Steve56
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Posts posted by Steve56
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Exactly. If you look at the flywheel from the rear of the engine it will be turning clockwise. If you look at the camshaft from the front of the engine it will also be turning clockwise.
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Just for information as there seems to be some confusion. The std SR engine for marine use is clockwise rotation . This is always rotation of the flywheel when looking from behind. If it was anti clockwise rotation it would have a letter A in the number, but very rare for a marine engine. Therefore if standard rotation ( clockwise) the camshaft will also be running in a clockwise rotation.
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On 07/08/2020 at 19:37, Spoonman said:
I believe it is normal clockwise rotation ,as anticlockwise SR's have a letter A after the engine type? Looking from the stern end of my boat the fly wheel goes clockwise
That is correct. The letter A denotes anti clockwise rotation. So your engine will be clockwise rotation.Therefore the alternator drive from the camshaft will also be clockwise rotation.
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7 hours ago, sharpness said:
That's right, there is no connection with The Ship at Framilode now, it changed hands 6 months ago. There was an attempt to buy it as a community owned pub but it was eventually bought by a local family. I think I would still be looking for Carla if we wanted a mooring there.
I can confirm that it is still Carla you would need to contact. Sorry I don't have a contact number. And as far as I know there is still a long waiting list.
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On 29/07/2020 at 21:22, Arthur Marshall said:
Thats what mine was like. The legs holding it fell to bits and the bloke who rebuilt the engine lost it and stuck a filter on instead. I always wondered if the extra resistance would make a difference or whether i should remake the original.
Just for information the later slightly more powerful ST engines were always fitted with air filters as standard. So I don't think an air filter on your engine would cause any problems. Also the SR industrial engines were always fitted with air cleaners.
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There just seems to be so much misunderstanding with this post. Originally it was said that if the OP wanted to move his engine he could undo the top mounting nuts and do so. As long as the lower nuts were not disturbed the alignment would not alter.
The paragraph in the book is explaining what to do if you get a nut come loose. In most circumstances the top nut is a lock nut and stays in place and the lower nut becomes loose. In this situation you would raise the lower nut to tighten, exactly as the book. Two totally different situations.
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6 minutes ago, nickhindle said:
Now after reading this passage it all makes perfect sense and totally agree with what has been written.
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8 minutes ago, WotEver said:
I don't know why no-one else has picked up on this but if that's really what Stephanie wrote then she's very confused. The lower nuts set the engine alignment - those are what the mounts sit on - so as long as they don't move you can loosen the top nuts as much as you like, wiggle the engine to your heart's content, then tighten the top nuts back up and everything will be where it started off.
Not that it's relevant to you any longer of course, I just thought it worth pointing out.
Check out posts 8 and 9.
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23 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
Whilst I agree that could be preferable this solenoid is not like the Beta one with external linkage. Its a bit like the Vetus (2 pot) one with the bit that moves inside the engine. At the least it will require a blanking plate with a push or pull rod in it and quiet possibly the rod would need a bush and oil seal. Remember few engine ranges and models will be exactly the same as yours.
Whilst some of the Beta engines have the solenoid with external linkages many of them have an almost identical looking one. I think that even if the engine has an internal type it will probably still have the external stop lever that can accept a cable. Then it would be a simple case of fitting a blanking plate in place of the solenoid.
10 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:Can you gut the solenoid and make it mechanical?
TD'
I think the engine will still have it's normal stop lever in place. I know with the Beta engine, when an internal solenoid is fitted there is still a stop lever.
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Personally I would not even bother with a stop solenoid. Just go for a cable stop. In fact when I bought my new Beta 75 I went into the factory to do a few mods to the engine. One of the mods was to remove the stop solenoid make up brackets to accept a stop cable. As someone said earlier, keep it simple.
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6 hours ago, pedroinlondon said:
So no markings of any sort under the paint on the solenoid.
Having some doubts regarding finding a match.
Does anyone here know which Kioty/Isuzu engine the Canaline 52 is based on?
Thanks
The canaline is based on a Kioti engine not an Isuzu engine. The Kioti engine is very similar to to a Kubota engine, in fact in the past they built Kubota engines under license until the went it alone.
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You could try ASAP supplies. They will sell anything you need on line. Also there site will have technical info on the requirements.
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On a ZF gearbox the line around the dipstick is the oil level. There is no maximum and minimum, just the set level. To check oil level you should just place the dipstick into the hole, but do not screw in. The oil should then be at the mark on the dipstick.
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If you decide to use the engine as a heat exchanger cooled unit it may be a good idea to improve the water injection exhaust outlet. Try to do away with the horrible 90 degree elbow and have a swept bend put in.
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4 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:
New engine, what is all the gubbins under the exhaust manifold,/header that looks like it should have cables attached? Not a gearbox??
I think what you can see under the heat exchanger is the back end of a PRM gearbox. Looks like the gearbox is just led there but not fitted onto engine.
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7 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:
As Tony said, the pump impeller will be ruined because it has run dry. All the bits will be in the heat exchanger tubes and the hoses, you will need to get them ALL out otherwise it will block up again.
TD'
I did mention earlier in the post that all the impeller would have failed due to running dry and the vanes will need to be removed from the pipework Things just seem to get repeated, and we go around in circles.
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If you have run the engine and have not had water coming from the exhaust then the chances are the impeller has disintegrated. The will not last long running dry. Any blockage in the inlet can cause this. Also if the impeller has failed you should try and retrieve any broken vanes from the internal pipework as they can cause restricted flow.
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On 22/06/2020 at 14:59, Tony Brooks said:
The breather should vent the gearbox housing volume above the oil so if it is blocked the dipstick could blow out BUT all the 71Cs U have seen had a crude screw in plug with dip stick attached. I can't see how those would blow out, the oil seals would probably blow.. But that was years ago so it may have changed.
PS - the boxes I knew may have been 72Cs so maybe the 71C did have a push in dipstick that tended to blow out.
Borg Warner seemed to use both types of filler cap/dipstick. Some were screw in, some were push in with an expanding rubber to hold in place.
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Beta are a very helpful company. As well as all of there standard products they build a great deal of specials. Which is why I say there are so many options you could have. Just give them a bell and discuss.
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34 minutes ago, stevencarr29 said:
I am specifying my electrical and engine requirements before I get The Fit-Out pontoon to draw everything up for a few boat builders and I have seen that the base spec I am being offered is a 38 canaline unit with an upgrade option to a Beta 43. I am more than prepared to pay for the Beta 43 but for a few £100 more I can get a Beta 50 which comes with the PRM 150 and dual alternators with the ability to upgrade to a 24v domestic alternator which would work well with my proposed 48/3000 Victron Multiplus II inverter charger.
Has anyone got any thoughts on whether the Beta 50 is a bit over the top for a 60ft semi-trad josher or am I on a winner?
PS I know I probably need dual skin tanks which will be more £ but I like the idea of the better torque.
Any help much appreciated
Steve
You could just ask Beta to fit the parts you want onto the Beta 43 engine. I'm sure they would be more than happy to do this.
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9 hours ago, Chewbacka said:
Why not have a large external skin tank on the other side?
added - as said above ?
This is the way to go. Have a second external tank fitted to the opposite side. Then link both taks together and plumb to engine. This will not affect boat performance in any way.
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Not in Northwich, but Sleeman and Hawken down in Devon are the main Lister dealer. Always happy to post items out.
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8 hours ago, nickhindle said:
Hi all,
I may need to tilt my Vetus M4.15 engine to starboard (or drop the whole thing) to increase the gap on the port side between engine and deck by about 1cm, so I can get a new calorifier through to it's home on the rear bulkhead.
The maintenance book I use ("Narrow Boat Engine" by Stephanie Horton) says in no way should I move the upper nuts on the engine mounting bolts, or I might muck up the alignment of the coupling (which I don't think is flexible).
This suggests I will need to slacken the lower bolts port side and then wind down the starboard bolts until I've got my 1cm.
Any expert recommendations?
Thanks
It seems very odd that the book says do not move the upper nuts. It is the lower nuts that determine the alignment. In theory you could remove the top nuts, lift engine and then replace. As long as you dont move the lower nuts the alignment will remain the same.
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Whatever you do, don't use synthetic oil. Stick with mineral oil only. The API CC is readily available.
When bleeding the filter loosen the bleed screws on the top of the filter and then use the manual lever on the fuel lift pump to fill the filter. Make sure all the air is out before tightening the bleed screws. Do not attempt to start the engine until all the air is removed.
Sr2 engine electrics upgrade - A127 alternator and VSR
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
Lister always quote engine rotation as looking at the flywheel. As you are looking at the camshaft it is also turning clockwise.