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Sorry for the delay in replying but I have been away for a week, life interfering with my build again. Thanks for the advice. I am currently looking at two products superwool 607LTI and insulfrax board which are probably over the top in respect of fire resistance, flame resistance and thermal insulation, but if I can fix tiles to the surface then I believe it will sort the problem.

Hi, Just reached the point of fitting our morso stove and have found all the threads and advice relating to it very useful. The general advice seems to suggest that it is acceptable to insulate the boat linings from the flue and the stove by a layer of masterboard / superlux type board, overlaid with tiles, obviously with a ciculating air gap included. I feel I may be being over cautious, but I understand, from the data sheet, that the continuous operating temperature is limited to 80degrees C. and I assume all of the cement type boards are similarly limited. The flue gas temperatures are around 300degrees C normally, hence my concern I've researched other products, but the better the insulation the less dense is the material, and it then becomes difficult to attach a tile finish. Trying to source high temperature products in small quantities is a nightmare especially when you know as little about the subject as I do. I can't find out, what the surface temperature of the lining 4inches away is likely to be. Has anyone got a morso stove and a thermometer! Any help or advice would be much appreciated. Rick

Hi John Fortunately Thats exactly what I have done with the cabin sides and achieved a 14mm gap. But not with the hull. (too late now). How much do you think the polystyrene 'wall paper' idea will add to the u-value. Do you agree that the below water line level is significant in respect of the condensation? mmmm ----- not sure why you get less thermal transmission with the timber batten fixed to the side than the face. Richard

Hi Catweasel I made sure they sprayed behind the angle iron when it was carried out. I am sure the problem relates to the lack of insulation between the ply face and the steel angle iron face (30mm of timber). What I am wondering is if the problem only relates to the below waterline stiffener. Presumably the canal is acting like a big heat sink. Will I get a similar problem to Stewart with condensation on the cabin ceiling where I have 20mm battens fixed at right angles to the stiffeners and 6 mm ply about to be fixed. I was hoping that 26mm of timber would create enough insulation. I have noticed that the Tekscrew fixing heads whilst buried below the level of the timber face are wet with condensation and to prevent future stain marks am considering blobbing ant-condensation paint on each screw head. Richard

Sorry to butt in Stuart but I have just left my boat with a minor panic and similar problem. I have lined the hull side with 12 mm faced ply. this is fixed to an 18 mm thick timber batten which in turn was fixed to the horizontal and vertical angle iron. Other than where the battens are fixed the boat has been spray foamed. I am in the process of lining the cabin sides. My wife aked me why there was a horizontal stain (damp) on the ply face exactly where the lower batten ran. I said "oh dear" and removed one of the panels it was dry on the back and so was the timber batten. The problem must be condensation due to cold bridging through 30mm of timber! I'm now thinking of varnishing both sides of the ply as soon as possible and 'wallpapering' the timber battens with polystyrene, unless the very helpful members can think of a better alternative. The lower batten that has created the problem is below the water level and Im wondering if this is the only place that needs attention. Richard

That makes sense. However, why does this not apply when connecting the two ends of a ring to a single fuse? If a ring was inadvertently broken this would, in effect, convert it into two seperate radials. The circuit and appliances attached would remain in working order, drawing as much current as before, without any indication that anything is untoward. The two radials would run to a single fuse, rated at twice their capacity. Thus there is the possibility, that either radial could exceed its rated capacity. For example, a household 32A mains circuit runs from a single fuse to a ring made up of 16A cable. This is fine, unless there is a break part-way round the ring. Three 10A sockets now on one side of the break, could draw 30A across the 16A rated cable, where previously this would have been shared across both sides of the ring. Mat

What is the advantage of a ring main? In particular, I will be wiring up about seven double sockets along one side of my boat. I'm not sure whether to wire it up as a single radial, or as a ring. Tradition dictates a ring, but I can't see why. In theory, an (unbroken) ring can safely handle twice as much current as a radial. However, should a break occur it will remain undetected as all outlets will still work, but the remaining cables could be loaded byond their rated capacity without the fuse blowing. It seems safer to wire up as a radial? I see the same problem in a house, although there is much less chance of a break than in a boat's vibratory environment. Mat, son of Richard

Thanks chaps. I'll carry on then. Happy Christmas to all.

I'm currently at the stage of installing my ply lining in conjunction with AC supply. Advice would be appreciated as to fitting (securely) the socket back boxes. I'm considering using dry lining boxes. These are only available in plastic, presumably plastic is okay? Thanks Richard

Iwould appreciate a reply to this question as I am hoping to install my engine next week and use for the first time the fuel tank. It occurred to me that a drain tap would be a good idea. Are there any specific regs involved?