Llamedos

Think I’m with @LadyG on this. She does after all have a solid scientific background and worked in the water industry including the inspection of treatment plants from what she says. The other point is that this company is relatively new. If they’re a success that’s great. If they go bump where do you get your spares, filters etc from.

Well good luck to you then but I’ll stick to my tank of tap water if that’s ok? I think a lot of folk are getting rather carried away with their enthusiasm for this system. Drinking water that has recently been polluted with cyanide to the point where it has wiped out all life would not be something I’d consider sensible no matter how well filtered it was. I posted Water Freedom’s own words on the subject in another thread and I think it’s worth repeating here. This is buried in their small print and I had to use Google AI to find it. This is their words (or the words of their lawyers) not mine… Important Considerations: Legal and Insurance Limitations: Water Freedom explicitly states they can't guarantee the safety of drinking water for legal and insurance reasons. Recommended Additional Filtration: For drinking water, Water Freedom recommends using a medical-grade 0.05 micron undersink filter and/or a ZeroWater filter jug to remove any remaining pathogens or contaminants that might have slipped through their filtration process. Regular Maintenance: Maintaining the system with regular flushing and filter changes is crucial for ensuring its continued effectiveness. Source Water Quality: The effectiveness of the system depends on the quality of the source water. While they can filter water from various sources, the higher the initial contamination, the more thorough the filtration and additional purification may be required. In summary: Water Freedom systems are designed to provide safe and clean water for various purposes, including potentially drinking water, but they require additional filtration for drinking water purposes and regular maintenance to ensure continued effectiveness.

I keep thinking about that cyanide pollution incident near Walsall recently. If I was using one of these systems nearby and hadn’t heard the canal around me was full of Sodium Cyanide, well it doesn’t bear thinking about.

Do you really talk to them like that?

Yeah, you may have a point there. 🤔 Still, I hope they try, and don’t just let it go. We all indirectly pay for these incidents after all.

It all sounds pretty horrendous. You sound like you’re taking it in your stride though and probably more philosophically than I would! Hopefully CRT have ‘clocked’ the offending boat and their legal team will get onto it in due course and try to recover some of the costs? They’re going to be pretty significant I would think.

@Jonny P beat me to it. I think in these cases we have to assume the CRT engineers know what they’re doing. There’s obviously a reason.

The gates at Watford are huge. I’m not surprised a crane is needed.

How many boats like you are stuck there? I bet you’re seething.

I think I’ve done it. Not 100% accurate but good to satisfy my curiosity. I found a calculator online for working out the volume of prism shapes. It’s made it roughly 950 litres (210 gallons). The margin of error is that it doesn’t take into account the curvature of the boat. The horizontal curvature would increase the volume and the vertical curvature would decrease it, so I’ve assumed for rough estimate purposes those two will more or less cancel one another out. Had to use a bit of the old Pythagoras to get the a & b measurements - knew my o level maths would come in handy one day! Here’s a screenshot…

Blimey I don’t think I could be bothered to go to that trouble. I’m well impressed by your ingenuity though. 👍 I read that someone had worked out the litres per second flow rate from their filling hose then timed how long it took to fill their empty tank and extrapolated the result. Don’t think I can be arsed to do that one either. 😂 How badly to I want this information I ask myself? 🤔😂😂 Perhaps I’ll go and do something else. 😊

Mine was doing this exact same thing intermittently a couple of years ago, I have a Beta engine too. I checked all of the connections to the back of the gauge and one spade connection seemed loose and I pushed it back on fully but also around the same time I cleaned all of the connections in the main wiring harness multi plug connector as @Tony Brooks has suggested. This was actually to sort another fault but the tachometer has been fine since then. Never really worked out which of my interventions solved the problem.

I understand. Funny enough my wife’s reaction when I suggested treating the tank was about the possibility of it tainting the taste of the water. She wasn’t keen on me doing it.

That’s it then. I’ve obviously missed read the thread. I won’t bother either. 👍 Still interested to find out my water tank capacity if there are any mathematicians out there.

🤔Thought you said you used thin bleach? I’ve obviously misunderstood.

Confession time. Reading this thread I realise I should be dosing my water tank. I’ve never done it, relying on the ceramic under sink filter system I mentioned earlier in this thread. I probably need to. So having decided to do so I now have the problem that I don’t know the capacity so I get the strength right. It’s an integral tank so it’s not an easy calculation. I’ve looked online for a tank volume capacity calculator, there are plenty but none I can find for an integral bow tank. I know the dimensions they’re - 180cm wide, 175cm long measured at the water surface to the apex of the bow and 60cm water depth when full. I measured these when I had the cover off recently. Can anyone advise me on how the calculate the capacity from these?

I understand. He sounds a bit like my brother in law 🙄. He’s clearly lucky to have you around to advise him. Good luck and keep calm eh. 😊

A brand new engine! Three years without an oil change. 😳 Thats just engineering cruelty! Think you need to sit him down with a beer (or six) and give him a good talking to. 😊

This is probably an unfortunate thing with Kubota (Beta Marine) engines. They’re bomb proof. Meaning they will stand up to a fair amount of neglect. Sooner or later, however your luck will run out!

Ouch!

Having serviced my own cars now for the best part of 50 years and now my boat you can tell your friend that changing oil regularly is the best preventative maintenance you can do. My boat has a shallow sump which means I need to change oil at 150 hours rather than the standard 250 hours. So I do it several times a year. It really is a piece of cake once you get into it. It takes me around half an hour and that’s with the filter too.

This is what I use in my Beta 38 and find it excellent… Exol Taurus SHPD E7 At only £15.50 plus VAT for 5 litres from Rico Europe it’s great value and you don’t have to mess around with those big 25l drums. Furthermore Exol are a very well renowned oil blender so you know the quality is good. The important thing is to use a mineral oil and avoid synthetic. The Kubota block doesn’t like synthetic oil. I get all my oils and filters from Rico Europe in Daventry. Their filters are also really good quality and a fraction of the cost of the Beta Marine filters. Incidentally when I first got my boat I emailed Beta Marine themselves about oil specifications. This is their reply… Hi, Our general recommendation is to use a 15 W/40 Mineral Oil, or Semi Synthetic if this proves difficult to source and NOT to use Fully synthetic as this is not good for the Kubota block. The API spec is not important, as long as it is as stated above. Kind regards Paul Grist