Jaston10078

Thanks for that, David! In response to Nick. Perhaps I should have rephrased my post slightly. With a baby on board, my attitude to certain risks has changed. So here goes... I'm of the opinion that there must be a better way regarding expansion vessels and if this type of vessel works as is described then I'd be interested in fitting one (or two). I would be glad to hear from anyone who has any experience with this type of vessel or anyone who can anticipate any issues with its use.

Has anyone heard of these? https://www.ryva-watersolutions.be/varem-flovarem-fv3-3-liter-1f-1m.html They are a true flow through type of vessel. Has anyone had any experience of them? I've been thinking of ways to reduce the risks associated with use of dead legs and traditional expansion vessels.

Awaiting reply

Thanks, blackrose. I'm reassured given your figures that my unit is working as the old output was 14.4v during absorbtion and is now at 14.8v. Yellow was wired to D+ terminal and I spotted the 300mA draw so have now wired it to a disused breaker so I can switch it on and off there. (still the phantom current is being drawn) Other than the battery positive sense wire, where can it be accessing +12v? Do I have a short somewhere?

Hi all, I've installed a Sterling Pro Reg (DW) as per the instructions*. It seems to be working well. It has increased the voltage output to what our batteries actually need. The device seems to be drawing about 300mA every 5 seconds or so for about a second when engine off. Is this normal? *I've attached the negative sense cable to the load side of the shunt rather than directly to the bank negative. (the alternator negative is also attached to the same spot)

Hello everyone, Our Thermo Pro 90 is about 3 years old and has recently started what I can only describe as wheezing and puffing smoke while running at full pelt. It seems to subside a bit when it throttles down. Here's a video I've uploaded to YouTube Webasto Thermo pro 90 wheezing We run it on white diesel only from a dedicated tank and have regularly changed the filter inline from the tank. Has anyone come across this kind of behaviour before? Any advice would be appreciated. James

Thanks for the responses ?. I'll avoid that generator for the time being and consider an upgrade to a Honda eu20i when funds allow. Thanks very much for your help ?

I see, thanks... It was fine up until now though ?. Admittedly it's not a great genny.

Hi there, Can anyone fathom a guess as to what is happening to cause the excessive transformer buzz that has recently started happening when we charge with our generator (a cheaper Honda copy) ? Video in link below... The buzzing gets worse the closer the genny is to the transformer... Is it some kind of interference? We also get a worrying knocking sound from the transformer under higher loads in bulk charge. Any help would be much appreciated. James

Just an update. Since posting my original post the breakers have not tripped. With electrical tape I did Insulate the ends of the loose led indicator cables for the unused breakers.

Sorry for the late reply, Tony. No sharp movements or heavy vibration... Though to test this, I gave the wooden panel upon which the breakers are mounted a moderate beating with a rubber mallet... The breakers were unaffected. My wife thinks I'm going mad. No breakers tripping all of yesterday... Charged the batteries with the generator with no apparent issue. Fridge doing its thing quite happily... Intermittent faults... Infuriating

Ah, yes that would be concerning ?

I have a feeling you might be on to something here...

Yeah, you're right... Not noticed that

Sorry... They take positive from the load side of the breaker and deliver it to the LEDs. My multimeter reads 0 voltage between the terminals at the end of the disconnected cables and negative. I will tape them up anyway.

Those cables are black but are not negative returns, they are positive feeds to the LEDs. They connect to the positive load side of the breaker on the same lug as the cable to appliance. 3 are disconnected in the photo. These 3 breakers are not in use.

Well, this is what had me thinking... On the load side of the breaker is a positive feed to the indicator led on each breaker. The indicator lights up to say that the circuit is working and goes out when the breaker trips so there is current flowing through the breaker even if the appliance is off.

Hi Sir Nibble, I'm assuming single pole as there is a separate negative bus bar for all negatives... I'm not sure what you mean about the breakers being on load.

Here's a diagram of how I understand our boat to be wired... I've not included battery isolators and engine panel Wiring diagram

Good suggestion... The last thing I installed electric wise was the horns. Before that, the fridge, before that the battery monitor. If my memory serves me correctly I seem to remember this starting after installing the fridge (coolbox)

Indeed

I've just deliberately shorted the water pump cables to test the breaker. Just the water pump breaker tripped and no others.

Yeah, all breakers physically flicked themselves off

The batteries are far from their prime but I'm pretty sure they ain't dead yet... Last night I tried running all DC appliances at once drawing around 20 amps with no problem at all. Come to think of it we can run a 1000W belt sander from the Inverter without any issues on the DC side A short could be possible. How could I check that? Are you implying that when the DC supply voltage is so low the current will raise to satisfy the demands of the connected appliance beyond the rating of the breaker? Could a brief interruption of the positive supply also cause this?

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