Withywindle

Our boat has been tucked up on its moorings until yesterday when we returned to get it ready for the new season. The engine is a Beta 38. Before I started her up I checked everything over including the coolant level and was shocked at how much it had dropped. I could actually see the bottom of the header tank on top of the engine. There was no evidence of a leak anywhere in the bilge area including the bunded area immediately beneath the engine everything was bone dry. Similarly the calorifier pipe showed no signs of leaks along it’s length. My antifreeze was at 50% concentration so hopefully no real danger of freeze damage to the block and the oil, which I had changed immediately before the winter, was still perfectly clean and at the correct level with no sign of water contamination . Anyway I topped up with over two litres of coolant and ran the engine for one and a half hours, monitoring everything carefully during that time. No sign of leaks and once cool I checked the level again. It was fine and it hadn’t lost a drop. This all strikes me as strange. I’m glad that on the face of things everything seems ok, but it bothers me how it could have happened. The only thought is that there has been an air pocket in the system somewhere and with the engine not been run for quite a while it’s resolved itself and the corresponding level in the header tank has dropped. I shouldn’t mention that that I visited the boat in January and ran the engine then for half an hour. I noticed then that the coolant was a little down on normal but not excessively so. Any thoughts on this? Has anyone else had anything similar happen after a winter lay up?

Confession time here. My first gearbox oil change on my boat was by sucking out the oil via the dipstick hole and I noticed the oil quantity I removed was nowhere near the amount it should have been. So I decided I needed to do the job properly next time, hence this post about sealing washers.

Well I think ‘Bee’ might be right. Who knows, PRM might have substituted copper crush washers for a while if there was a problem with supply of the bonded type. I’ve only come across bonded sealing washers once before - the sump washers on a Toyota Yaris my daughter once had, they were extortionate from the main dealer too! Anyway, in this case I’m about to buy some M16 bonded washers from Simply Bearings at £3.99 for five. It was going to cost getting on for £10 for one genuine PRM washer once I’d added on the carriage. I’ll leave the copper one under the dipstick alone I think. 😊

Yes I thought the dipstick one wouldn’t be critical as an oil tight seal. Perhaps PRM fitted it for that reason and because it would be more durable in day to day use? I’ve just checked the parts list and a 1/2 BSP Bonded Washer is listed as the dipstick seal. Out of interest, here is the list and diagram I’ve been referring to…

That’s interesting. The dipstick washer on my gearbox is copper not a Dowty bonded seal. Perhaps I’ve got the wrong part number. 🤔

I need to get some sump plug seals for my PRM 150 Gearbox which was first commissioned in 2005. I downloaded the workshop manual from PRM which specifies an M16 Dowty Bonded Seal (part number PRM 0191716) as you’d expect the genuine PRM seals are expensive when I see generic M16 Dowty Bonded Seals are widely available elsewhere at a fraction of the price. Before I bite the bullet and buy the genuine PRM seals I was wondering whether other owners have used generic seals without any issues? If so, any recommendations for good quality aftermarket seals?

Thanks. Yes he was indeed right. After some very gentle prising the cover came off. Not so much a cap but more of a ‘plug’ shaped arrangement with a silicone seal beneath. The bulb was the real issue to get out. The rubber tube method failed in this case, not enough grip. In the end I used tweezers with the ends covered with two rubber float caps from my fishing tackle box to provide the grip. The bulb is a tiny type 386 ‘midget groove’ 14v bulb. These are still available on the web as panel lights, however Vetus do also sell them in packs of five and quite reasonably for them! I’m near the Vetus dealer at Kings Lock, Middlewich, later today so intend to drop in and see if they have some. This was mainly why I was keen to get the bulb out, so I knew exactly what I was looking for.

Fair enough.To be honest I don’t visit forums myself very often so hadn’t realised. Never mind, worth a try.

I know this is a very old thread but did you manage to fit a new switch or replace the bulb? Mine has ‘gone’ too and I see Vetus do actually sell the replacement bulbs for this switch. I too can’t see how the switch comes out of the panel and I don’t want to break anything by getting over enthusiastic!

No I think it’s genuine Beta. It matches all of the others. In fairness the belt only just touches probably at high speed , but over time it’s going to wear as the one the previous owner left me bears testimony. I’m confident I can fix the problem using a lower profile bolt now I know It’s not the belt sizing that’s the issue.

Indeed, I’m going to replace the bolt with a low profile version or perhaps just a standard hex. 🤔 Current clearance is about 5mm. Will post a pic tomorrow all being well. Beta have told me 214-02954 for my build.

Someone needs to design a fridge that runs on ‘ever decreasing circles’ you could wire it up to threads like this and it would keep going for weeks. 😂

With a heavy heart I just removed our ageing 12v fridge and replaced it with a 240v model. I did this because I couldn’t get a 12v model which would fit the rather odd sized fridge gap in the galley. I have been pleasantly surprised, having expected problems. The 12v fridge was worn out, I suspect it had lost most of its refrigerant and consequently the compressor was running far more than it needed to so it had clearly been putting a high drain on my batteries. They are in much better shape each morning than they ever were with the old 12v fridge. My beer is also much cooler. 👍 The best is that I sold the old 12v fridge on eBay as ‘parts or not working’ and got more for it than the new 240v fridge cost! The chap who bought it was a non boater who was intending to run it off a single solar panel in his garden shed and keep cold drinks in it. I tried to subtly point out some of the flaws in this rather hair brained idea but he was having none of it!

Just an update to conclude this. I received a reply from Beta Marine who confirm that the 6PK1300 is indeed correct. My engine build is an unusual one for Colecraft with the Travel Power Generator and consequently the part number for the belt is not widely listed. Thanks to everyone who responded. As ever your advice and comments where very useful.

That’s great thanks, although it now looks like my belt will be different to yours. The travel power is indeed a great bit of kit, not something I was looking for when we bought the boat, but it’s been a real bonus.

Well that’s true, you’re right of course and the belts I have do fit albeit they’re at the very maximum end of the adjustment. It’s just the way they run too close to that Allen bolt that is bugging me. I guess I just want to know the correct size, hopefully I’ll get a reply from Beta soon.

Quick update. After further digging just realised my belt is an unusual one as I have a Dometic Travel power unit installed. Part number is 214-04218. Oh joy! Still need to verify belt length but probably only Beta Themselves will be able to answer. Thanks for all of the help and sorry my original post was misleading.

Now that is interesting. Your belt is over 7cm shorter which reinforces my hunch that the belts in my service kit are wrongly sized. I don’t suppose you have your original operator maintenance manual? If the Beta part listed in it is either 214-0613 or 214-0614 then that would confirm we have the same engine and I’m running the wrong belt size. If you see what I mean. Update: See my latest post below - I’ve been quoting incorrect part numbers. So unless you also have a Travel Power unit our belts will be a different length. Thanks, it all looks to be in alignment. The previous owner a marine engineer had the belts running rather looser than I would have done, but they say better loose than over tight as that can prematurely wear the bearings. So I left them. I now think the belt may have jumped on the crankshaft pulley as a result which caused it to shred. You live and learn. I’ve fitted the new one somewhat tighter but I’m still concerned how close it runs to the adjustment bolt hence trying to establish the correct sizing. I’ve asked Beta for the correct belt length for my engine but haven’t had a reply yet. I suspect they may just say buy a Beta genuine belt for peace of mind. We’ll see.

I’m after some advice regarding the top mount 70amp top alternator belt fitted to Beta 38 engines. This is the one dedicated to the domestic battery bank. I bought my boat last year and the previous owner left several new spare belts for this alternator ranging in size from 6pk1295 to 6pk1305. The current belt a 6pk1300 failed yesterday. I’m pretty sure this was as a result of the belt wearing on the outside edge due to its perilously close proximity to the adjustment Allen bolt. If you have a Beta 38 you may well know what I mean by this. If the belt is on the loose side it can touch the adjustment bolt momentarily when the engine accelerates up, or at least it appears to on my engine. Anyway I’ve replaced the belt but I’m starting to wonder if the previous owner had bought the correct size spares. A used one he left has the same ‘tell tale’ wear line. Beta part number is 214-02614 but predictably they don’t state the actual belt length! Can anyone tell me the length of the genuine Beta belt so I can confirm I’m using the correct size? It should be printed on the outside edge. If I am indeed using the correct size belt, I’m considering replacing the current Allen bolt with a regular hex bolt which my measurements indicate will provide much better clearance. Again, has anyone thought about doing this?

To answer my own original question. I’ve now been down to Stourport and I’m heading back. The Bratch no longer sell pump out cards but the lock keeper there, an excellent volunteer called Shelley, told me all the volunteers are very keen to sell them and are putting pressure on CRT to make it happen. I later met my former CRT colleague who is also keen to get things going and as a first step is opening a shop at Stourport which will sell them and take contactless payments rather than cash. We discussed the ideas of adapting the machines and I think it will happen in time but in the meantime he’s doing all he can. Small steps, but sometimes, particularly with organisations like CRT this is better than no progress at all.

Funny enough the same thing nearly happened when I used the same machine at Wheaton Aston today but in my case it didn’t quite run for long enough and I had to use a card in the end! I pushed my luck a bit too far and gave the tank a good rinse, then suddenly the credit ran out. I sent my message using the ‘contact us’ form on the website. I got the usual acknowledgment screen, saying thank you for your enquiry and I would receive a reply within four working days, then nothing. I’m starting to wonder whether it’s being monitored.

Indeed, totally agree, but that would also need Lee Sanitation who make the ‘kit’ to improve their machines, probably a bridge too far right now.

I once worked as a seasonal lock keeper. My observation is that 99% of people are wonderful and 1% are plain unpleasant. You can’t pigeon hole boaters either, the bad ones inhabit all types of boating. You won’t change them. They exist in all walks of life too. If they weren’t stealing a lock from you, they’d be stabbing you in the back at work or stealing your sun bed while on holiday in the Med. It’s just the way they are, they usually end their days bitter and lonely.

Well I’ve sent two messages to CRT now on this subject and they’ve duly ignored them both. I have however found somewhere that does sell them on my way south - that’s Talbot Wharf on the Shroppie. So I’m sorted for now but will ask when I get to the Bratch next week. I had an idea a while back about how CRT should sell pump out cards, and that is they should put them on Amazon, but with Amazon handling all the fulfilment. That way boaters like us could order them ahead for collection at Amazon’s huge network of pick up points such as local Post Offices and other convenience stores. The current system of ordering them for delivery to your home address when you’re on the move is pretty much useless for most boaters I think. Most people I’ve mentioned the idea to think it would be a brilliant system, but getting CRT to agree would be an uphill battle that sadly I currently don’t have the time or inclination for right now.