floater

So why do i need a plug in, deck connection? Could i not just connect to an enclosure or even a rotary isolator. I could have a hook to coil up the cable when cruising. Surely a gland connection would be better than a plug in type?? Am i missing something?

3 phase as well.Shocking pictures

Looking into my shore hook up point. According to the iso the typical industrial/carvan commando socket is not suitable as only rated to IP44 11.1 Conductor connections shall be in locations protected from the weather or in IP 55 enclosures, in accordance with IEC 60529, as a minimum. Connections above deck exposed to intermittent immersion shall be in IP 67 enclosures, in accordance with IEC 60529, as a minimum. I don't want to make a secondary enclosure for the Commando socket So should i run to: 1. ip65 enclosure or rotary isolator - Permanent connection 2. IP56 house style socket with standard house plug (bs1363/a) 3. Don't have a connection at all, and have just the plug for connecting into shore point. (Of course the plug would be IP44)

If you have a twin circuit calorifier and radiators on the htg circuit then you could run the heating pump to remove "some" heat from the calorifier and therefore engine. I've just skimmed the posts so something like this may have been mentioned. Edit: for realism

engine compartment bulkhead and greytankfurther fwd hydralic ram, engine tank, rudder gland greaser, emergency tiller Additional upright for engine bearers Hydralic ram, emergency tiller, fuel drain Port engine bearer looking forward Through weed hatch & seal

Some more pics. Air Gap above bearers Ballast and floor bearer Typical insulation thickness Battery tray & starboard swim tank below with outlet feed to port swim tank. grey pipe Grey tank, bateery tray, swim tanks and connecting pipe Framing details: Hull Frames 8mm 1 x L section Stringer (longitudal) Knees (verticals)@670mm ctrs. Floor frames 670mm ctrs 8mm thick uprights and cross piece tac welded to make T’s. Superstructure 5mm plate Cabin framing - None Roof - 450mm ctrs rectangular channel 2” horizontal x 1 ½” vertical Engine 90hp 3.8ltr beta Tanks Split fuel 700ltr each, black to port fwd of midship, fresh at bow So where t start! First job will be treating the timber floor bearers and ply with cuprinol. I might also remove ballast for waxoyl and to add some kind of barrier between floor and ballast (to prevent rubbing and improve drainage) Might use denso tape, 1mm twin and earth cable (at diagonals) or roofing felt Still on the mend at the moment so won't be for a few weeks

Your opinions please What should i lay under the ballasts to assist drainage and prevent rubbing of bottom plate. 1mm second hand (not free but pretty cheap) twin and earth cable at diagonals to bricks held down by cloth tape? roofing felt? Should i use waxoyl to resist rusting? What should i treat timber floor bearers and ply with? Cuprinol trade wood preserver? It's a thick bottom plate so i'm not too concerned about corrosion however this is the only time i'll get chance to do anything like this Thanks for your time

I've a few question for those electrical installers out there, hope you can help. These all relate to my fit out which will start soon I believe Arctic Grade 3183AG cable is typically used for low voltage (230v) installation. Is this what is required by ISO's (International Organization for Standardization) Can i use standard flex? Internally. What should i use for ELV (24v/12v) I plan to use standard single' 6491X in 20/25mm pvc conduit. Would this be the most efficient carrier of current (due to maximum heat loss) Is the new ELV wiring brn+ grey-? Is there any standards for identifying 230v, 24v, 12v cables? Whats the best compact method for joining ELV cables on the branch off

No i managed to get inside, where your boat was. Your in the water now. (floating on the water) Congrats

Got delivered today at Bristol Marina. Can't get on and have a look around though because of my broken ankle. Looked through the window like a kid looking into a sweet shop. The wife took a few picture's i'll post soon. Got delivered by Baber transport Bristol - Did a great job. Have to wait for the break to fix now. Not good as i can see myself spending loads buying tool online

Sound's like a weapon dick dastardly might have fitted to his boat. As we'll be most likely pumping the water in , through the heat exchanger and out again then the minimum outlet temperature of the water would have to be above freezing, so it won't be a problem. It could be a problem if i used an undersized skin tank, however i think i'd have problem's on the boat first. also as the cooling capacity will be around 6 kw it wouldn't be possible to freeze a large volume. (like having a small heater in a big room) I'd be interested to know more about your setup. (Kw capacity, design parameters, installer, equipment used, manufacturer of equipment)

I'm residential and will be on shore hook up. I normally use a 2 kw electric convection heater except when <0.c outside then i switch to the kabola. For my larger new boat, a 60 x 12'6" barge, i'd plan on about 6 kw heating/cooling. Possibly using 2 compressors in stages to allow control and reduce high torque loads from compressor start up. I'd also be able to run the system when cruising from my 24v 100 amp alternator (Probably by limiting a compressor). Possibly through inverter if the compressors end up being 230v. (i appreciate this will be less efficient and therefore subject to losses) I'd also have a solid fuel and possibly small 2nd hand 5kw eberspacher on board for when not on shore power or if the unit fails due to poor design Thanks for the info. I'll chase it up and see if any data is available. I'm only toying with the idea at the moment and it'll be a while before i design it, if i do. Although i dont fancy paying the crazy fuel and £3K+ unit costs for marine diesel heaters especially due to the relative poor efficiency.

The surrounding water would receive heat when in cooling and provide heat when in heating via some kind of heat exchanger possibly either skin tank or raw water (depending on min temp). Also needed are compressor(s) expansion valves and indoor heat exchanger and a 4 way valve plus other refrigeration equipment and controls. It would probably make a very efficient system with a COP (coefficient of performance) of 3-4 i.e put in 1 kw get out 3-4kw. (depending on temperature difference.) Most ground source and water source heat pumps require a deep stable source. I could use air source but it might be a little noisey for the neighbours Minimum water temperature is required to find out the minimum evaporating temperature/pressure during heating Just in case your interested

Strange question, Any idea what the minimum water temperature would be approx 12"-18" deep? I'm guessing 1 to 5.c I'm looking into the possibly of building a water source heat pump for me new boat If not I'll measure it in a few months time

From Tony's description. To elaborate a little more. The compressor needs to be off for a short time after stopping to allow the suction and discharge pressures to equalise. Otherwise when the compressor starts it will be "loaded" and therefore require a larger starting torque in excess of the compressors capacity, so it cut's out on the safety. As Tony suggests increasing the set point may help so that the difference in temperature inside the fridge and outside the fridge is less. Therefore it will run less and hopefully start less. Possibly a new stat might help. Ideally the fridge would have timed delay for the compressor to prevent cycling I'm assuming the storage temperature is fine I try to avoid working on domestic fridges as much as possible because there so poxy