils Disease and aware of it, but have consumed river water on my travels around the world through filtration and not had any issues. Im not going to be wreckless through water consumption and will fully ensure water is safe to drink before consuming. So Canal water no - River Water yes - and Tap water no matter where its from always yes.
RE above all with pump and pressure etc. Thank you for the comments will continue with the set up i was going ahead with as seems to be alright and confirmed via this thread!
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Again Thank you very much Jen. Appreciate your reply
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Been looking at this chaps system
www.waterfreedom.co.uk
I’m a little way off of this installation yet but having travelled the world and drank from some very questionable water sources, guts of ironside here!
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Again another good option
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6 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
Flow rates is as much about pipe diameter, length and number of bends as it is about pressure, perhaps more so. I can actually measure flow rate as I installed a flow meter in the supply to the pump as part of a system to calculate how much water is in the tank. The pump is similar to the one that @Alan de Enfield has shown in the post above. With all taps open in the kitchen and bathroom, the actual flow rate is about half what the pump is capable of, due to the restrictions that the pipework introduce. If you are really worried about flow rate to a shower, then it may be worth using 22mm, rather than 15mm for the runs from the tank and too the calorifier and to the shower, however you will then empty your water tank faster while showering and have to fill up more often! Most people find 15mm pipework with the type of pump shown above perfectly adequate.
Jen
Thank you Jen I used 15mm pretty much throughout a house renovation so happy with that flow ( i know house is different to boat etc ) but preservation of water is key, so 15mm it is may alter this once i fit a canal water filtration system. Thank you for the information tho. That Pump seems to be a favoured one with many boaters!
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Cheers Bengo
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Nice one Alan I'll have a look!
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Currently building out a 60ft narrow. Unsure of what pressure pump i should be going for, 25, 30, 40psi!? I will be using mainly Speedfit through out so know that the pipe work and joints can handle higher pressures. Just unsure of what would be considered a good flow from the above ratings. One Shower and Two basins on board. Cheers
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This is what i was thinking, I'm a continuous cruiser so will never be away from the boat for long periods of time, and like all mechanical things clean, so will always be having my head in the engine bay. That and the hatch under the stairs i think i could manage, with one manual pump and then one electrical one i can like you said throw onto the battery direct and use it when needed, plus got a decent sponge and bucket!!!! ha!
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You think the inspection hatch and a manual pump for emergency would be sufficient for the cabin. Then just have the auto one for the engine bay?
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Curious to best practice in regards to Bilge pumps, will have mine accessible via a hatch under the cabin stairs as no run holes through bulk head. Could this bilge's pump out go through the bulk head into the engine bay then out via the engine bilge pump? OR Would a decent cabin bilge be able to pump water upwards and out via side hole in hull above water line?
Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers.
Water Tank Outlets
in Build Blogs
Posted
Agreed on Bore Valve.